X dimension for 24
 

Going to place a bravo 1 outdrive on my 24 P&D and not sure of the x dimension. I have a sbf 351 pushing about 350 hp. What am I looking it to have a good height for beat all around? I was told 17 1/4'' then 17 and now 16 1/2'' and I want to have this done within the next week if possible

Thank you

Yep Just counted 9 threads with X dimension in the thread title between Pantera and Superboat forums not to mention the one you just started with the same title in Feb . Got to work for it sometimes ..

Most popular threads : Whats the X on a 24 ...Are there any 24's for sale ...Are there any 28's for sale ...

:thankyouthankyou: LOL ! Just busting balls .

Lmao yeah I've looked through them as well, just shows me that I'm not the only one I guess hahaa

And I just understood your sarcasm now lol sorry. But yeah I guess the search tools are a bit better than just going page by page. Thanks for hunting without hinting actually helped

Thanks

yes pm me if interested lol

Hey z. I'm going with 17 on mine. I'm ready to cut too.

I was laying mine out yesterday and I hit a snag while measuring the crankshaft centerline.

Using the "verticle" up from the keel/delta pad method, I measure up 17" and mark the crankshaft centerline. All good, right?

Here's the snag......in researching here I read alot of guys saying to measure from the delta pad up to the bottom of the gimble and add 9 1/4". When I do that I get 17 3/4".

That's 3/4" difference between the verticle method and the "keel up to the bottom of the gimble plus 9 1/4" method.

So, what method is to be used to lay out the template for cutting?

Rob u gotta hang a plum bob off the back or straight edge out off the bottom . Then measure off that. Just measuring along the fiberglass will result in a different X

Hey mike. That's what I did to get the 17" mark. Straightedge along the keel and plumb up from there. Then after I lay out the template and measure from the keel/delta pad to the bottom of the gimble ( the bottom of the template lands at the exact same location as the gimble will be ) and add the 9 1/4", I get 17 3/4" at the mark I made for a 17" x dimension.

I'm assuming he straightedge and plumb up method is more accurate than the bottom of the gimble plus 9 1/4" method but I'm afraid to cut until I get this dialed in for sure.

In doing the same research I've seen both methods being spoken about so therefore I'm now lost hahaa how can you measure to the bottom of the gimble if its not in place yet? Sorry if im asking rookie questions but I've never thought my project was going to be this much of a project and doing things on a budget doesn't help either

Hey z. The mercruiser template bottom is in the exact same location as the gimble bottom.

We will get this figured out yet. Lol.

zavier24 welcome to boating . Your P&D doesn't have a delta pad so your drive will be a little lower on the transom then VC's . 17 is the safe setting that everyone uses and yes 17 from the bottom is 17 . . I always say cut on the high side you can always use spacers to get it dialed in . However on your boat you will be doing good to keep the 17 , If I remember your running a small block so your boat will weigh less and ride higher in the water anyway .

I'm trying to work on the sarcasm , I'm hopping as the temperature outside rises the sarcasm will go down

Vintage chromoly, now tht makes sense hahaa i guess since i dont have a template it diesnt help lol Does anyone know of anyone that has the template and can lay it on for me and ill do the rest here in south fl. Is the delta pad where the bottom gets flat towards the very back of the boat?

I actually started to laugh myself after I read it again a second time lol it was just enough as needed lmao

Somebody has the transom jig you need listed in Swap Shop . That's what you really need instead of a templet . Makes the install fullproof . If that one is gone you can usually find them for 200-300 and the best part is when your done with it you can sell it usually for what you paid . Another option is to go to a local builder in your area and rent it for a weekend . Maybe $50 bucks and leave a deposit .

Correct! I guess the name "Delta" is from the delta shape (triangular) of the pad?!

Ok I tried looking in the swap shop but I guess it's sold. Once Monday comes around ill ask anyone I might now that has one. And my boat does have a delta pad, what is the advantage or disadvantage of it performance wise and with getting the x dimension?

If u r in Miami call pantera, see if u can rent and leave a deposit. Tell him you'll have it back the next day.
Jo is usually pretty helpful so it may be a possibility. Or just trailer it there. It might be cheaper to have him blow the hole in it. They've done so many it'll probably take half an hour & be dead nuts on target.

They are actually right down the block from me now ever since they moved. What do you think is a reasonable price for someone to make the hole for me? I had someone tell me $450 and I said no cause it sounded a bit steep not only for my budget but just to cut a hole. Only reason why I think they might be able to charge so much is just because of the importance of the hole but its not a pantera or anything it was just some guy in the neighborhood.

My opinion is that the Delta pad is holding you back as long as you're not flying across the Atlantic in very rough seas. In flat water and chop a flat/parallell pad is most likely better.

I believe the angle of the Delta pad is too negative and would create a low pressure area in the rear/widest part of it. It's very common to see Panteras and the other 24x7 boats with the pad porpoising pretty bad in flat water.

I rebuilt my pad to a straight one and have seen 83.2MPH with a 496 Mag HO and Bravo X/XR @ X18-1/2" - so far.

$450 sounds steep to me. Either find someone to do it or buy a jig. Do not cut it w/0 the jig.
the notch for the tiller arm would be near impossible or look like ass.

So you say that the pad is better for the flats as opposed to 3 to 4 on the ocean side? I ask cause I thought it was worse in flats due to the friction on the water with the pad. What were yours speeds looking like before you did what you did to the pad? Have any pics of what it is that you did?

Ok good im glad im not the only one. Not all templates come with a jig?

No, the pad might be a good thing in really high seas but I doubt it's that great in the flat/chop.

I think there's some pics in my Pantera Racing thread.

Tomas is being modest , His 24/7 has set the precedence for all 24/7's being that he has done over 80 with only a 496 . I think Tomas builds missiles in the UK for his regular job and used that technology to reshape the bottom of his boat .
The delta pad is beter then no pad at all but not as good as a flat pad parallel to the bottom of the boat . The delta pad has a slight rocker shape to it and thats what causes the porpoise in flat water . In chop, slop or at full speed it will ride fine . Mine felt great at full speed as long as the water was nasty but if it was slick out it would scare the $hit out of you .
If your to the point of cutting your transom you need to save bottom mods for next winter and keep moving forward .

Hahaha :lolhit:

I have done even more work on the bottom now and hopefully I'll gain a mph or two.

And it's Sweden, not the UK ;)

I might have to agree with OCCJoe about Tomas hahaa
Tomas I found your thread but none of the pictures were popping up I don't know why. But I guess you must have done something right down there to get the results you've gotten! I would love to see some pics or videos of the boat running

And the hook is where exactly on the hull, the pad itself?

Not hook ( Rocker ) ! Put a long straight edge along the bottom of the boat and you will see what we are talking about . Here's Tomas's page he's got a few videos of his boat running https://www.youtube.com/user/tommmas1979/videos . Tomas I think when your done we need to splash that hull

Yeah, I linked those pics from Facebook for some reason and it's not working any more.

I put in some of the pics and a few new ones a while back:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/3864589-post70.html

Ok great will do that tmm to see about the hook and thanks for the pics guys. I can't wait till tmm so I can try and find out everything I need to find out. If all goes well and I don't fall asleep after work in the morning it should be a productive day since I'm also painting the boat by Tuesday :evilb:

Hey z. I'm going to drill out my holes and cut for the drive in a minute here.

I've decided to go with a conservative 17" x dimension.


I also have a paper template and after buying the jig, I see why It's a "must" for properly drilling and cutting the hole.

If you want the paper template, shoot me your addy and I'll send it to you for free.

Later bro, rob.

The previous link was apparently to a specific post...

The new pics start at post #70: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/p...ml#post3864589

The jig in use:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps02b574c1.jpg

See the importance of the angled pilot hole for the steering arm:

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps9f27da7d.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps32293a23.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps514607f0.jpg

Thanks a lot rob! I will let you know by tmm afternoon what the plan is going to be so if you can send me a pm with your number it would be great cause I lost my phone ever since I bought the trim motor and prop last year. Those are great pics, is it as easy as it looks? Never done one before and know the importance of it. Unfortunatelly im not very familiar with the mercs and I'm at work right now but I'm trying to picture what those two angled holes are for?

The factory steering arm that comes out of the gimble . If your going with external steering you don't need to cut the angled holes but you'll need to cut the arm out of the gimble

I'll pm you my number z.

I am going with external steering but I figured I cannot hurt to have the recess cut for the steering arm.

It is as easy as it looks and all you need is a drill motor and a jigsaw.

Attachment 497311

Transom is done and so are the stringers! Passed by to see pepe this morning and he's going to rent me the template and I'm going to be cutting the hole myself. More pics as I move along, I will probably be sanding the sides tmm as soon as I take off the rub rail

Z

Transom looks great z!

Nice Job on the transom!!!

Thanks a lot guys! i have quite a bit of coaching from luis and his laminating guys at Concept Boats!

Next step, I want your opinions. I want my deck to look longer and I'm working on it now covering a few holes that I don't need or what not, should I close the holes for the hatches? Worse case scenario I can open the holes again later on and a bit further back right? What do you guys think?

My Deck has no hatch, I love the look, but wouldnt mind a low profile hatch.

http://i1036.photobucket.com/albums/...asota/sar1.jpg