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lot of boat a 38 footer,
when Im putting my 21 " back together I'm thinking I could do with another 10' in length for the BBc, crash box, parallel drive, as room is precious nice job |
Originally Posted by rak rua
(Post 4772198)
Nice progress, looking great. 👍
Once you rip into the Iowa boat, what’ll happen to the leftover hull? After what you’ve done here, I can’t see you cutting up a Scarab :hothead: How about an out board conversion? (After a little break of course) RR |
Originally Posted by scippy
(Post 4772205)
Heath I have the same triple axle steel trailer under my 35'....will be watching for pics when you start welding on the steel brackets for the boat bunks.......I need some direction on that.
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You may not want to weld blanks to close off the tubes. My B-laws trailer has boxed tube on his trailer bunk supports and it is rotting from the inside out from internal sweating and nowhere for that condensation to evaporate. Something to think about.
Looking really good though and glad to see you back on the project. |
Originally Posted by Topshelf38
(Post 4772412)
You may not want to weld blanks to close off the tubes. My B-laws trailer has boxed tube on his trailer bunk supports and it is rotting from the inside out from internal sweating and nowhere for that condensation to evaporate. Something to think about.
Looking really good though and glad to see you back on the project. |
On the steel box tube trailers, a guy local to me who used to do repairs, would weld the tube closed and fill them with drain oil and a plug. Cant rust from the inside then
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That’s interesting scarabman.
I’ve been fine tuning the hatch to fit the deck and the grilles better. I don’t know if it’s because mine is an early boat or they were just not finished precisely but just about everything needs a little more attention to be right. I had to add more material to the right front of the hatch to get it to fit better, also had to cut some material off the rt rr grille opening so it wouldn’t shoe thru the grille opening. Also spent a bunch of time repairing cracks on the underside, also worked the underside with filler to remove the roughness and smooth it up. It will be sprayed base/clear urethane. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d2c95806c.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e13fc9ab0.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1910055df.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...09527ac27.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6e9f4d9cd.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7e2e82359.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f379d17b5.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...177167e14.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d5f610332.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fb984abad.jpeg |
I think the difference between a good resto and a great resto is often minor details, things like the hatch and grille fit. Most people wouldn’t notice but I reckon you’d see it every day Heath. This is definitely a “great’ resto. 👍
RR |
Originally Posted by scarabman
(Post 4773144)
On the steel box tube trailers, a guy local to me who used to do repairs, would weld the tube closed and fill them with drain oil and a plug. Cant rust from the inside then
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Originally Posted by rak rua
(Post 4774813)
I think the difference between a good resto and a great resto is often minor details, things like the hatch and grille fit. Most people wouldn’t notice but I reckon you’d see it every day Heath. This is definitely a “great’ resto. 👍
RR |
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