My 1150 Potters with 14-71's have these and -10 lines.

Teague Custom Marine | Dual Oil Cooler Bell Housing

Right on...I have no way of mounting those as I have a bravo setup...well IMCO but same difference

Teague Custom Marine | High Performance Engine Oil Cooler

There is this option from teague.....not cheap but if I need it I need it I suppose??

Stock T stat in a 525SC is 140*

Probably explains why I wasn't seeing oil temp on my gauge at idle since it starts at 140 hahaha

Surprised you`re not getting oil aeration of the oil and dropping oil pressure.
7qt is not enough. Definitely lose the pan or modify but a deper pan would be best if you`re swinging a 4.25 crank.
Not sure what a stock set up looks like but couldn`t you just add a round secondary oil cooler without redoing everything? In series?
I run -12AN lines. id upgrade whatever is there , seems undersized

Kinda where I'm at...just get rid of it all and replace....Have another thread started about the blower as well...finally got her running with most of the kinks worked out so time to start replacing more things hahaha

I just went through the small block version of this. I had the engine apart and found the inside diameter of the oil pump feed lines and used that as a guide. Using some logic I have seen in OSO I made sure to use smooth bends a bigger oil pan and a high volume pump. I bought an adapter to take off the oil at the engine pad and put a thermostatic sandwich there which fed a big block cooler and also routed the oil to a remote mount just in front of my port riser. I used -10AN (5/8" id) which is fine for my NA small block.
It never gets hot enough to drop pressure now, my oil pressure used to take a dive at idle after a bit of running over 4k rpms. And Ot runs warm enough that there's clear oil without any water emulsified in it.
My stuff is nice in that it's modular and I can repair and replace individual bits. But that Hardin adapter with thermostat looks like a great piece.
Fragola makes a temperature and oil resistant push lock line that can be used. It's supposed to not need clamps but I chickened out and did the Oettinger clamps. Those are the one-time use clamps like you see on a car cv boot.
OP if you decide to do your own be sure to check all your fit clearances. I was so hot to put mine together that I didn't leave enough space for my hatch actuator. So I had to move my remote filter mount inward a couple of inches after the motor was back in my boat. Thankfully I was able to keep the same lines and just fabricate a bracket to go a little bit to starboard.

NHguy, rule of thumb is 10 psi oil pressure per 1000 rpm is adequate per GM. Although we would like at a touch higher. Mine runs 12-14 psi idling right after a long hard run.

The cleaner looking oil running at higher temps is worth a million bucks to that motor. If it has no brown(not milkly either) look, and not as much of an acidic (typical boat oil) smell, that's great for thee engine and you are good to go..

Very informative guys thank you!!