PM me your price ICDEAD. Awesome.

PS: I won't be ready to use it any time soon either but do like to have my ducks in a row. lol Tons of rigging to do because now everything changes.

My price is free, just throw me some money for shipping.

Yep, I could definitely add some horror story experiences to that.

I have innovate gauges in my dash two sensors per engine

I went the gauge route too. I was going to use the handheld, but I'd like to catch issues as they come about. Cheap insurance.

I had it mounted on the dash

Just as a side note, my HP and Torque numbers match @5250 so according to Alexi my dyno sheet is legit. Good info here.

Yeah that because HP is just calculated from torque and RPM and 5252 is a constant in the equation.

The biggest bullshot I see on posted Dyno sheets is the uncorrected vs corrected power. I don’t like to see huge correction factors. A Dyno operator could play around with where the ambient temperature is measured to get the formula to spit out a big correction.

Ideally you could hold the right temps and not use correction factors at all.

Someone on yellowbullet posted a sheet from a well known builder that measured like 70ish actual HP less than the corrected number. He claimed Dyno room ambient temperature was over 90 F. The factor was like 7-10%. I would not be happy about that at all! If it were me that builder would be getting a serious grilling. Dude needs to re-engineer his facility if he’s not just intentionally measuring a higher temp somewhere.

Before owning and operating a dyno I used to be more critical of any CF over 5 % BUT 3 to 7% is the norm at my location for Cf using J607, our D/A is usually around 2200 to 3000 (were starting at 700 feet elevation), a D/A of sub 1000 here is a miracle and our weathers not that bad really so now I view it a little different. IF all dyno shops would agree to dyno using SAE1349, that would be a start. Now, my intake air temp measured AT TB or CARB is usually aroujnd 80 to 90 degrees,as high as 95/100 in hottest parts of summer. When I build my dyno cell it will be a little better BUT without a GIANT refrigerated roof top unit wont be alot better in summer time IF any. Most boats see IAT of at least 90 if not higher so theres NOTHING wrong with tuning with IAT in 80 to 100 range for a typical marine engine in a closed engine compartment. As the ACTUAL IAT goes up , observed power goes DOWN, as IAT adjust the CF higher and higher, you start to see some deviation in error of CF vs observed but your talking about 1% or less.
NOW, lets NOT confuse a actual IAT of lets say 90 degrees and the reflected CF vs a FALSELY inflated CF where ACTUAL IAT was lets say 85 and dyno operator layed probe on intake to get a IAT of lets say120 and the subsequent inflated CF to make a pretty piece of paper.
Some people who have never owned or operated a dyno view correction factors as "bs" or "evil" BUT using a CF is the ONLY way to get relevant comparison data as conditions change over course of several days. Now, when I have done some extensive carb testing sessions (we tested MULTIPLE carbs on same engine), we did "same day, same dyno", CF stayed between 3.5 and 4 that day.
For the un-educated, here is a example of a "correct" C/F :
Hogie roll builds a EFI 509, day 1 of dyno at end of day motor makes 600 corrected hp, observed was 582, DDA was lets say 1000 and CF was 3%
Day 2, 1st pull of morning, no changes (how I like to do it sometimes), motor makes 600 corrected hp, observed was 555, DDA was lets say 2800 and CF was 8%
Heres were the CF shows its importance: without it, using strictly observed power, day 2 we'd all be scratching our heads wondering how we lost power with no changes.
Here's where CF's get MANIPULATED, some engine builder "promises" a number, the motor don't reach that number, IAT gets artificially inflated to "boost" numbers, now our 555 hp observed motor gets corrected to lets say 620. In end, dyno is a tool to do changes and tuning to find gains, best parts, etc so the biggest thing is finding INCREASES in those numbers as you make subsequent pulls. Its funny, Ive dynoed engines that we found 90 hp in tune and Ive dynoed engines (once rings were seated) that ended making same power they started at.
Now, final thing Im going to touch on about dynoing, lets say MR Hogie Roll lives in Florida, between humidity and air temp DDA is 3000 80% of most boating days, Mr roll builds a CARBED 509 for his inboard V-hull, brings it to "old boy racing dyno INC', old boy says "well, ya boat down here in this hell hole most time right? MR Roll says yep,. So ol boy been around the block, he didnt build the motor so he really dont give 2 fuks about how much OVERALL power it makes in end BUT since hes getting payed, hes gonna make sure it makes all it can. so, dyno session proceeds, motors making lets say 530 observed/580 corrected, DA is 2800. Ol boy seats rings, finds optimum timing , motors now making 550 observed/600 corrected. Now, he starts carb tuning and he knows mr Roll is more of a set it and forget it kinda guy, he'd rather be driving his boat then carrying a jet kit with him and spilling gas all over the motor while his GF or Wife gets irritated. So Ol boy starts working his magic on carb calibration, he cleans up the tune and makes it IDEAL for that 2800-3200 DA that mr Roll typically boats in, including a IAT of 90 degrees since thats the best his boat may ever see in summer. THOSE jetting/ bleed changes get hime to 575 observed and 625 corrected. Mr Roll slaps that biotch in his boat and away he goes, hauling azz and burning gas.
Now, lets say he dynoed with "whizbang racing", whiz bang spent a million dollars on their dyno cell, Mr roll tells him "I want ZERO CF", so Mr whiz bang turns his 500 ton roof top on and sets IAT at 60 degrees in cell. Thru carb work and tuning, he gets the 509 to make 630 corrected AND observed hp. Mr Roll takes engine home , slaps that BIOTCH in his boat, its 85 out, 80% humdity, DDA is 3200, his powers DOWN 9% over dyno from air density alone BUT because the tune is way off, pig rich , powers down a EXTRA 7% so now, his actual, in the boat hp is more like 525 hp, hes pizzed, 20 k in this pile of **** and its 1 mph faster than old hp 500, so, hope this little story helps educate those not real familiar with dynos how this all works, Smitty