IMO......Formula may have a safety isssue with the hull/deck bonding.

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01-05-2015 | 10:01 AM

#271

jriggs

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From: Lyons, Ohio

RT, So your saying you live on your boat?

01-05-2015 | 10:05 AM

#272

RT930turbo

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From: Somewhere in Ohio

Quote:

Originally Posted by jriggs

RT, So your saying you live on your boat?

Only when Annie throws me out of the house

01-05-2015 | 10:23 AM

#273

sommerfliesby

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From: Frankfort, IL

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevlar382

The boat you are talking about was the one with the paint job with the flames on it. I think it was called Lil Devil or Red Devil of something. It did not blow apart. That same guy's bother had a Fountain that he cracked the hull pretty bad on also. I talked to those guys at the Nor-tech both at the Miami show and they were bragging how they beat the $hit out of there boats. There was also an MTI in that Porker Run that busted the bottom up pretty bad. It turned into a big debate about who makes a better boat, MTI or Skater. Both outstanding boats. I have a friend who runs a Cig really hard and has come in with his rub rail sticking out about 2-3 ins from his boat on each side about half way down the side of the boat. Not saying anything bad about Cig, He runs his boat hard in really ruff water. I would think that running 380s on my boat would put more stress on the hull and deck than one with 280s and again I have not had and problem. Any boat can be broken if you run it hard enough in ruff enough water. Just because the rub rail screws come a 1/4 of a turn loose doesn't not mean your boat is going to blow apart. I think one of you guys said that this happened in 2005. Do you still own your boats, if so why ? Again Im not trying to start a big debate here. I have seen a lot of post that you guys have put up and there is no doubt in my mine that you are good guys that are truly concerned about the safety of others, but I don't feel that there are many 382s out there with this problem. Just my 2 cents worth. Thank you

Just setting some of your facts straight on this...the 382 in question (with the flames) is named "Inferno" an is owned by a friend of mine. The deck and hull separated for a good 6 - 8 feet on the starboard side on that particular Chicago Poker Run. His brother was running a 42 Cig at the time and suffered no damage. The damage to the Fountain in question was due to the anchor bouncing around in the locker and penetrating the hull with a tine. O U Want Some NorTech broke a stringer, and a 44 MTI delaminated at the back of one sponson. Formula repaired Mike's boat and he still owns it. I think what RT and jriggs (and apparently a couple others) are saying is just that this problem DOES seem to occur with some frequency and it might not be a bad idea to check out your boat. Nobody is saying the boat sucks or questioning why they own them...

01-05-2015 | 10:46 AM

#274

kevlar382

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From: Holland MI

Sorry I was wrong about the name of the boat. His brother told me he at one time had a Fountain that the side cracked on. Really doesn't matter now. My boat doesn't have this issue and that's all I really care about. Sorry if I pissed anybody off. Just know of a lot of Formula's that are nice boats that don't have this problem. Hope you guys have a safe summer in 2015. Take care

01-05-2015 | 10:51 AM

#275

looseconnection

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From: Sweet Home, North Alabama and Orange Beach

This tread is starting to go no where. The screws backing out is a sign of weakness of the joint. If the bond breaks the two surfaces will move making the screw back out. If the bond breaks and the screws are still tight they more than likely sheared off/bent so they appear tight. Only real way to test is to remove the rail and insert a wedge to see if joint spreads.

Do I get a cookie for good comprehsion

01-05-2015 | 11:05 AM

#276

RT930turbo

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Joined: Jun 2004

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From: Somewhere in Ohio

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevlar382

Nobody is pissed on this end, all good

Just want to be crystal clear for any other 382 owners that may be worried about this potential issue. It's worth 10 minutes of your time to unscrew a section of rail and check the joint in the off season. It's a very easy fix, and just got a quote on the materials for under $100.00. That's my recommendation, but take it at its face value of $0.00.

01-05-2015 | 12:14 PM

#277

88242LS

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From: Tonawanda NY

sounds like that was a hack of a poker run, also sounds like i would have stayed at the dock and drank, even if I had a 50fter

01-05-2015 | 12:29 PM

#278

hogie roll

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From: St. Pete Beach, FL

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevlar382

The confirmation bias you have with regards to your boat purchase is so strong that you won't even check to see if your boat may be coming apart? Smart.

01-05-2015 | 01:38 PM

#279

kevlar382

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From: Holland MI

Quote:

Originally Posted by hogie roll

The confirmation bias you have with regards to your boat purchase is so strong that you won't even check to see if your boat may be coming apart? Smart.

I have owned my boat since it was new. It was hand built at the factory, not a production line boat. I have had the rub rail off it before and there is no where that it isn't bonded. This is why I questioned this thread in the first place. I now know there are a few that seem to have a problem. I would have noticed if there was anywhere that was missing the Plexus, or any broken through bolts. In 14 years I would have also noticed water leaking through the seem if it was coming apart. When the rub rail was put back on it was also through bolted ( the white part ). Every now and then I have tightened the screws about a 1/4 of a turn that hold the SS part of the rub rail on. This has nothing to do with the bond between the deck and the hull. I am very disappointed that some people are having a problem with this being a big Formula fan. This is my 4th new Formula and even through this one has a Kevlar hull, I never had a problem with the fiberglass ones either, which were production line boats.
Hogie Roll, thank you for pointing out that you think I'm stupid but I really think I will be ok.