Hey there tomuchstuff,

I like the way your doing the fairing.

My old Cig 20 had a fairing and it was just the way your designing it. I could pop it off with about 5 screws.

I recommend you keep it just like your doing it.

I think it looks better than the new style because it is a little bit steeper and you get more foredeck which makes the boat appear a bit longer as opposed to the snub nose look.

Also you get to keep the ski locker, (beer cooler).

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/c...ture-book.html

My old boat is the first one.

I am sure the guy I got the parts from was full of B.S about how he worked for twin disk years ago, and his family member is still there at twin disk. and they "cleaned" out howard arnesons work shop after the twin disk take over, and the guy's end up with the drives "some how" & the funny side note of that story was about how howard arneson kept the one extra thrust ball in canvas money bag from seattle first national bank as one of mine is stored.


btw
found the housing and thrust ball serial # on the drives I have and unit I plan to use on the cig, housing model # 17-20-001 serial # 0000013 kinda a first run 1720 I'd say... lucky 13

now the housings and the other parts all have serial's of there own, parts were cast by the 1000 and built into drives so non of the serials will match on any one unit, but a low number factory built drive will have low numbers on all the parts...

my thrust balls, are all stamped from 169 to 350 that is other then the one ball in the seattle first national bank cash bag no number's at all are stamped into that casting.... Think if you invented the thrust ball the part that makes the arneson surface drive work and worth a buck you might keep the first one in a bank cash bag after it makes you a butt load of money? who knows if howard did such a thing? some one did with an un numbered thrust ball.

the u joint are # but were most likely taken from some thing Borg warner was casting for auto motive use or some thing and may have a much, much bigger serial # didn't look close the casting is hard to make out


the the shafts and thrust tubes have no #'s... I can see and I am not braking down a new drive...

the props are 16 3/4 x 21% hi rake same as the one used in later twin disk test. and a 16 1/2 x 22% hi rake with a lot work & lot of edge cupping.


low # do kinda add to the story.. and the un # bank bag ball is strange. rik told me there nothing to trace the old drives so we will never know...

I think so it was in red gell or black...was it a jet or o/d?

I am kinda coping you on the faring...

my little brother says the same thing says it looks faster with more angle and I am with you on the beer cooler...

I kinda have some side to side test data to go by as far as pitching the arneson drive....

boat 18 jet boat....

first set up
260 hp sb
1:1 drive 40hp power loss at = torque at 1:1 rmp
16x14% m.w prop
70mph

second
450hp 460 ford
1:1 40hp power loss
1:5.1 100hp power loss and 1.5 times the torque at 1.5 less rpm
16 3/4 x 21% hi rake
83mph

1 inch of prop is worth 2% of pitch

I know that I want to be between 14 and 22% pitch and 16 to 16 3/4 in size to run a 500hp sb 1:1

I think I need 16 3/4 between 19 to 22%

for simplicity I keep it in terms of hp rather then torque.

boat one has 220 hp after drive in the water at 1:1 and turns a 16 x 14% prop at 4400 rpm

boat two has 300 some odd hp after drive and gear but the gear multiplies it by 1.5 that gives you 525hp at a bout 2,933 after ratio and turn a 16 3/4 x 21%...

so a boat running a bam 1.1 12hp loss with 537hp bb will turn a 16 3/4 x 21% hi rake at 4400 rpm....

220hp in water 16x14% if 16 3/4 it be 12.5% pitch, prop has to shrink to give it rake at low hp.

but you can say for reference:
220 hp 16 3/4 x 12.5% pitch
535 hp 16 3/4 x 21% pitch

so is it far to say that then you can give hp ranges between the two varying % of pitch?

220 hp to 320hp 16 3/4 x 12.5% pitch to 16 3/4 x 15.5%
320hp to 420hp 16 3/4 x 15.5% pitch to 16 3/4 x 19.5%
420hp to 535 hp 16 3/4 x 9.5% pitch to 16 3/4 x 23%


I don't know just a thought....

The Cafe's have the best looking fairings, how bout creating a custom one for the 20? Good luck w/ your project, its fun reading about it.

Mine was red and white.

I was going to make foam pieces the same shape as what you have made so far on your fairing to fill in the gap. Then I was going to attache that foam filler to the side pieces that run down the inside of the cockpit to the back bench and cover it with vinyl.

This way you could still have a removable fairing and have it match the thickness of the cockpit sides like the new Cig 20's do.

Then I was going to cap it with a colored vinyl strip along the top like a modern cigarette. You know the part that looks like if you stop short you would hit your head on a pad instead of the top of the fairing.

Finally, I was going to make a 2" triangle shaped strip to run the top front of the forward fairing as a lip so I could attach a full length wind deflector.

Basically I wanted it to look just like the newer made Cig 20's, but with a steeper shorter fairing.

I thought that would look classy and unique.

Sold the boat to Klaw before I could finish.

I am enjoying watching this thread.

Keep the pics coming...

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

Yep, I like it!

I was going to keep the dash board in the original place and just get a steering helm that was longer to clear the top of the fairing.

I was afraid if I pushed the dash back, it would shrink the leg room for the back seat passengers.

Looking real good.

Those are great pictures- great progress you are making! There is 20' Cig thread with tons of pictures, created by Air Dog, if you should ever need ideas for paint, interior.