sommerfliesby

Well, yes....yes it was.

RT930turbo

I 100% agree that there is a huge difference in a kevlar, hand build 382 vs a line boat. I also agree that the stainless insert can and will become loose over time, since this is not a static joint, and as you point out has nothing to do with the hull / deck joint. The screws under the stainless DO penetrate the hull deck joint and should remain tight (as I suspect yours have). We are all huge Formula fans, and this doesn't sway me one bit. It's a bummer that I have to deal with it, but the reality is it's not that big a deal. I've been on board other "offshore" boats on Lake Erie that have literally fallen apart on one moderately rough trip from PIB to Sandusky. We watched a fiberglass swim platform sink to the bottom after one semi hard hit

I think we are all on the same page here, hard to show tone and emotion over the interwebz.

As Jriggs pointed out, I'm slightly disappointed that the advertised every 18" thru bolting is more like every 18' thru bolting, but so be it

billpor930

I looked at and had surveyed a 1999 Poker run edition (kevlar) that had a grid failure that the surveyor pointed out to me. About a third of the way aft on the port side. This boat was beaten up pretty badly though and had probably been hit as it had a hull/deck failure in the same area as the grid failure. This one shouldn't be used as an example of anything other than to say if you hit something hard enough it will break. Shame as it had clean looking Mercury Bulldog 540's and the topsides didn't look bad.

370ss500efi

I just found this thread and find it curious about water leaks. I have a 2004 370ss bought new. My cabin was getting wet in the under seat storage compartments in cabin when boat was in its first season. Trenton marine resealed the rub rail, not sure what product but think silicone, and havent noticed the problem in 9 years. I will be checking my Bond in the spring!!

fossil fuel

C'mon guys. Someday we will meet up at a event. This grinding on each other serves no purpose. I get a little grumpy when this thread is taken as formula bashing. It never has been and never will be. I completely understand Formulas silence here. Can you imagine any manufacturer in today's Litigation obsessed world taking this issue on publicly. The Factory support for me has been really helpful. If it were a fountain there would be nobody to call. Not pointing especially to fountain but many others have fallen on the sword. This issue IS NOT A BIG DEAL! Its a way easier fix than say a leaky transom or rotten stringers. Good grief, Lighten up

Thanks

hogie roll

Kevlar382
I just don't understand why said you dislike this thread? It's informative and about a serious safety issue that occurs on lots of boats. How could you wish this information wouldn't be proliferated? The best reason I can come up with is because you're a huge Formula fan? I'm just trying to make sense of you postings.

Expensive Date

I must be special, because when I call Fountain they pick up the phone.

kevlar382

My boat isn't doing it. None of mine have, so I didn't realize there were many that did. What do you want me to do, tell you it is even through it isn't just to make you happy. You implied that I'm not vary smart because I don't take my boat apart so I explained to you why I know it isn't coming apart, I don't know what else to tell you. I'm not saying none are having a problem just because mine isn't.

jriggs

KV382 I wish was a lucky as you, but like Artie stated this is a fairly easy repair and not expensive at all ($100 to $200 in materials). I have owned (2) Formulas through the years and have been very happy with them overall. I think that on my particular boat, the thru hull connections are too far apart. They are not every 18" as they should be, but are more like 36" to 72" apart in spots, and that is why the plexus joint failed.

kevlar382

Like I said in a one of the post before, I also through bolted the white part of the rub rail where I could. I was able to get just about all the way around the boat except a few spots by the head. My boat has so many through bolts Im surprised in floats ( If I remember right those were about 4 or 6 in. apart ) . I also through bolted the windshield where I could get at it. There were a few by the dash I couldn't get at. Looking back I wish we would have bolted that on before the deck went on the boat, although if I ever would have to get the windshield off I would have been screwed. Another thing we did was instead of just filling the grid with foam we filled all the empty spaces in between the grid before the liner went on and then also filled the gaps between the liner and the hull. ( The area behind the lounge seats to the front ). My 1998 was kind of hollow sounding compared to my SR1s, this really helped with that. I taped about a 1/4 in above and below the seam and put silicone all the way around it, then bolted the rub rail on. Again, I know there were no spots that didn't have Plexus.
We started out with a F2 Kevlar hull and then put a full cockpit and cabin in it. It has a normal dash and companion door. We put double latches on all the cabinets and made the brackets for them as long as they could be instead of the way they come. I do from time to time snug up the bolts that go into the floor that hold the cabinets. None of this was done because of trouble with the 1998, just thought I would try to build the best 382 I could. It has boxes, 380s, and a one off paint job.
Im sorry that I ever commented on this thread, but having two really nice 311s and two really nice 382s, I never would have thought so many people would have been having this problem. Ok, that's my story, good luck to you guys and be safe.