You could put those in your living room if they weren't so much fun in a boat.

Those are incredible. Hopefully the guts are as perfect as the outside is finished.

Dont laugh but I actualy asked my girl if she would bring a
plate (t-day dinner) by the shop.

She didnt think that was funny.


I was able to get the intake and crash box on the port motor.

There is a built in foreign object screen. (Seagulls, Sunglasses
Bras, Whatever).

The intake fits snug against the intake housing.
If yooze guys remember this fits up against the rectangular hatch that I reglassed in.

If you look real close thru the screen you can bearly see the
freshwater compressor wash bar.


This will be fed by a pump and a electric valve to the onboard
40 gallon poly tank.

wash H2O
 

Gerry, Way too cool ! :cool-smiley-011: ? is the quality of the wash water of any significance ie: the use of distilled water over say a water high in calcium or potassium or other adverse elements found in low quality tap waters ? Jay :fish:

When do you use the fresh water wash down ?

Looks great!!! Just watched the show on Miss Geico (again), & all I could think about is how wicked yours and all the other turbines boats are. It would be be cool to get all the turbine boats together at one one run.
It's amazing what you can learn from OSO, keep up the great work, and pics!!!

This has to be the best " do it yourself " thread of all time. You are one talented dude!

:eek:

Dont really know. Just tap water. I would assume
a additive to clean any salt spray accumulation wouldnt hurt.
But I would feel better knowing it would not eat the metal
the turbine blades are made of.

I would assume after running for the day or even a quick shot
during would not hurt.

I was speaking to a Helicopter mechanic in regards to some
wiring issues.

They do alot of crop dusting applications and the chemical
attacks the compressor wheels. They actualy take a garden hose and spray it at ground idle.

Jets, and helicopters don't stop flying because of the rain:D

Beleave me anyone that can turn a wrench can do this.

Just requires patience and alot of Corona:D

Yep the next time I,m sitting in a plane I will think of this.:eek:


Here is the spray bar setup. for the compressor wash.

Also pictured are the Tach generators these bolt to the turbine
accsesory gear boxes N1, N2.
They are basicaly little generators with a square drive that
give the tachs the signal.

I got these on EBAY for 160.00 a piece. Gotta love it:drink:

KR, I would think that the blades should be made of Inconel, (at least on all the larger ones I've dissected for D/T) which should be pretty resistant to levels of anything that "normal" tap water would have in it-meaning to me that the blades would probably be the least thing subject to corrosive effects of the salt water. Don't know if you would need some sort of additive or not. It seems to me the best "additive" would be lots and lots of fresh water to dilute and wash out any salt, but I know diddly about it.

nice find
 

Ya, Generally on older hellllecopters @ least if they flew w/in 50 ft of sea water immediately upon landing a fresh water flush was mandated because of the salt air and corrosive properties of it. That's why distilled would be superior. It has no impurities and it acts like a magnet, just wants to pick up and dissolve any thing in it's path. If you drink too much, it can actually pull minerals out of your body.:food-smiley-009: PS ask PPS about " salt-away" maybe. Gerry, what material are the turbine blades made of in your engines ?

Maybe If Jim sees this he can answer I dont really know.

IS that a picture of you at keywest Slurping a Martini?:grinser010:


I had to modify the CAN mounts by adding more foot area
I used 1/4 plate.

Whiped out the ARC and used 6013 rods.

I attached (TACK WELDED) all 4 mounts temporaraly. I will
Unbolt all the mounts off the Turbine and drop them down in the boat tommaro to double check the alighnment.

Then I will drill the new holes.
They will lay flat on the
Skater Engine rails.

Then I will prime them and paint them the LEXUS metalic
Blue.

the ones we used on the fj 44 turbins were titanium fur tree design neat progress gerry cant wait to see it run looks nice

These blades are several different types and styles of blades. The compressor blades are stainless steel airfoil type compressor blades. The centrifugal compressor is titanium. the gass produser blades are high temp coated in=mpulse/reaction blades. and the power turbine blades are also stainless steel with shrouded blade tips. Oh yeah if you know who stole CARD SHARK it's reall simple. Call the F#@King cops.

Like I said, I know diddly about it. Pretty well all the blades that I ever cut up to make DT specimens out of were inconel. Every now and then I'd get one that had an inco hub and titanium blades, but they were the exception. Out of an entire turbine I only got one or two components though. Most all of the ones I chopped up were about 3ft in diameter or more, I never had any off the smaller turbines.

Dt?
 

James/CC, Thanks on the turbine material updates. ? what are DT specimens. thanks j Look'n real-fine, Gerry great job.

[QUOTE=1CE;2355668]...what are DT specimens... QUOTE]

Test specimens for destructive testing(DT). NDT, or non-destructive testing would be something along the lines of magnafluxing, x-ray analysis, eddy current, ultrasound, etc, which would leave the tested item intact and presumably still usable for its intended purpose. Some specimens I made were out of new wheels that they were trying new heat treating, forging methods or differenct materials on, some were on well-used pieces that they wanted to see what the yield on the materials was after so many cycles, and some were for failure analysis on components that had been involved in an "incident" and were suspected of being a contributing factor. Most were machined into a typical dogbone shaped specimen and then broken to get yield data. All are serialized so they can be traced to the individual forging and mapped to be able to identify the location and orientation on the forging. Some DT samples are made out of a sacrificial piece of material on the raw forging that is removed, machined and tested to verify the yield of the piece, such as for tail-hooks.

Thanks, Super Explanation ! J

Gerry your the only guy that makes me feel lazy. Looks great cant wait to see it in action.

engine beds
 

Ya, But it looks more like my girl:food-smiley-009: in KW, but we both like "dist" beverages ;) anyways how is the engine's alinement down on the Skater's engine rails ? boy hasn't it been cold the last few days:traurig001: J

Keith... Ya want to know really. I got nothing else to do:D


Hows your beast doing?

Jay the alignment looks good in height aswell as distance to
#6 flange.

I am trying to honor the original holes, But it is becomming more of a PIA. Then its worth I may mount angles to the mounts then Mount them to the rails and re drill holes where
ever I want.


Here is some pictures of the Fuel shut down solenoids
This is how we shut it down.

I also used the brackets to mount the throttle catches
If you look closely I modified the Arms on the Turbine
Fuel control to accept the standard throttle Rod and ball joint
Found on your typical carbs piston deals.

Gerry, g\GREAT photo's u-missed your calling. Anyway are the fuel line fittings for #10 or #12 line, is that some type of knob on top of the shut off solenoid ? early on u-talked about fuel types what are your preferences in order and what will u-most likely end up using ? D/G mix ? thanks J :eek: how about a nylon lock nut on the throttle ball joint.

The throttle ball joint is threaded and the Arm on the turbine fuel control I threaded 1/4-28. The ball threads into that
and I have a serated washer behind the nut which in this case
acts as a lockn nut cause its jamed up on it.;)

-10 feeds the Turbine fuel control and I am combining
all the returns to a -6 back to tank.

To bad its freakin 22 degrees out cause I could lower
one in.

Hey G, you gonna have a "red over ride button" like Geico.

Yeah if Mr. Haggin loans me his "Black" American express
card.:D

Great video. Great promo for Aruda also.

They can afford to let the pyrometer climb the ladder to keep the spectators and fans Smiling!

Dude if my pyro goes over the min safe limit rest assured
I will be cutting fuel and keeping her spooled.

At this rate your gonna finish this boat in the middle of January and then what are you gonna do to keep from killin yourself watching the ice and snow build up on it.:D

no loosy goosy
 

should have known u-would have a double bi-tch nut on there or something with all that safety wire lookin @ ya. cool J :eureka: ps u-need a big turbine shaped torpedo heater, if it's below 40 I need a hot toddy for fuel, again what do u-want to run ?

Fire them up and the outside temp may actualy rise.:D

Looks like Dean hooked ya up.:drink:

Most likely Deisel or I will burn #2 have the truck come right to the boat.

Cant do kerosene the hose on the pump at the station is
is only three feet long.:rolleyes:

It will hold 450 gallons.
But I never go over 180-190 a side.

Gerry,
When you get ready to fire them things I'll come up and bring the hot dogs and beer.:food-smiley-007:

Geez with 50 years of piston engine building you would think you could afford steaks:circle:


Come on down theres plenty of fridge in the beer!


While pondering at the lower picture.
Can we have a moment of silence please:party-smiley-004:

You never really said how the PSI's worked. Was it a big jump in power? Was it worth the expense?

Erik

Are you kidden if he'd come to Jersey I'd buy him a steak. I think he's scared of salt water.

They look great! Just one problem, those top pulleys are way to big. I think you need some 42's on top! :D :D :D What %over were you spinning them?

At the same boost level 8 pounds (33 percent over)There really was no difference. However when you bumped it up to 11lbs 46 percent over and we are talking pump gas Hold on.

I beleave it is because the centrifical weight of the Mooney 10-71 is alot lighter then the PSI.
The PSI requires more crankshaft HP to spin.
The PSI will just keep making boost 10lbs, 20lbs, 30lbs 40lbs.
It actually runs cooler the faster it spins.
You could put your hand on the side of it. Try that with a
14-71 BDS.
Take a look at the size of one its freaking huge.

Really in a nut shell if you want to make 1500 plus
horsepower PSI is at the top of the short list.

Most of the top engine builders will agree PSI is
the best blower out there.

If I Build another blower motor I will be topping it off
with a PSI and Fuel injection.

But I have gone to the DARK SIDE and I cant Freakin wait
to start melting Snow:eek: