Oil temp/cooler setup questions
 

So after finally being able to run my boat pretty hard I realized quickly my oil cooler setup is nowhere near big enough. I am pulling the motor this winter anyway and I'm looking for opinions on my plans.

Motor is a 540 with 14-71 roots blower at 5 lbs running fuel injection. I found that if I run hard like 5K plus my oil temp jumps up to around 240 within 1/2 mile at most and I have to get out of it. My oil temp sensor is in my oil pan to see the best I can what's actually coming through the engine.

Current setup is a 7 qt oil pan and the stock oil cooler/thermostatic filter setup that came on my 525SC that was original to the boat.

Here's my questions....

I'm looking at the gen 5 hardin setup that claims it's for 1000 hp which I'm a little above that but thinking it may work?? Comes with a 3x24 cooler, filter head, filter adapter, and lines. My big question is should I go thermostatically controlled or non? Not sure if it will hinder its performance at all with the restriction of the thermostat??

Next question...being I'm pulling the motor to fix an oil leak either from the front main or oil pan...should I jump up to a larger oil pan? Like a 12-14 qt pan? I'm sure it will help with the cooling but damn those things are expensive for what they are!! If it's neede3d then it is what it is but if it's a waste of money I'll keep what I have.

I am also open to other options beyond the Hardin kit was just what I found. Any suggestions would be appreciated thanks!!

Stewart

I would definitely run a larger pan. More oil will help with temps. i see your from colder water temp area, Unless your having condensation problems a thermo wouldn't be needed. I am on the low end of knowledge on here but if i had the engine out i would definatly opt for a larger pan. How big are you lines running to the cooler?
Take pics and post. There are people on here that are near genius status (not me ) good luck

Oil lines are the stock merc lines....I transferred the whole system over from the 525SC...rubber lines probably 1/2-3/4 whatever they are, stock black cooler, and the black metal box that the filter/thermostat are in with the yellow "caution hot" sticker. I assumed at some point I would need to upgrade and that point is now hahahaha. Planning to go to probably -8 or -10 AN for the oil lines with all black fittings/hose so it matches everything else. As far as cooler water...I mainly run in lake michigan and if it gets to 80 its a HOT summer so yea pretty cool water. I did notice a little bit of milky oil in the puke tank but nothing that concerned me and the oil in the motor still looks new with 10 hours on it.

Thanks for the reply!

Stewart

Run a thermostat. Cold oil can be just as detrimental to an engine as hot oil. Condensation in cold climates like you are in is one concern, but just getting the oil up to temp (180) before loading the engine will drastically extend the life of the engine. You could probably get away without a larger pan, but the larger pan also reduces windage by getting all the oil further away from the rotating assembly, which keeps foaming / aerating down too. The benefits of more oil and better oil control outweigh a premature rebuild for wiped bearings.

Makes a lot of sense....that being said...my system as stated above I don't think was working properly anyway...I would idle out which is about a half hour of idle time to the lake and my oil temp gauge which starts at 140 would not move until I bumped it up and cruised a little. I was always under the impression that it should come up like a water thermostat would even at idle?? I believe the stock merc thermostat is 160 degree but I may be wrong on that?

Any suggestions for a cooler besides the hardin one? I'm also thinking of just getting a cooler, filter head, and adapter with making my own lines instead of that whole kit...may save me some money in the end??

Stewart

1/2 hour? dang. When you say 'idle' is that at idle, or just above? I always bump mine up to at least 800-1k RPM. It raises the oil pressure, and keeps the drive coupler from prematurely wearing out. I don't bring it up on plane until engines are at least 140+

Mine idles around 850-900 and it usually stays there for most of the idle time and maybe slightly above for some of it. That was my concern and being my gauge starts at 140 and I have a what I believe to be a 160 degree oil thermostat in it I figured I would see something on the gauge even when idling but I don't see the needle move till I get out of the no wake and slowly bring it up to 15-1700 for a min or so and it will start moving. Oil pressure is 70-75 at idle cold and drops to 35-40 when warm and idling.

Stewart

Go with -12 lines and get rid of all stock parts, block adapter/filter head. They are way restrictive.

Copy that..what would you recommend for replacements? Is the hardin stuff any better? I've bought a lot of stuff from them and some has been hit or miss. I'd only like to do this once so if I have to spend a little more on the front end to not have to redo it I for sure will hahaha. Also where do you stand on the thermostat portion?

Everybody says run a thermostat. I have Hardin stuff and very happy with everything I buy there.
As for sizing try contacting Ron Sporl Performance (member here on OSO) he is a big HP Blower motor guy/builder. He also stocks and sells Hardin products. He knows his stuff, currently located in Bessemer, AL.
Good Luck