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Originally Posted by zz28zz
(Post 4762062)
Understand same heads and block for 10 years. I'd still lay the old head gasket over the head and block just to make sure head gasket isn't partially blocking the drainback holes.
Was the same manuf/part # head gasket used on all the "bad" builds? If so, maybe a bad batch got released? Is oil pressure significantly higher than it was before this issue started? Anything replaced in the valve train that could increase oil flow to rockers, like lifters or push rods? Oil pressure is slightly higher now, but around the same at idle and cruise. Old engine at 65psi. The last 80 of i remember correctly, do many builds lol. Same lifters and rockers. Different push rods. |
Originally Posted by BillK
(Post 4762082)
Just want to say that the last hone picture "looks" fine to me, maybe even "rougher" than what Ii end up with. But its hard to say with a picture. Like I said earlier most modern rings want a pretty "smooth" finish and rarely have a problem sealing.
1st C3-A55 220 grit 2nd C30-J65 280 grit 2-3 strokes Finish 320 brush 2 strokes It sounds like the hone is what I wanted. Definitely rougher than last 4. We both thought it looked like a 400 finish. Just very cautious with everything that has happened. Bill whats your opinion on the Total Seal AP stainless top ring? Hard on the cylinder? Hard to seal? Need rougher finish to work? |
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...11fbaac60b.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ef523fc661.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...aa78a79815.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0d08af5f13.jpg Had someone else look over the heads this weekend. Couldn't believe the amount of oil everywhere. Honestly, when I pulled the engine and disassembled it back in August, I put everything away and haven't really looked at it. It appears that all 8 exhaust ports have a stream of oil coming from guide/valve. You can see the trail on all 8. Valve seals were what was on there for 3 of the builds and have been replaced. Last builder changed the intake seal to a different type. Yesterday new eyes said they appear too tight and weren't sitting on the valve right. Than was looking closely at the oil trail in exhaust port. Checked to see if valve guides were loose in head, didn't appear to be. Guides are the same, never changed. I agree with what was stated earlier that the oil seems to be coming from above. Don't know how but thinking it is something with the turbos. No smoke on dyno running n/a (put camera down spark plug holes. To of pistons looked perfect). Put in car and starts smoking. 1st time took 125 miles to show up. Later builds faster and faster. Any ideas on how the turbos could be causing this issue? Turbos don't appear to be leaking. Bone dry. Exhaust ports from one head. Other looks similar. |
Originally Posted by underpsi68
(Post 4762278)
Old engine had Felpro MLS. Last 4 (new) builds all used Cometic MLS- replaced each time with 2 different thicknesses (.005 difference) . I don't have old block of old Felpro gasket to look at but I am ordering Felpro for this next, hopefully last build. The Cometic hg i have lines up with the head drain back. The new Dart block drain back hole is slightly off. I wish I had old block to check how it lined up.
Oil pressure is slightly higher now, but around the same at idle and cruise. Old engine at 65psi. The last 80 of i remember correctly, do many builds lol. Same lifters and rockers. Different push rods. I'd try to "gasket match" the drain-back holes if mis-aligned. You had stated issue happened once at 1800 RPM in the driveway. Doesn't sound like oil press increased much at that RPM. Got a pic of head gasket on the Dart block showing mis-alignment of oil drain-back holes? Do you still have the old Cometic MLS head gasket to check hole alignment with? |
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e25db6b2c4.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...95f02bbb69.jpg
Originally Posted by zz28zz
(Post 4762287)
So oil burning issues started when switching to Dart block? (not sure if I'm following the progression properly)
I'd try to "gasket match" the drain-back holes if mis-aligned. You had stated issue happened once at 1800 RPM in the driveway. Doesn't sound like oil press increased much at that RPM. Got a pic of head gasket on the Dart block showing mis-alignment of oil drain-back holes? Do you still have the old Cometic MLS head gasket to check hole alignment with? Happened in first 3 builds with old block. Thought we found issue after 3rd build where the 2 turbo drains where draining into the crank weights. Changed oil pan and drain location and bought new dart block, crank and rods. Rear drain is the centered one |
And how large are your turbo oil drains ? Lengthy thread. Sorry if mentioned.
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Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4762319)
And how large are your turbo oil drains ? Lengthy thread. Sorry if mentioned.
-10 drains |
Well, if you are 100% sure they drain over oil level in pan, i’d clkean oil out of ports, get some oil dye and run it for a few miles anyway and go looking.
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Forgive me but I'm not sure what the dye will do? Oil is everywhere. I'm sure I'm missing something.
Engine is completely apart now. Has to be reassembled. Am ready for it but would like to find something. This is build #5. Not sure if there is a #6. Lol -10 female bungs welded in each side on the kickout. Rear sump holds 7 qts (I measured). Pan has a pretty large front sump to clear the Ford front mounted oil pump. Than the filter holds almost a qt. Oil level by where drains return is definitely below. Engine runs 7qts of oil. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...80e1b6f3aa.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5b6f3d461c.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ddff286574.jpg |
Originally Posted by underpsi68
(Post 4762280)
Bill whats your opinion on the Total Seal AP stainless top ring? Hard on the cylinder? Hard to seal? Need rougher finish to work? The die might have shown a trail through an intake gasket or somewhere else where oil should not have been. |
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