|
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1d0dc99d90.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0548efb2d5.jpg Calling the pad 4, the stringers are at 1 1/2 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...85dae1b58c.jpg Calling the strut port 2 ( it was hacked at the factory) Strut port should be same as pad take all the numbers pad port and stringers, rotate the pad to zero, strut port is neg 2 stringers are 5 1/2. now get to the strut and shaft angles https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2f43a603f0.jpg Calling that level https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b945a41fd6.jpg Strut is 13 https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...49ca999ebe.jpg Factory hack shim under rear of strut. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...727e97d025.jpg Calling that 16 with the shim in place, add the 2 from them grinding thats 18 degrees shaft angle. Thats like trimming your drive negative 5 degrees https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7c1a8edcd7.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...60eb5dc89f.jpg Engine at 7 1/2, stringers are at 5 1/2, should be 13 which is correct shaft angle https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bbe3e3c601.jpg Side to side https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...eaef59e041.jpg Engines on dummy stringers set close to width, center and angle. Should be in the ball park and set right in. i'm going to start backwards, set in engine and find front/back for correct strut/prop spacing , about 1/2 inch (not the 2 inches the factory left) With engine centered and at 13 degrees connect shaft to engine, slide on strut and find out how far the strut is away from it's port and how much of what it's gonna take to get it back to the 13 it's supposed to be with the engine-shaft-prop lined up down the keel, not slung way over to port like it was. once whatever it takes to get the strut where its supposed to be i'll mount it and then do the alignment the regular way and then bed the stern tube. Theres no way i'm just gonna slam it together. |
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0fd459157a.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c0f58f51d5.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ebfd689694.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b084de5570.jpg the engine landed 1/16 off center and 3/16 forward, third pic is after moving back 3/16. drilled 1 bolt hole in each corner, plan is unbolt pedestals from angle, pull engine up a foot and drill remaining 6 bolt holes. confident enough to let engine hang while they get epoxy soaked. spent time grinding the shim to get 2 degrees back and when installed the shaft wouldn't go thru the hole !!! The shaft won't go in unless that hunk of aluminum is in there, if the stern tube hole was moved forward about 2 inches it would work at 13 degees as designed. The stern tube hole is molded in, so It's either the mold the batch of parts or some other hackery at some point in it's life. was gonna name it ski force 1 but now it might as well be eating crow |
Engine angle to stringer holes drilled-epoxy soaked & 4200 on both sides of the stringers.
angles torqued, same for the ski pylon mount and the steering knuckle hole. maybe waterproof, maybe not but piece of mind anyway. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ed1ae53387.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a2f9f68c47.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f0be976528.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...22fa8c1636.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...902364e0ef.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...100f2b3466.jpg |
Ah the fun of straight shaft drive alignment. I've only ever had to realign a couple. Doing from scratch sounds like fun.
|
I’ve got to read the forum more, I had no idea you were doing this. Awesome work as always. Looks great.
|
I am thoroughly confused,,,, but first, found out the shaft is bent, this is actually good news because the new shafts are dual tapered and go in/out in a few minutes vs. the old style 2 hour removal/ 500 degree oven for reinstall of the coupler on the shaft.
this will go along way when it comes to bedding and glassing the stern tube in. meanwhile i started dressing the engine then move on to wiring, but a riser bolt broke in the manifold before it reached 10 ft pnds. that was a week ago. today i just jumped on wiring worry about the riser bolt when she's ready to start. i have every new wire accounted for except the volt meter the alternator the circuit breaker and theres a brown with blue tracer on the engine and boat harness but not the dash harness. there is one 10g red wire leaving the alt/dash side of the circuit breaker that cannot be explained. i'm making drawings and flow charts and still cannot see this volt alt brkr mess. i'm right back at grind off the hin and leave it somewhere |
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...11df7f0fca.jpg
Accy and fuel level boat side harness, i didn't have enough pink and another color, so it's not abc. Loomed it in sections around the bilge pump and rear ground The dash side accy is twisted 2 over 1 https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fca1925f1d.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...14fc055c6a.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...72658d87d2.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a5e6a1e02f.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1e7fd4bc6c.jpg In theory, the only connection that could get wet is the bilge pump. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d34603d512.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...be15788e03.jpg Same game, get it in then 1 at a time pull off, apply 4200 and reinstall the clamps. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2e3f9ce966.jpg The harness ended perfectly (by pure luck) with plenty of the wrong colored wires to hook up the back end. |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a814828aa4.jpg
All day yesterday cutting out old silicone from the dash back then toothbrushing it all clean, then fresh silicone around the joint and the old screw holes. From the dash forward the hull/deck arent bonded and it needed the rivets drilled out and screwed back together tight, did that a while ago. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7b53ae859b.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f421b208b7.jpg It went back on in the original holes by hand with 1 size larger screws with nice big flat heads that i got from overtons. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9391715d27.jpg The rail calls for 5/8 rope, i had new 3/8 anchor line hanging in the living room closet. |
I was so waiting for that rub rail to go back on. I think I'll have a celebratory 'refreshment' in your honor :drink:
|
Man your making progress..
Shall I bring my wooden skis back to FL with me next week?? |
Kid your always welcome to bring your ski, but i'll be in cleveland next week.
Wrap it up when i get back, realy looking forward to alignment, cable adjustments misc. tinkering and it has a tuneable rudder. what i'm not looking forward to is the 3 inch exhaust hose, the stuff is expensive, it's exhaust hose not college tuition, for the love irish whiskey what happened ? why is it 35 bucks a foot ? Does a hooker come with it ? Take the cocaine out, i only want the hose ! |
|
Dumb luck, blind luck, gaurdian angel, call it what you will, but it's a good job that shaft was bent, strut install, engine alignment and stern tube getting glassed in was gonna happen before the engine got dressed.
If that happened, things woulda been a lil tight. any ever tells you theres no reason to set the boat up on water levels pull strings drop plumb bobs locate centerline locate and level stringers double check and stay on bubble thru the whole job, let them know alignment doesn't start at the strut. alignment starts at the corner of dog box and exhaust riser. (there is approx 1/4 clearance per side) more importantly i picked up a pair of like new trick skis from the 80's when i was in cleveland. Guy i got them from keeps all his stuff real nice. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...417b12ae08.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...feca13ad11.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c12ed10be4.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...87f2760526.jpg |
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5267ace6ec.jpg
560 sqaure inches of 1700 bi-ax, and 635 thin epoxy @ 3:1. 4 pieces 14x10, each piece made 2 laps around the bell and just a touch more around the pipe. Each piece was rolled on and bubble rolled out as i rolled it, each piece was started 90* off so it didn'nt have a build up in one area. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a794e7cb07.jpg It ended up straight and pretty round on the exterior. Wax on the pvc and it popped right off https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4791223c8a.jpg 8 layers, just under 3/16 thick. Looking into the bell end. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5ad76687c1.jpg The old bearing fits better than in the bronze stern tube so i think i can use it to fit the glass tube better to the inside hull shape. The bronze stern tube had a lot of bedding compound under it and water was getting between it and the boat but not leaking. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...43a1649570.jpg Turned the bell end down on the grinder to fit the new stuffing box hose. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...59beb3f5db.jpg |
You're just showing out now Dan. That's some mighty fine work brother. I need to relocate you to Gadsden Alabama and get you to finish my scarab. Looks great!
|
Dude, the only reason i photograph and explain what i did is because i keep hoping someone will chime in and tell me how to do it right.
scarab, your scarab ! I put 4 bath towels on the floor of the ski boat, wash up and take my shoes off every time in and out and i still can't keep it clean Even when i go shoeless and out backwards with a towel, the race boat looks like it needs a deep cleaning. On top of that my finish work is really bad looking, no, you don't want me anywhere near that boat. just stop working on other stuff, we're all waiting for that boat to go in the water. |
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c587aa57d0.jpg
Manufacturer https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...90567ff24d.jpg Distributor what do you you do when the manufacturer and distributor want the starter wired differently ? i'm ready to strip part and landfill it over some god complex electrician black magic 1&1/2 starter solenoid doublecrossed jumped over wiring. where does yellow with red go, the neighbors doorbell ? manufacturer says hack it this way distrubutor says hack it another way, all it tells me is both ways are sketchy because theres more than one cheapskate with the electrician god complex who figured out a way to "make it work" instead of buying a few feet of wire to do the job right, and !!!!!! those are the first guys who chime in with the ole boat will explode with those parts and/or assembled like that fkkn sick of it. |
|
No start, no spark or whatever, all or parts, offers
good thing i didn't order the shaft ! edit in video, cranking starts about 20 seconds |
It looks like you sorted it out and have the start circuit working?
I don't see anything wrong with the way the distributor told you to wire it the only thing you could say the Mfg. cheaped out on is tying the red wires together by using the starter relay post they likely did that as they have no idea where the battery could be located at and would be hard for them to provide the right length of wire to run all the way from the battery to the starter solenoid. The yellow/red wire is the start circuit ( ABYC color code) it looks like you would have one wire coming from the start switch on the dash to yellow/red on the transmission active switch and then yellow/red out from the trans active switch to the started solenoid and by the video you have this sorted out? Don't give in now!!! The rest should be do you have spark and fuel and by all the work you have done this far I'm sure you can figure which is missing. Thanks for the restoration thread been following from the beginning. |
Thermo-choke powered off the coil posts or coil powered off the choke? Might unplug and see what happens? Voltage drain or a short in the choke shorting the coil? Grasping straws.
|
Hey thanks for the tips and tricks guys, i'll be checking for voltage in both run and start tomorrow
From the key yellow w/red goes to nuetral safety to S on the remote solenoid. nuetral safety has continuity in nuetral and doesnt in f & r. from the key purple goes to the choke to coil to distributor. i can test for voltage and jump/unplug as needed but i think the culprit is the module in the distributor which is nla. it gets better, first try i lost prime and got no fuel. After leaving it on the charger all day at 7pm i went out for round 2. I got fuel primed and some in a cup to pour down the carb, the pump pumps like crazy when cranking, right up the clear vynil tube to the carb and all over the engine. the pump is 60 bucks and back ordered thru summit, same part number from a boat place is 200 bucks. the dist and electric conversion parts are nla, all of the special diameter reverse rotation dist gears are non existent, d.u.i. sells a right hand rot distributor but its 500 bucks and on a 6-8 week back order. 2 months to start an engine so i can find out what else it needs get that sorted out and then order the new shaft and coupler bed the stern tube finish installing the running gear, forget it. i screwed up, made a mistake, told myself get a good engine first, get the hull based off the engine. All the youtube i watch and i still screwed up, people run boats till the caulk gives out then they recaulk it and go till it sinks, they only park it when the engine quits, I told myself "it's always the engine dummy" |
Should be able to switch to a '80s duraspark II ford ignition. Magnetic pickup in the distributor and dead simple ignition box, I can't remember how much centrifugal timing advance there is off the top of my head. Not marine parts, but junkyard stuff to get you going until something else is available.
Any mustang guy would have the parts on a shelf that could be had cheap or borrowed Just make sure the oil pump shaft is the same size, it's been many years since I played with SBF, took a bit for that tidbit to surface in my grey matter. |
The engine is right hand rotation or it would be easier and cheaper to get a distributor, good luck finding a gear with the right i.d.
i could always cut the bottom off put it on legs and make an outdoor ski boat bar & grill |
Ah, that explains why the firing order looked wonky, I just chalked it up to getting old and not remembering the firing order. That does complicate things
No easy answer for that one Haha that would be the nicest overbuilt bar ever! |
Turning it into a bar or putting a hot tub where the engine goes for parade float or party barge rental might be the only way it's not a total loss and the hull ends up under the dozer tracks down at the brevard county landfill.
first off, the battery after being on the charger all day yesterday was reading 10 volts today, therefore i get 10 volts with key on run and with key on start all the way thru to the alternator. the battery is on a switch and nothing is hot unless it's on, the switch was 100 percent turned off yesterday, i had to turn it on to test everything today. i have good continuity of ground all the way thru to the alternator. disconnect distributor purple from coil positive and black from coil negative and have no continuity of ground to the block or the housing on the black wire, the housing has continuity to the block. what i think is wrong is continuity is everywhere, choke coil and alternator purple wires to block, to ground, to itself across the board. Distributor tag reads FOJL 12100 CA 7808 BS 3J 27 i disconnected the battery completely and called it quits. |
The work you have do so far is incredible, don't get discouraged now! We want to see some videos of it dragging you around the lake on those trick skis!
Troubleshooting electrical can be frustrating, just proceed one wire at a time. Sounds like a dead cell in the battery. Check the gap in the points, and look for carbon, they can be finicky sometimes, test the condenser. (my method for testing was- charge it up, and very carefully, only touching the insulation toss it to whoever is nearby. If they get a huge jolt, it's good) Also does it have a ballast resistor? |
The distributor was converted to electric ignition years before i got it. Believe the module is bad and it is no longer available.
the engine has all new wiring harness and new 1.5 ohm coil specifically for the conversion and doesn't require the ballast resistor. the ballast resistor i found out is a piece of ceramic with a spring in it ! What it does and how it does it is black magic and i don't need no black magic, witchcraft, hoodoo voodoo and all kinds a weird **** in my life |
Man you do have a challenge! I believe there are still a couple of options to look at. What is the triggering device inside the distributor now? Can it be made to trigger another type of ignition control module? If not what is the shaft dimension? Can your reverse rotation gear be installed on a newer generation distributor? Can it be modified to work on a newer generation distributor?
Haha, you know I have never considered the actual physics of the ballast resistor. I just know that 12 volts goes in and 9ish comes out! And all Mopar guys had a spare in the glove box or it was already fastened to the current one (pun intended) for when it fails. |
I did some testing today via directions to check the ignition module in the distributor, it will go from 12 to 0 volts while cranking allowing the coil to build up and fire, it didn't do it so no spark.
I think there is a gear but it needs to be set to a specific depth which i can't do. Something about dist rests on block not intake and isn't shimmed like chevy, i don't know. fresh eyes tomorrow, trace confirm and multi meter everything for voltage |
1 wire was wrong, couldn't see it, wouldn't have believed it.
i got walked thru the wires, now she starts new fuel pump and petronix module will be here tuesday |
That's excellent!
|
That's a really nice project. Great work!
|
Ram air, (big improvement over factory blower hose that the foam crushed)
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b8b9208505.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...781e6b443c.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9285ca1970.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8488e39f30.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5a10b58baf.jpg |
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6e953b3747.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1752695e38.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f7ac1c719a.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7fcc19f0d6.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8ce6596f2f.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...97571546c4.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b41d3219f8.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f91a0cbd0c.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6cb4edc729.jpg New fuel pump on, new petronix ignition module installed, cap rotor wires sitting here waiting. carb is pouring gas down the primaries, with good advice and coaching, i ordered 2 floats extra gaskets and some other stuff on the way, carb rebuild kit is sitting here too. Maybe by end of the week it'll run right, the stuff should be here any day. meantime over the last 2 days i got shaft and coupler aligned pretty good. Had to grind the hull over the strut flat to get the bolts plumb, brushed on some gel and used a plate. The shaft is within 1/16 inline with the boat centerline and the coupler is down to .0025. strut is bedded all looks good. Believe there is acceptable tolerances between the prop strut and hull At least 1 more double check on the coupler before the stern tube gets bedded and glassed, that should be a breeze with the dual taper shaft |
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...257bcde76f.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...62076bf2af.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f3fedb973a.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f94c516b9b.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e4653f1b07.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0a6e897be3.jpg by some miracle i actually wrapped 1708 vertical and horizontal twice overlapping in front and under the tube. Got 2 layers laid like shingles front to back and 2 layers back to front with a cap over mostly the back. |
I see the round brass splined shaft inside the fiberglass tube and the prop shaft looks smooth and must go through the brass splined tube? How does that all seal up from water coming in?
Just curious |
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...25a83f0c44.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...11e82e025e.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0d0241661f.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c60a5b8d5c.jpg i asked on the ski boat website about leaving the tube on and general concensus was cut it off flush. Next thing was about the last 2 pictures; second last picture the tube can be tapered to meet the hull and then glassed, last picture barrel sand it open all the way up to the hull and glass it. The more i think about it that sounds better in that it would have glass on both sides. plus i'm not sure about the shaft seal getting water if the front wasn't opened up with the barrel sander. any opinions on the glass and shape. |
Originally Posted by Awash
(Post 4807054)
I see the round brass splined shaft inside the fiberglass tube and the prop shaft looks smooth and must go through the brass splined tube? How does that all seal up from water coming in?
Just curious i put the old cutlass in to center the tube around the shaft while the tube got glassed in place so the packing gland (rope seal) is alined on the shaft so it doesn't wear out. The rope seal if too tight or misaligned can groove the shaft. The bearing doesn't stay in that tube. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c821fcf860.jpg This is the packing gland/shaft seal, it's water cooled and by design drips once every 3-5 seconds. |
Roger that, I understand now thanks!
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:34 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.