The 9.1 doesn't have keyways...it uses press fit and a torque to yield bolt system.

Aligning the balancer to put back on thr crank may be a PITA if you didn't align the engine to TDC on #1.

After reviewing, I don't think going with standard balancers would workout. Too much work/cost.

Getting a GM balancer with twin belt pulleys is one option, and incorprate a separate water pump with a separate belt.

Obviously, mae sure it fits and aligns etc. But this isn't an easy task to be don with the engine installed.

Used os your best bet now.

*** I think you mentioned you damaged your current balancer pulling it off? So cleaning up the pulley (wire wheel etc) and using it isn't an option?

I initially used a 3 prong gear puller. I placed the prongs on the outside behind the damper. After cranking down the bolt to remove, the damper partially pulled forward separating about 1/8-1/4”. Since this can cause vibrations. I didn’t want to take any chances.

I agree a used one is best.

No I did not mark it when removed. I expected a keyway.

Engine is out and block at machine shop for decking, bore, hone, new forged pistons/rods balanced. I pick it up tomorrow.

I asked machine shop about possibly externally balancing with a new balancer and he said not necessary since balancers are “neutral”. Said I can assemble and add damper later.

The damper is 8” and pulley is 6”.

I’ve searched eBay, Craigslist, placed WTB ads on here, THT, and another forum. Also sent emails to marine junkyards with no responses. Even sent an email of a damper rebuilder. Never heard of such a thing. No response.

ATI says they don’t have anything that fits my application.

if I didn’t care about the serpentine belt dust all over the engine and engine bay within a few hours of a new one, I’d would have left it alone. But, eventually a belt would have broken before I changed it.

Installing a merc type belt driven pump is VERY VERY low on my “how to fix this” list. More modifications need to made to accommodate the extra bracket and new pump location. Fuel cell, HE, along with related hose etc would need to be relocated and rerouted.

I would reach out to John. He is a 8.1 guru.

Boats Unlimited 817.658.7721

Re; No Balancer/crank keyway.
I don't see why eliminating a simple alignment system would be a thing to do. Maybe I'm missing something.

8.1L Vortecs have a neutral balance on the front of the engine?

The way I see removing the alignment key is EFI vs distributor. With the distributor, you needed to know your timing marks on the balancer (keyed). New school, timing marks are not needed due to the crank and cam shaft position sensors. Hence, balancers are neutrally balanced and can go anyway when not needing timing marks.

Again...I'm am no expert here. Just learning as I go.

Super knowledgeable but did not have anything for me. Said to call back in a week and he might have something. Says he may be developing an aftermarket piece but that is at least 6 months out.

I also called Raylar and he said, put the old one back on and deal with the dust and change out the belt more often. No real solution.

Still looking for a used VP Damper. May end up taking the old one to a machinist and see if they can fix the pulley grooves. Lathe?

A large jaw chuck may be able to grab on to it. It really just needs some sandpaper carefully folded to read between the grooves. Evaporust in a small tray just to fit the pulley portion would deal with the rust. Oxidation is harder, and sharper etc. Once it's gone, cleaning up the metal would be easier. Stainless wire brush would go a long way. Steel wool/green scrubbies always an option for light rust removal.

I suspect if you get the rust off, the belts will polish the pulley a little. Reduce the shaving anyway.

I thought you had pulled the outer ring off the elastomer a bit?

Good ideas. I appreciate the tips.

Yes. I did pull the outer ring forward a bit. I found a guy that rebuilds dampers. About the same cost as new…$450. I may have to bite that bullet if a good used one doesn’t turn up in the next week.

Evaporust did help quite a bit. Knocked off the rust overnight. Still rough on the fingers. Not sandpaper rough but you can feel it's not smooth. Used a stainless brush to work it a bit more. Wish I had a way to spin it. Then I could apply even pressure with sand paper, steel wool or similar to try to smooth it out further. Still no hits on used. Called salvage yards, have WTB ads on here a 2 other forums, ebay, etc... Boats Unlimited said to call em back in a week and he may have something. I'll try that. If that falls thru, then I'll send it to rebuild the damper portion at a tune of $450. Price of new....except its NLA.

New Starter is in, New Mancavemechanic fuel cell on. Oil cooler is on.

Only thing left to do is push rods when the arrive, install the SS Marine Mainfolds, prime, intake run it.

I don't have risers yet. Can't order the risers from SS Marine until the engine is in the boat to get exact measurements. I don't have the old manifolds and risers....they were complete trash....so to the scrappers they went. How can I run the engine without the risers......while on a stand? the flow of water that would go into the riser, can I just simply dump (raw water side) and run the manifold dry. Will I hurt anything? Or is there a better way?

Assuming closed cooling in the manifolds, raw water to the risers, you should be fine to just dump that raw water on the ground if running without the risers on the stand.