jbraun2828

question… based off some of your other threads, are your engines out at your engine builder? If so why not have your builder install this along with the water line you were looking for in another thread? I’m from grand haven as well and would love to know who you are using. I’ve been around for a while and probably know whoever it is. Good luck with everything!

PQ290Enticer

jbraun, My engines are not at the builder's shop. I don't know which post it was but after my meeting with him, I am comfortable with the builds and will be running them "as is". I won't say who the builder is, at least not until there's an outcome from the upcoming season whether it's a great year or huge failure. If I posted his company name now (based on a consensus that there will be a failure) he and his shop would be sent through the "ringer" even though there hasn't been a failure on his part. Just doesn't seem fair to me. I noticed that another member won't post his builder's name either. He had a successful build but is wondering if they did all they said they did. Thanks for your comment.

GLENAMY 242SS

iTrader: (1)

That fitting is for a gauge not a sensor/sending unit

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

The sender needs to go into the pan or a port on the remote filter housing. Do not put in an any of the fittings. You will create a blockage trying to do it this way.

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

Gary, I know I owe you a call! Will try later this weekend.

GLENAMY 242SS

iTrader: (1)

Here is where I mounted mine on the oil filter housing (Merc.)
Also a pic of my water hose you were asking about.

PQ290Enticer

Hey Tom, I know my location in the pan is too high and I also thought that locating it in the remote filter housing (at least for me) is after the oil has been cooled so really not the reading I should be looking for?
GLENAMY, if I buy a fitting designed for a sending unit, is it still an obstruction as shown in my pic using the wrong adapter?

GLENAMY 242SS

iTrader: (1)

You need to plumb oil so hot oil is filtered then go to the cooler. This makes for my location to be correct.
If you are serious, you should throw away the stock filter mount and get a Hardin with minimum 3/4" fittings. The stock ones have about a 3/8" ID opening and an ID of the hose fitting are very restrictive.
Just do it right, forget trying to short cut the proven process.

HEMTT

I'll try this again my last post I can't see.

I drove a 38' Scarab in the late 80's and after just a few minutes of moderately hard running, the oil temps were pegged a 330+. My TR's and 400 Cyclones in my Cobalt 300 Condurre had coolers built into the bell housings, quite large ones in fact. One was for engine oil, the other for transmission using full raw water flow. When I converted to Arneson ASD6's I plumbed both bell-housing coolers to the engine oil, a separate one for the transmission. Gone were high oil temps . . . Plus I added ram water pickups, not those easily clog-able boundary layer pickups on the stern. My sea strainers only ever got busy with the stock pickups, the ram pickups seemed to cut the kelp and leave it in the wake.

I agree with Glen, you need 3/4" or bigger oil cooler lines, a 3/8" will NOT cut it.

PQ290Enticer

I'll check my oil filter block. I assume you are correct and it has the 3/8" fittings. I can order the one from Hardin I suppose. I am trying to do it right. The installation instructions put the line from the engine block directly to the cooler then to the filter and back to the block. Are a lot of guys filtering the oil before the cooler? Other guys are taking their reading from the line to the cooler. I just ordered the wrong fitting and have now ordered a proper in line fitting for a sending unit so I hope that works out.