IMO......Formula may have a safety isssue with the hull/deck bonding.
#261
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,397
Likes: 21
From: Somewhere in Ohio
There was a 382 that suffered a complete hull deck failure at a Chicago poker run a few years ago. There's some pics out there somewhere, I'll see if I can find them. If you have had to tighten your rub rail, and you have not pulled off the entire rail to take a look, I think you should. Both our boats could have had the rubrail screws tightened and all would appear fine. It's not until the rail is completely removed that you can judge the condition. I also have zero stress cracking, and the hull feels rock solid all the way down the side.
Being that we all boat in some snotty water, I would hate to discover a failed joint on a big water trip across the lake. It takes about 10 minutes to pull the rail and inspect, and the repair is straight forward and we'll within the scope of a good DIY.
Hell, it's winter, I don't have anything else to do anyway
Being that we all boat in some snotty water, I would hate to discover a failed joint on a big water trip across the lake. It takes about 10 minutes to pull the rail and inspect, and the repair is straight forward and we'll within the scope of a good DIY.
Hell, it's winter, I don't have anything else to do anyway
#262
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 912
Likes: 57
From: Solana Beach,CA
The amount of Plex used on the grid is way different than the hull deck. I put a inspection camera up the middle drain plug to check just that. I inspected all the way to the fuel tank bulkhead. It looked like gallons of plexus was used. It was oozing out everywhere. Everywhere you can see the grid even from the cabin floors it seemed ample amounts.
This is not a tough fix! No paint work.
This is not a tough fix! No paint work.
#263
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 264
Likes: 9
From: Holland MI
There was a 382 that suffered a complete hull deck failure at a Chicago poker run a few years ago. There's some pics out there somewhere, I'll see if I can find them. If you have had to tighten your rub rail, and you have not pulled off the entire rail to take a look, I think you should. Both our boats could have had the rubrail screws tightened and all would appear fine. It's not until the rail is completely removed that you can judge the condition. I also have zero stress cracking, and the hull feels rock solid all the way down the side.
Being that we all boat in some snotty water, I would hate to discover a failed joint on a big water trip across the lake. It takes about 10 minutes to pull the rail and inspect, and the repair is straight forward and we'll within the scope of a good DIY.
Hell, it's winter, I don't have anything else to do anyway
Being that we all boat in some snotty water, I would hate to discover a failed joint on a big water trip across the lake. It takes about 10 minutes to pull the rail and inspect, and the repair is straight forward and we'll within the scope of a good DIY.
Hell, it's winter, I don't have anything else to do anyway

#264
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,397
Likes: 21
From: Somewhere in Ohio
I think maybe you're misinterpreting this thread, and the concern. This isn't a bash thread, and it really doesn't make these boats POSs. It's just a known issue that should be payed attention to.
I know many other boats broke that weekend too.
I've been in the car game a long time, and almost every great car has a few little issues that we watch out for and fix. Doesn't make them any less of a car, nothing is perfect.
Given the high volume of failure we are seeing, this is a common problem. My point is even though the rail looks fine, the joint below may not be. I also don't see how the screws could ever come loose if the joint is 100% stable, as it should be with a proper plexus bond.
The biggest surprise to me was seeing boats with TIGHT rubrail screws and no visible signs of this failure have such significant separation in the joint.
I know many other boats broke that weekend too.
I've been in the car game a long time, and almost every great car has a few little issues that we watch out for and fix. Doesn't make them any less of a car, nothing is perfect.
Given the high volume of failure we are seeing, this is a common problem. My point is even though the rail looks fine, the joint below may not be. I also don't see how the screws could ever come loose if the joint is 100% stable, as it should be with a proper plexus bond.
The biggest surprise to me was seeing boats with TIGHT rubrail screws and no visible signs of this failure have such significant separation in the joint.
#267
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 549
Likes: 128
From: Lyons, Ohio
As Turbo-man mentioned, I am also lucky enough to be joining the club. I removed a section of my rub rail, and found my deck / hull joint cracked from the windshield forward for approx. 36". I also found that my thru hull bolted connections only occur every 72" or so (not the 18" Formula advertises). My boat is a 1999 and has approx. 560 hours on it. I am glad Artie talked me into looking at mine, because my boat displayed no signs, rub rail was straight, no flex, etc.
#270
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,397
Likes: 21
From: Somewhere in Ohio
How can a screw driven through super-special-never-gonna-fail adhesive in a joint that is supposedly one piece come loose? Screws come loose due to movement in a joint. The screws and nails in my house don't randomly fall out...



