We hurt the 496....
#542
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From: SW Ohio
No. This is the "Transom Harness":

The two bullet connecters are labled "Trim Limit", and have matching connecters at the transom plate. Also at the transom plate is a 3-wire connecter that matches the 3-wire connecter in this pic.
I have all that stuff in the kit you spec'd, already installed. Has been since the boat was new. Maybe mine is "SmartCraft", and won't work with a direct wire to the dash....?
Understood on the grey, tan and black/brown wires.
Thanks. Brad.
Last edited by Brad Christy; 05-01-2025 at 11:05 AM.
#543
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From: SW Ohio
After a conversation with Merc tech, I have to order a new trim sender; the PN you spec'd. I'll have to either trace or run new wires from the dash to the transom and we should be off to the races. But this resolves the sender. How does the limit switch splice into it all?
Thanks. Brad.
#544
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From: York Haven, PA
AShipShow,
After a conversation with Merc tech, I have to order a new trim sender; the PN you spec'd. I'll have to either trace or run new wires from the dash to the transom and we should be off to the races. But this resolves the sender. How does the limit switch splice into it all?
Thanks. Brad.
After a conversation with Merc tech, I have to order a new trim sender; the PN you spec'd. I'll have to either trace or run new wires from the dash to the transom and we should be off to the races. But this resolves the sender. How does the limit switch splice into it all?
Thanks. Brad.
If you're no longer using your transom harness, you'll have to rummage around the bilge and find the wires coming back from the control at the helm and determine the wires that are used for trim control.

#545
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From: SW Ohio
This is how the limit switch works in the system.. When you push the up button, power flows through the purple/white wire through the trim limit switch and into the trim pump solenoid and so-on... If the drive is too high, the limit switch opens and won't allow the up button to work and you will have to use a trailer button to raise the drive further.
If you're no longer using your transom harness, you'll have to rummage around the bilge and find the wires coming back from the control at the helm and determine the wires that are used for trim control.

If you're no longer using your transom harness, you'll have to rummage around the bilge and find the wires coming back from the control at the helm and determine the wires that are used for trim control.

That's pretty much what I was guessing. Time to start digging....
Thanks. Brad.
#546
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From: SW Ohio
Guys,

Starboard side

Port side
OK. So which one’s which? I went in there expecting the 3-wire unit to be the sender. What gives….?
The TWO bullet connecters on the harness are labeled “trim limit”…..
Thanks. Brad.

Starboard side

Port side
OK. So which one’s which? I went in there expecting the 3-wire unit to be the sender. What gives….?
The TWO bullet connecters on the harness are labeled “trim limit”…..
Thanks. Brad.
#547
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From: SW Ohio
Guys,
It appears the unit labeled "SENDER", starboard side, had been replaced at some point, via solder and liquid tape. Conveniently, this allowed me to establish continuity between it and one of the two bullet connectors inside the transom. Does this mean I already HAVE the analog sender? Or are both the analog and digital senders "2-wire"? Additionally, is the limit switch a 3-wire? Have I been looking at it backwards the whole time? If so, why three wires for a switch?
Thanks. Brad.
It appears the unit labeled "SENDER", starboard side, had been replaced at some point, via solder and liquid tape. Conveniently, this allowed me to establish continuity between it and one of the two bullet connectors inside the transom. Does this mean I already HAVE the analog sender? Or are both the analog and digital senders "2-wire"? Additionally, is the limit switch a 3-wire? Have I been looking at it backwards the whole time? If so, why three wires for a switch?
Thanks. Brad.
#548
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From: SW Ohio
Guys,
I've also managed to trace a brown/white wire from the trim gauge, through the cannon plug, and it IS the brown wire hanging loose I referred to earlier. So, at least, I have figured out what to connect to the bullet connecter. I'm guessing the other one goes to ground? Like the oil temp sender I have wired in to the filter block?
Additionally, we established varying resistance through the sender as the actuator is rotated. Does THIS mean it is already an analog sender?
Thanks. Brad.
I've also managed to trace a brown/white wire from the trim gauge, through the cannon plug, and it IS the brown wire hanging loose I referred to earlier. So, at least, I have figured out what to connect to the bullet connecter. I'm guessing the other one goes to ground? Like the oil temp sender I have wired in to the filter block?
Additionally, we established varying resistance through the sender as the actuator is rotated. Does THIS mean it is already an analog sender?
Thanks. Brad.
#549
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From: SW Ohio
Guys,
Got new analog sender and limit switch in hand. Gonna go ahead and replace them both while I've got it apart.
Back to the issue that's got me bugged. I'm going to check for continuity between the trim/trailer switches and the solenoid before cutting anything, but.... Assuming there's a break in the "up" wire, for the purpose of the limit switch, somewhere between the rocker switch and the solenoid on the trim pump, that was NOT the limit switch itself (that was laced into the engine harness for god know whatever reason), and I cannot find it, I am feeling compelled to just rerun the two wires (trim "up" and trailer) from the trim rocker switch and the trailer switch back to the "up" solenoid. With whatever involvement the SmartCraft had in the process of limiting up trim gone, I can't see an issue with this. I don't see a reason to rerun the "down" wire, as it should just be straight through from the trim switch to the solenoid.
Am I on the right track?
Thanks. Brad.
Got new analog sender and limit switch in hand. Gonna go ahead and replace them both while I've got it apart.
Back to the issue that's got me bugged. I'm going to check for continuity between the trim/trailer switches and the solenoid before cutting anything, but.... Assuming there's a break in the "up" wire, for the purpose of the limit switch, somewhere between the rocker switch and the solenoid on the trim pump, that was NOT the limit switch itself (that was laced into the engine harness for god know whatever reason), and I cannot find it, I am feeling compelled to just rerun the two wires (trim "up" and trailer) from the trim rocker switch and the trailer switch back to the "up" solenoid. With whatever involvement the SmartCraft had in the process of limiting up trim gone, I can't see an issue with this. I don't see a reason to rerun the "down" wire, as it should just be straight through from the trim switch to the solenoid.
Am I on the right track?
Thanks. Brad.
#550
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From: York Haven, PA
Brad,
Yea, Apparently the smartcraft setup limited the trim using the 3 wire sender... Since you're ditching that sender and going with only analog and trim limit switch, its probably just worth running new wires straight to the helm per that picture I sent in post #544. I'm assuming you are removing the entire engine harness and using one for your specific setup so I don't know how using the existing transom harness would play out.. I'd just start from scratch for trim limit, or eliminate it all together.
Yea, Apparently the smartcraft setup limited the trim using the 3 wire sender... Since you're ditching that sender and going with only analog and trim limit switch, its probably just worth running new wires straight to the helm per that picture I sent in post #544. I'm assuming you are removing the entire engine harness and using one for your specific setup so I don't know how using the existing transom harness would play out.. I'd just start from scratch for trim limit, or eliminate it all together.



