Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Owners Forum > Velocity
Prop Selection >

Prop Selection

Notices

Prop Selection

Thread Tools
 
Old 03-03-2009 | 07:07 AM
  #41  
Thread Starter
Registered
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 288
Likes: 0
From: Warwick, Bermuda
Default

here's another pic of the bypass hose. this is a 7.4 MPI
Attached Thumbnails Prop Selection-bypass.png  
qaberdeen is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-2009 | 12:08 PM
  #42  
Registered
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
From: Marietta, Ga.
Default

Thanks qaberdeen!! I will have to inquire about doing that on the SBC setup!?!?!?
DKerns is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-2009 | 12:51 PM
  #43  
Thread Starter
Registered
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 288
Likes: 0
From: Warwick, Bermuda
Default

Revd Up how much does the Bblades props go for.. looking at a 28 bravo.. and whats the difference between that and the labbed bravo 28 that teague sells..

thanks
qaberdeen is offline  
Reply
Old 03-04-2009 | 07:47 AM
  #44  
Revelocity's Avatar
Registered
25 Year Member
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 702
Likes: 66
From: Warwick, MD USA
Default

Originally Posted by DKerns
Revelocity, I am not doubting you, but what "bypass" is required?? I ordered all new hoses for my boat when I put it together and there were no bypass hoses. I also put a motor in a 98 boat recently that had the same therm housing O.E. and didn't have any bypass hoses and didn't have a hole in the thermostat.

Looking at the newer 454's like qaberdeen had in his boat, they don't show any bypass hoses either?? Looking for positive info so I know what I need/should do!! I also don't want to mislead qaberdeen!!
D,

What you're doing is bypassing the closed thermostat which Mercury accomplishes in two manners that I know of. Either a one piece thermostat housing and a by pass hose between the water pump and intake (like the 7.4 MPI diagram) or a 2 piece thermostat housing which does need the extra hose as the t-stat is not mounted flush on the intake but on top of the main t-stat housing therby letting water circulate. This was the arrangement on a 350 Mag/4 barrel 270 HP (Design 1 cooling). I have seen some 2 barrel 5.0L/5.7L arrangements without a bypass but I guess Merc feels this is fine for 200 - 230 HP.
Revelocity is offline  
Reply
Old 03-04-2009 | 01:28 PM
  #45  
Thread Starter
Registered
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 288
Likes: 0
From: Warwick, Bermuda
Default

Thanks guys for the dialogue, so it sounds like it's just best to drill, because my motor was built i guess to replicate the 7.4l so i could transfer a few parts and would not have to make to many changes. so if i'm correct Revelocity your saying to drill.
qaberdeen is offline  
Reply
Old 03-04-2009 | 02:12 PM
  #46  
Thread Starter
Registered
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 288
Likes: 0
From: Warwick, Bermuda
Default

The engine builder just got back to me and stated this.. (" You have constant flowing water to your exhaust system at all times specially when using a thermostat. If your thermostat blocks the flow of water and does not bypass for the exhaust cooling you need to drill the manifold and bring water above the thermostat. If the housing has water to the exhaust with no restriction you need do nothing to the manifold. The bottom line is the cooling system needs water at all times, you cant have the thermostat block water off when the engine is cold")


so in other words it sounds like i don't have to drill using the Stainless Steel T Housing in the picture because it does not block the water..am i on the right track..just wanting to make sure..
Attached Thumbnails Prop Selection-thermo.bmp  
qaberdeen is offline  
Reply
Old 03-04-2009 | 07:53 PM
  #47  
Registered
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
From: Marietta, Ga.
Default

qaberdeen, I was under the impression that the plastic inserts were to let the water bypass while the therm. is closed!! The therm. installs up inside the housing with the plastic insert between it and the intake...... Again, don't hold me to that!!

That being said, I have had mine on my motor(s) for 2 seasons now without any overheat issues and I don't have it bypassed!! (325hp on the first motor, 600 hp on the one that's in it now!!)
DKerns is offline  
Reply
Old 03-06-2009 | 03:32 PM
  #48  
Revelocity's Avatar
Registered
25 Year Member
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 702
Likes: 66
From: Warwick, MD USA
Default

I agree that you'll be fine since the responsible thing is simply to warm the engine up first before burring the throttle!.
Revelocity is offline  
Reply
Old 03-06-2009 | 05:20 PM
  #49  
Velocity Vector's Avatar
Crazy Energy
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,334
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma God's country no one else wants it.
Default

Originally Posted by Revelocity
I agree that you'll be fine since the responsible thing is simply to warm the engine up first before burring the throttle!.
Woman and engine, you should warm them up before burring the throttle.
Velocity Vector is offline  
Reply
Old 03-06-2009 | 05:28 PM
  #50  
Registered
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
From: Marietta, Ga.
Default

Originally Posted by Velocity Vector
Woman and engine, you should warm them up before burring the stick.
Fixxed it for ya!!
DKerns is offline  
Reply


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.