HOLY CRAP!!!

My wife has a 2015 Yukon Denali with tow package as well. I can’t begin to imagine towing anything heavier than a few thousand pounds with it. Great vehicle for my soccer mom wife - horrible vehicle to install a hitch on. I’ve towed both my 35’ Cafe Racer and my 42’ Tiger with my LWB diesel F350 and it is the ABSOLUTE smallest truck I’d ever want to tow a 35’ boat with.

I am not at all picking on you, I’m offering my opinion as a friend. I care about your safety, your families safety, and others on the road. You mentioned earlier that you pull a 7500 lbs boat. I’m assuming that’s trailer, fuel, and equipment? You should be fine with the current set up. Quick google search I see your tow capacity is 8400lbs, correct me if I’m wrong. Your upgrades well defiantly supplement the 8400lbs, NOT increase it. Your tow capacity will not change unless you buy a different vehicle. If get a bigger boat exceeding 8400 lbs and tow it with the factory rated 8400 lbs vehicle and God forbid kill someone in an accident, a prosecuting attorney would use that against you. Again, I’m offering my opinion as friendly advice and not trying to cause a debate. We have enough drama going on these days, I don’t want to add to it.

jtbooten,

Finally getting back to my failed truck. Decided to de-grease and what clean engine lats night before I dive into it haha. Looks like it is a fairly involved process just to access that FPR, go figure there. Dump some coolant out and move the AC compressor looks like the way to get at it.

Thinking my plan will be reman CP4.2 disaster kit, add lift pump, add CP4 Exergy FPR that has dual 20 micron screens (single 80 micron stock) to contain shavings if/when pump fails in future. ~$2500 in parts im thinking. Now just need to find a decent labor quote as I'll spend a month of weekends the way my schedule goes trying to do it myself.

If you do it yourself, PM me and I’ll give you my number. I can give you some good advice. I have not found any good threads about flushing the system. Most people have someone else do it I guess. It is NOT easy by no mean. Friday will make my 5th day working on it (6-10 hour days) if all goes well, it will be put back together and hopefully start. I may be able to give you some time saving advice.

I saw the FPR you are talking about and I like the sounds of it. I couldn’t find any real life experiences after a CP4 failure though.

Thanks! Yeah, I'm a pretty decent wrench, but it would take me two months to finish it with that type of time commitment anymore. I'll likely just bend over and take it somewhere and hope to have it back in a couple weeks and maybe be able to launch the boat with it 1-2 times before fall haha.

I have basically done it by myself. It could probably be done in 2 weekends. I worked 2 days hard in the heat and should have not even looked at it the third day. Four days spaced out and planning ahead probably could do it. It’s hard for me to pay for something I can do but this job may have been worth it lol.

I’ll correct myself. I figured today would be a short day but I was wrong! Worked on it 16 hours but it is running!
Anyone need advice on changing a CP4, let me know.

Ye


Yep! She wasted! New CP4 and bend over time.....I still cant find a nicer truck or replace it for what I'll have into it so might as well fix and keep her. Had a heck of a time finding a rust-free truck in Michigan to begin with.

Ouch. I feel your pain. I’m past my frustrated stage and decided to keep mine as well. I’ll PM my number if you run into anything. Buy some 3/8” and 1/4” swivel extensions, they will save you from taking a lot of extra things off. I did not take the whole EGR cooler off because the down pipe bolts are a pain. I also didn’t take off any of the coolant lines on the front of the motor. The CP4 bolts were hard to get to but the swivel extensions will get them out. The CP4 MUST be timed. Keep that in mind. I used a mirror to see the inspection hole.

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I done A LOT of research and head scratching. It’s a pain. I’ve pulled my boat twice since fixed and so far so good. Running opti-lube in my fuel (popular choice and saw some good data). I’m going to change my fuel filters even more frequent now.

I have the LEAST reliable tow vehicle in a 6.4l Powerstroke. I've found in ANY diesel application you MUST use a lubricity additive at very minimum as the current diesel fuels are excessively dry thus causing the fuel system failures you're seeing in this thread. I use both Arch-Oil and Opti-Lube at every 3/4 tank fill up, never run below 1/2 tank and steer clear of bio-diesels per my owners manual. The ford-trucks forum I use also says to change the Ford or Racor brand only fuel filters every 10k miles or 2 years as well as drain the condensation bowel monthly.