ya
I think the dash needs to stay in the factory place for leg room also not a big cockpit to start with.... Photo 2 and 3 are how I think I will spray mount the foam in for carving... I can put one block across above the factory dash and one to fill the aria in front. then carve the forward angle. The new upper dash will need to be carved out for the steering wheel to fit, maybe I can keep the dash thicker where it connects to the new style center console and I can carve out an angled gauge cluster that faces the driver....

look at the att photo see how the foam will step back 3 inches above the dash....

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

ya
I down loaded all of the 20 photos from his post, it was a lot of help to me to see all cool ways owners went custom on there old 20's, and to see the newer 20's change over the years as a result of what owners have done.

That's a real good post...
thanks
Air Dog.

That was a good thing to do! I also want to thank Air Dog too- those were great pix to look at
I am working currently on my 13' Mini Hawk and I get ideas from looking at other Mini Hawks too.

Here is the housing sticker.... #00013 to be exact...

my iphone needs more light and I can't get a good close up with this thing, sorry for the photo... the damage to the tag is to the clear plastic over the foil tag the dark ring is glue from the clear foil cover and some of the clear hanging...


http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

just some math...

so if the second boat ran a 450 hp engine and 1.5:1 drop it may have seen 300 hp in the water at best "my thinking" & I may be wrong but did some math on "my thinking" seeing as I have no data on the drop box power loss.....

So if I say the power loss is 150hp from the drop gear. you end up with 300hp if you convert 300 hp to torque its 358.9 fpt and multiply it by 1.5:1 the gear you get 537 fpt at 4400 prop spinning at 2.999... if you convert no power loss 450hp to torque its 537 fpt at 4400 prop spinning at 4400...

now I was just taking a stab at power loss but if you wanted to test the 1.1 inline to the 1.5:1 drop the only way to do it is to run the same amount of torque after power loss to the same pitch propeller... all that changes it final rpm of the prop so you see what the gear dose other them make it simple to install...

it takes hp/tq to move prop pitch & size so if this math is correct the pitch range numbers I put down still work for me.


220 hp to 320hp 16 3/4 x 12.5% pitch to 16 3/4 x 15.5%
320hp to 420hp 16 3/4 x 15.5% pitch to 16 3/4 x 19.5%
420hp to 535 hp 16 3/4 x 19.5% pitch to 16 3/4 x 23%

I need data on the power loss from the drop box....

I have a 21% and 22% I am going to buy a 19%, 20% & 23% pitch in a 16 3/4

there is no data of twin disk running a side by side..

but the asd6 planes at 3800 rpm and 4000 rpm with a chopper that's only 200rpm faster then inline.. the drop gear will hold plane at 2000 rpm that's 400 less rpm then the inline. not much mid range pick up. but ez to install...
the top end change it unknown... yet

to do what the drop box wanted to do on a 20' boat you'd need a 400 hp engine with a 14" x 16% and a 3 to 1 that changed with rpm into a 16" x 14% and a 2 to 1 gear like say around 1400 rpm's then after planing at around 2000rpm a 1:1 gear shift the prop can go 16 3/4 x 23%. low mid and top end... there are gears that will do the job, the trick is a prop that changes size and pitch and is programed to the torque curve of the engine thro its rpm range......

well if I can only have one I will pick top end...

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

here's a little boat that is in the yard. she is on one of the lip ship videos on there web site. I think its a movie boat. it is 4 sale 280k I think.

I have not been working my boat the last couple days, I need the paint to fully cure to flip the hull... So I have been fixing my new shop installing the air compressors, 7000lbs lifts, and setting up storage for parts so they do not get over sprayed...

I may start doing some customer restorations once more, and shooting awlgrip "not awlcraft"

"The ASD6 drive unit when coupled to a modified transmission unit has a lower HP loss than that of a Bravo™, which in turns puts more power to the water."

the bam has 12hp loss....

factory transmission 40hp loss...


so with out a bam "The ASD6" has more loss. and with a bam can pick up 28hp at best.. I was too kind to the drop gear at 100hp loss....

When the twin disk test was done there was no "modified transmission" yet.
So if I can get good data on a bravo 1's power loss, I can do some math..

here is some cheap math.... 450hp - 50% hp = 225hp, converted to torque 268fpt, multiplied by 1.5 the drop box = 402fpt, converted to hp and you get 337hp in the water... to spin a 16 3/4 x 21%p prop..

so a 349hp engine 1:1 with a bam 72c will give 337hp in the water.. and turn the same 16 3/4 x 21% prop only 2000rpm faster..

what do you think happens if you move the same volume of water 2000rpm's faster?

this messes my pitch scale all up... any one got good data on bravo power loss????????

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

finished the hull sides...
any one use a base clear system over awl grip on there cig? I have a lot of House Of Kollor sitting around....

The drop box's sold by arneson are chain and gear driven.. The system has just as much power loss as a bravo with a stock velvet. The drop box hp loss is due to drag from the friction of the chain or gears and the friction of oil pick up in the wet sump or from the pump in a dry sump oiling system as with after market drop boxes, also the increased mass of the rotating assembly cost a lot of hp alone....


A 2.6 inch wide carbon industrial synchronous belt will run 1000hp and more if wider and can be 5". If you use a stock 2.6x5 inch pulley and run with a stock 2.6x7.5 inch pulley you have 1.5:1, In fact you can have any ratio you need, with a belt tensioner you can change gears with ez if the housing was built right.....

synchronous belt's are 99% efficiency compared to 91-95% of other drives like gear or chain. There is less rotating mass than other drive systems. There is less service and replacement needed. There is no need to OIL a belt!!!!!

belts have replaced chains and gears in all drive systems from auto engine timing to powering motor bikes so why not a marine drop box...

with existing pulleys and the local cnc shop I can build a belt drive drop box for under $3000 that will not need oil and may be more efficient then existing drives with a # of gear options. I can even drive two arneson 1720's off my one engine.. But a twin drive has no point till after 1000hp and that's well more then my planed hp range....

this is just a thought if I cant run 1:1 that is...

truth fully I do not know why arneson just dose not build a belt drive drop box with a motor bike clutch pulley and a thrust plate like a big trim tab that can be attached to the upper fin that can be lowered in front of the prop to devert thrust to back up. Then it'd be a drive with a built in 3 gear system...

the arneson in truth is an old idea with a car's cv join slapped on it. not a drive but a prop shaft. and an unfinished thought. but if existing ideas were used on this re thought of an old idea in the same way it was first improved it can become a drive system...

just a thought,,