Fountain 47, 2372cid single engine diesel
#492
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Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 420
From: BC
Even longer handles to help with the torque...just get moving faster to smack you when it gets free!!!
#495
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 14
Likes: 24
#496
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,601
Likes: 1,169
From: taxachusetts
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tesla_valve
#497
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 346
Likes: 877
From: Finland
Static strenght for these 128mm CV joints is over three times dynamic force so safety factor is over three. Joints will die fast if there is any kind lubrication issue, I have seen big CV joint failures in small power boats, all of them have been as dry Bedouin sandal. I should remove, disassembly wash and relubricate drive shafts every year. There are some ways to improve greace runaway from joint to rubber sleeve.
#498
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 346
Likes: 877
From: Finland
Exhaust are ready, this way I sealed big holes.

First I weld 12 degree angle parts to get tails in right spot. Engine is also adjusted to level.

2mm thick silicon sheet, it can handle near 300C temps so it's good sealing material. It doesn't matter if some day there is little tailpipe overheating issue. Silicon is also very flexible and stretchy so it can be slip over pipe.


Stainless steel water cut flange push ***** lip against to transom, should be pretty watertight.


I try find black silicon but red was only available, color doesn't matter now because splash is so close. No time to lose!
As you see, pipes are litte up in holes, there is little tolerance to adjust driveshafts more in line (lift splitbox side of powerline up) if boat needs bigger trim angle. Engine is now set 2 degree trim angle to get CV joints as little angle as possible.

Carbon tube end turning to straight, there is special tool locked inside tube to get support for outer end.

CrMo end pieces pressed in and first one is now glued! Another will be glued tomorrow, soon I can assemble CV's and put shafts in boat.

Nobody know how these hold up but if my calculations are right, glue joint have 40 times safety factor and tubes should hold two times the power. Transmash will be in good tune if it have so much power to explode carbon tube.....

First I weld 12 degree angle parts to get tails in right spot. Engine is also adjusted to level.

2mm thick silicon sheet, it can handle near 300C temps so it's good sealing material. It doesn't matter if some day there is little tailpipe overheating issue. Silicon is also very flexible and stretchy so it can be slip over pipe.


Stainless steel water cut flange push ***** lip against to transom, should be pretty watertight.


I try find black silicon but red was only available, color doesn't matter now because splash is so close. No time to lose!
As you see, pipes are litte up in holes, there is little tolerance to adjust driveshafts more in line (lift splitbox side of powerline up) if boat needs bigger trim angle. Engine is now set 2 degree trim angle to get CV joints as little angle as possible.

Carbon tube end turning to straight, there is special tool locked inside tube to get support for outer end.

CrMo end pieces pressed in and first one is now glued! Another will be glued tomorrow, soon I can assemble CV's and put shafts in boat.

Nobody know how these hold up but if my calculations are right, glue joint have 40 times safety factor and tubes should hold two times the power. Transmash will be in good tune if it have so much power to explode carbon tube.....
#500
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Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 920
Likes: 599
From: Central Louisiana
Omg! I’ve got a lot of reading to do. How much torque/hp is your engine going to make? Do you have an estimated top end? I know this has been covered already and I apologize for my laziness.


