To make things clear............this thread is NOT about trashing anybody. It is about correcting any and all mistakes that were made BEFORE this engine grenades'. Bob M treated me fairly and answered my questions, my only bone to pick would be misleading me about his relationship with the builder. Now the builder on the other hand treated me very unfairly and did not do the things he agreed to and acted as though everything was top secret. I'll let it at that.
1. Dyno was to be a test and tune.
2.$500.00 for dyno rental is all it says on my bill.
3. He told me he changed some jetting. Still have the cards from Quickfuel so I'll verify. Springs were also changed in my distributer for timing curve.
4. Was told I had a stout little motor there and couldn't get out the door quick enough to go to lunch.
5. Yes, header tube size/dry tails as well as many other details were discussed. I have no record or evidence of the lifters that were used. Not Bobs fault but the other guy for not doing what he agreed to. I wanted to trust him but also wanted at least visual verification of what parts actually were in my engine. (I've read all the horror stories) Target horsepower was to be a reliable 850hp no chiller for now. Stout parts.

I'm a brutally honest man Smitty and still believe in honor. I've run across many in my years who don't recognize either word.

850 is a great goal for a blown 509 boat engine. All I’d do is spend the money to have it re-dyno’d/TUNED. Be cheap insurance!!! Then go boat and have fun and I sincerely hope you do.

That is the goal my friend.

I also think it is a good stout build. Do you have O2's in you pipes? After all of our concerns and arm chair dynoing. (I'm guilty) You put your marine exhaust on and it knocks it down 1+ points AFR and you are in the area of 11.8 of consensus for target AFR.

Tails not built yet but yes that is my intention. Plan is to get Teague to build them as well as his opinion dry or will dry to the tip be okay with that cam. That's good to know and kind of reflects what Mike Tkach told me about engines tending to richen up in the boat. Thank you for your honest input.

I'd do dry to the tip and use an O2 extender. I used some cheap ebay extenders on Smitty's dyno and they didn't have any effect on AFR readings. I have dry to the tip on my Scarab and they were obnoxious. I was able to run Shotguns and quiet them down considerably when idling, then I bought switchable mufflers. I would not want dry.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17470051266...3ABFBMvOeTvbdf

I bought a set of GGB's to knock some bark out of it. Hope that's enough with dry pipes or dry to the tips.

Thats my consensus, put it in the boat,get the AFRs into mid 11s max at wot and sub 12 at any measurable boost , check color on plugs and be boating!

After verifying some things for my own peace of mind, I will do just that. Thanks for your input.

Let's Go Brandon!

Ordered a set Rookie.