Well ... there was the one night I ate dessert on the dinner table.
Ahhh, never mind (no pics of that one).

More then likely a bad battery. If it ran ok after a jump for 100 miles the alt is still working or it would have quit. Buy a good no maint batt for every day use and keep the period style delco for shows. Previous owner prob kept it on a tender and didnt use it much. It will go bad.
If your going out tommorow let me know. Maybe we can hook up. I need to get mine out for a bit. A run up the freeway would be good. PM me your phone #

Dan

You need a new battery.. The alternator can only charge if the battery will accept it..

I use a gel cel in mine... Having to pull the front wheel and the fender liner off to change it convinced me that I want a ZERO maintenance battery in there

I keep it on a battery tender also when not in use. Get about 7 years out of the gel cel that way....

You have to pull the friggin' front wheel off and fender liner just to get the damned battery out???? What phucktard designed that????

Going to buy a new battery today. Don't want to phuck around with it.

Dan would love to hook up with you but today I just don't have the time. Still moving into new house, moving my entire woodworking shop to new shop space and buying and installling new battery in Vette. Will PM you my # so we can keep in touch. Next weekend might work. Will keep you posted.

At 70 mph that car is LOUD. Am considering putting a 5 speed tranny in it with OD for the highways and keeping the original for if I sell the car.

Is the '65 different than the '67? I never had to do this to get my battery out.

leave it alone Russ, as time goes on you will see. If you have to do anything it is much cheaper to change your rear end gears then to mess with a trans. you have to change driveshaft, clutch plates crossmember etc...generally a few thousand dollars as a few hundred for a gear switch.

That makes sense. Right now I'm guessing the rear end is 4.10. mated to the close ratio 4-speed.

Think my battery problem might just be bad post connectors. Both of them were just slightly loose and I've had that same problem before on other vehicles. Bought some new connectors and see if that changes anything. I put the battery on a charger and according to the charger it's pretty much fully charged. Going to buy a multi-meter this afternoon and double check the voltage. I know if the cables are just slightly loose everything will work (which it does) but not crank the motor. Hoping I'll get lucky.

Looks like if I take that radiator "overflow" cannister or whatever it is off and move it I can get the battery out that way.

Will keep you posted.

Mine has air..... Battery is drivers side, under the master cylinder...

And yes, I'd like to meet the p-tard who designed it.. My guess he is the same one that makes me have to get it on a lift to change the passenger side plugs....

Well this is becoming a PITA..... I put two new post connectors on, after dropping a wrench down into the framework where of course I couldn't get it so off to the hardware store to get a magnet to get it out. Can't get the one out of the boat cause it's too tight to the carport roof to get into the boat without pulling it out. SO....

Get magnet, get wrench back. Change the connectors. Put my new multi-meter (digital of course.... who says old dogs can't change ) and it says 12.7 volts. Hook up connectors, get in, turn the key, and guess what, click click click. So, guess the battery has the voltage but no amps. So back to the "I need a new battery" concept.

The car ran fine yesterday until I got it home. So I really don't think I damaged anything when idiot crossed the jumper cables. So tomorrow I go battery shopping. If that doesn't do it I'm lost.