well got in a good 10 min today b4 the 4 o clock summer rain...


The two pieces of foam in the center are tabbed on to the deck to hold the shape of the front of the slope and to give me some thing other than the foam sides to screw in to to keep the foam in place. the two center pieces of foam will be removed after the lay up. The thin single piece of glass on the front sloped foam, is to hold the foam in place so I can remove the screws and do a proper lay up...


I still plan to cut down the sides to factory size and glass a second piece of foam on the in side of the foam. this will make side foam the size it is now and give me the in-set the new 20's have mid slope and I'll also be able to change the top slope to sweep back further along the cockpit's edge. the forward slope will get the center in-set and mid slope in-set in the glass lay up I think.. well one more day or 3 and it can be removed so I can finish the deck get to some fun stuff....


http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

so phil runs a 32inch tab on some 20's.... I have read the 20' is bow heave but lots of hp and the lbs of a big block must make the boat come up hi in the bow to need 32" tabs. I'd also think the tabs at that size must make the boat feel larger. may be making it feel like a 23 rather then a 20 any feed back...

So my crazy idea, take a mold of my transom and 32" inches of the bottom between the big 14 x 32" tab's. To make a bolt on stand off box with swim platform, may be with a step where the two attach. altho the tabs will make that step fun... This will give me room to install a big m engine and velt mounted to stringers and u joint to my arneson drive.. think it'd be 2 or 300 lbs...


any thoughts???

I have heard the bow heavy concern before.

The way I understand it is if you go with any big block or a standard small block, then you will be okay.

If you go with a real light small block, then you may encounter bow steer.

I just picked up a 20' Sutphen and I have heard they are a bit bow heavy too.

I like your resto on this Cig, keep the pics coming.

Are you going to mount the steering wheel to the original dash? I would, because if you don't you will shrink your cockpit. On a 20' boat every inch of seating area counts...

Very impressive job so far on your boat.

If you guys need rigging, gauges etc...let me know. I love projects and can help with pricing.

Kirk

[email protected]

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
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glassed the forward slope with a proper lay up the removed the wind screen and got rid of them tabs....

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photo 1: once the wind screen was of i glassed the in side and photo 2: slapped back on the boat photo 3: and screwed a the dash foam to the old dash tabbed it into the wind screen then pulled back off and glassed it some more on the in side.....

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

then I put the wind screen back on

the last photo of the pipe on the window shows what angle i think the top slope needs to be if you fallow the bottom line of the pipe or in other words if the hole in between the pipe and boat was glass... some thing for tomarrow...

thanks

The dash is in the factory aria it extends up 6" or so more inches from the top of the factory dash top. it looks like the wheel will end up in the exact same place.. I have to lay up some curve in to the front slope.. but have to finish the in-sets first...

here is the thing... back before 1968 most race boats ran inboard. the thinking was as in most planing inboard boats to day to center the engine and balance the boat... the out drive that every one had converted to by mid 1970's brought the engine further to the transom and created bow lift more so the even the center engine boats. both inboad and out drive boat had a need for tabs as both boat got thrust below the water line...

the tab's put hook in you hull and cost speed...


so I was thinking to run an arneson you'd want a more center engine and balanced boat to reduce bow lift and keep the boat on as level plane as can be. as the boat is getting thrust at water line not below so will draw most lift from engine in the rear, so to get as much thrust and as little drag as you can you'd need your prop level not trimming down... this is the thinking behind extending the transom with a stand off box molded from the transom and bottom..... along with giving me room for a big M, 1:1 bam and drive shaft.......

here maybe the draw back.

arneson's and surface drives as a whole only make slow boats save fuel and fast boats faster or planing and displacment hulls run better at peak ranges....

so arneson do not plain untill 3800 or 4000 they have to be propped at plane when the prop is out and the drag on the hull has changed so there is no mid range no matter the gearing... may plane at 2400 with a 6:1 the run at 22kn with 450hp

so the drive may need the extra lbs in the rear to help over come plane and the stand off box may put them pound's further back to help onto plane. a balanced boat may not plane till 4300 or some thing

i dont know...

any one?

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

finished the front also,,, phone died only 2 photos to day....