My measurements were vertical. At the left and right 45 degrees there was on average 1-1.5 thousanths
more.

VP shop manual:

It seems this engine ***may*** have been worked on before. Some things I saw that’s appears that way.

Anyhow, I did have some corrosion on some
valves from salt reversion. I’ll have to look at my notes for #1 and 2 valves to remember what they looked like.

Heads are brand new from GM (bare). The machine shop moved over all the springs, valves, etc…new keepers new seals. We replaced 4 exhaust and 1 intake valve.

As of now, I don’t know the exact cause of the bent push rods.

I’ll get an adjustable push rod and go from there.

Do I need new lifters too now or will the new push rods mate with the old lifters no problem?

Used a dial bore and micrometer.

Generally marine engines with proper oiling don't have a lot of pushrod tip wear. Look at the old tips. If they're grg...then the lifter sockets should be as well.

Roller lifter wear is mostly on the rollers. If they appear to be clean and smooth...no pitting of lines etc...you should be ok if they spec out in the tolerances, and the hydraulic guts are clean etc.

The cam lobes will also let you know how the lifters are doing. Cutting corners here will not be a benefit.

Darin Morgan Quote:

If you run your main/rod bearings too tight, everyone will know. If you run them a bit loose, no one will know.

Engine oil cools the bearings. High pressure low flow = less cooling. MED high pressure high flow= lots of cooling. Tighter bearings restrict oil flow.

BMW perf V8 engines are running 0.0015" as a max tolerance on their rod bearings. They're spinning bearings. Some guys have set up shop just to do rod bearings on these before they have an issue.

M67 fragmentation grenade has a 4.5sec fuse. The spec is 4-5sec.

If you run that tight, all the machining and tolerances of everything else need to be in spec. Tolerance stacking to failure is an issue.

All the pushrods were well rounded, smooth, and polished. The tips look new. The machine shop the cam was good, didn't even recommend a polish on it. Rollers were all good, smooth, no marks, pitting etc. Again...those looked new as well.

I did not open the the lifters... simply cleaned them with diesel, soaked them in oil, and installed. Should I open them?

It doesn't take much time to disassemble 16x lifters. Just some care to not lose the parts and keep them all together for each lifter.

Any debris that has bypassed the filter will potentially be in the lifters.

If I was re'using lifters, I would take the time to clean them out. Easy win.

I have questions:
your machine shop bored block .030 over and I assumed decked block BUT left the cam bearings in, never removed them? What did they wash the block out with, doesn't look hot tanked, personally I would NEVER have any machining done to a block and leave used cam bearings in while machining ( metal can get trapped in feeds).
Your main bearing clearances are very tight, you may very well be fine at those specs IF crank is perfectly round BUT do NOT consider running a high volume pump of ANY SORT with those clearances or you will have crazy high oil pressure.
as far as the two bypasses near filter adapter, the center one thats considered a "anti drain back" is a restriction and I NEVER put it back in, the outer one is necessary and needs to be a gm 30 psi, dont make mistake of using a standard one or hot, unfiltered oil will bypass your cooler and filter. I also would question how clean the oiling system was cleaned with the center bypass still in its hole after all the machine work and "cleaning" was done.

At the last bits….

Ordered spark plug wires for the standard truck application. Those obviously did not fit. Does anyone have a standard spark plug wire recommendation? I prefer something like AC Delco or equivalent.

lmannyr,

John Mosetti, BoatsUnlimited in Texas, sells a really nice set of spark plug wires.

Thanks. Brad.

Read whole thread:
496 Mag Ho Spark Plug Wires