Originally Posted by Brad Christy

Griff,

Completely agree on the ECM. My only interest is in the potential that I might have indicated a 5lb boost system to Whipple, on my tune request form, instead of the 3lb that the ProCharger kit I’ve got actually is, just as I did in my initial post. I can’t remember if I was thinking wrong then as I did here. I just wanted to be sure. In the meantime, I am, in fact, working to resolve the core issue.

I don’t think I’m going to have to change the idler pulley tensioner. I just tried changing the belt, and couldn’t get the tensioner off the belt enough to even come close to getting it off the pulley. That mother is STRONG. Now my only concern is the pulley itself. I’m wondering it it’s not what caused the wear groove on the non-working side of the belt. I’ve checked and rechecked. Nothing else is touching the non-grooved side of the belt. I need to get a longer breaker bar and enlist a second set of hands.

So…. No violent lurch, swerve or attempt to roll should be expected when/if I kill the key at throttle? I’m assuming the prop will free-spin with the oncoming water?

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Originally Posted by Brad Christy

Guys,


Next comes the compression test. I picked up a remote starter switch. Now I gotta find the starter...... God, that's gonna be a PITFA......😡

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Originally Posted by Brad Christy

Guys,

Got the belt changed. Had to make a cheater bar for the breaker bar, and had my nephew hold the tensioner off the belt while I changed it. Only dropped the breaker bar into the bilge once.




It certainly looks like something was rubbing on the outside of the belt, but I'm positive there wasn't. This doesn't mean there wasn't something rubbing on it in the past, before we bought the boat.

This doesn't look like a ton of wear on the belt, but I don't really know what to look for. There is some glazing in the valleys, at the bottom of the Vs, so that could be an indicator that the Vs themselves were worn to that point. The new belt was considerably tighter getting back on the pulleys. The old one came off with the tensioner still pulled back. Getting the new one on required relaxing the tensioner, getting the belt over the rims of the pulleys AND over the tensioner, then pushing the belt to the side, pulling the tensioner, working the belt around it, then releasing the tensioner while ensuring the belt was still between the rims of the pulleys.

Next comes the compression test. I picked up a remote starter switch. Now I gotta find the starter...... God, that's gonna be a PITFA......😡

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy

Why is that belt so tight ? I can take my whipple belts off with a 1/2 ratchet..........I have 3 or 4 used marine BBC starters if your interested

Originally Posted by DrFeelgood

Maybe someone was trying to remedy a belt slippage issue with more tension?

Originally Posted by SB

Your engine doesn't have the remote starter solenoid ?
(#11) https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/.../31823/6708/30
Pic below

Originally Posted by SB

Your engine doesn't have the remote starter solenoid ?
(#11) https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/.../31823/6708/30
Pic below

Originally Posted by Brad Christy

SB,

OK. So, I think I found that little unit. I'll have to pull the top cover off the engine to verify and obviously to use it. So.... How does one actually use it? Is it the actual starter solenoid? Or is it a bypass solenoid, in place simply for diagnostic purposes? I'm looking for wiring diagrams, and finding PLENTY of them, but none specific to Mercruiser, near as I can tell.

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Originally Posted by Griff

Just pull the kill switch lanyard and turn the key. Most kill switch lanyards don't cut power to the starter