What synthetics do you have available where you live in the 20W-50 Viscosity?

I am sure www.amsoil.com can ship you 20W-50 Severe Service Racing. I don't know what the shipping costs would be however.

Will check around and then post what i found.

Read some forums here abt racing oils and it seems to be alot of
10-60 racing oils around.....
As far as i know Castrol don't supply 20-50 here (Sweden)Nor does Penzoil.... Haven't found Amsoil......Yet.....
Redline 20-50 is availible...

In most of Europe Shell Helix is available and supposed to be real good as Ferrari uses it.

Isn't Amsoil the one to go for?

synthetic-motor-oil-change-and-filters.com/amsoil_articles/oil-comparison-on-the-dynometer/

Can't post url.s yet :-(

Is there a difference between M-1's V-twin and their Racing 4T? Autozone had both hiding on a high-up shelf, but I didn't compare prices. A few months ago I read this entire thread (took me days), but I can't remember if the Racing 4T was covered.
For now, with 1100+ hrs I can go with Kendall GT1...50 weight right?

I would go with either Kendall GT1 40W or 20W50, not straight 50W.

20w50
Ken

Thanks guys. I knew it was the 20w50 but too lazy to type it :o
But do they make both the multi-vis and a straight 50? I would think 1100hrs would be loose enough for a 50wt. I don't think it's quite broken in enough to use a synthetic yet :D

What drive oil is M-1? Thanks

Just use their 75W90 gear lube.

You know your stuff Ken! :drink:

Interesting to know abt the 4T cause it's available her :-)

Called Mobil and asked.....Contents are secret......

We have so far seen the best offshore engine teardown results upon examination being those run with Mobil-1 20W-50 V-Twin.

The main crankshaft bearings look virtually like new.

It appears the base of this product can resist shear and heat exceptionally well while the anit-wear package is present with high levels of sacrificial zinc and phosphorous.

Guys I gotta tell ya nothing seems to be able beat this fine product and we knew this over a year ago.

It can be had now in 55 gallon drums and Vandy021 on this board is a Mobil distributer and can hook you up.

While the jury is still out on what the best gearlube is...and I think it might just be Mobil-1 or Royal Purple 75W-90...we know for certain that M-1 V-Twin rules in offshore hard use.

I really have a lot of respect for the new M-1 Oil filters as well as both flow and flitration are improved. However, I do prefer Wix Racing or K&N filters most at this time.

I run Mobile 1 in my Kaama drives.

1-800 Ralph Nader Sure you got the right #?

mobil Racing 4 T is a 10w40. The V-Twin formulation is a 20w50.

In a stock 502 Mag with 140hrs I use VTwin and I tried an M1-111 filter. It seemed within 10-20hrs then oil pressure needle started to move suddenly/irratically back and forth on occasion from 35-40lbs. When I chaged the filter, then things were again fine until another 10-20hours then the problem would occur again. I feel the filter is clogging up in this short time so intermittent bypass is causing the needle movement. So I switched to a larger Fram Toughguard TG30 which seemed to solve the problem. Does this sound logical and has anyone else had this problem with these tiny filters like the M1-111. Thanks

(The real problem is that I have the older style oil filter mount so I cant fit the larger filter in like the M1-302.)

Wix Racing Oil Filter or K&N.

I hope they fit.

K & N Filters:


HP-2002 is 4.60" in Height &
HP-3002 is 5.52" in Height.
Both have anti-drain back valves and a can burst strength of 362.3 PSI which is almost double that of the Fram.

We just hear so much good stuff about K&N from the drag racers that one has to believe they are a great choice for offshore.

Unless you run over 1000 HP and need the Orange Fram Tin Cans..these are great.

Wix racing and Baldwin puts a lot into the case and core as well.

Mobil-1 and Amsoil are decent for 502's and 525's in non-racing applications as both are new and imrpoved for better efficiency and flow.

I just bought 12 quarts of m1 v-twin from www.cyclegear.com for $7.99 a quart. Everyplace else seemed to want $9-$10 a quart. I paid $10 to ship 12 quarts. Hopefully it'll get here with no problem.

I'm just running a stock carb'd 502. i plan on using v-twin with a m1-302 filter, and i'm going to try to get a whole season (50-80 hours) out of the oil with filter changes and an analysis every 20 hours or so.

I buy it at the local auto parts store at LOTO for 7.79, but I buy more volume to get that price. Last month I picked up 8 cases.

In a solid condition 502 expect you can safely go out to 60 hours on V-Twin. If you change the oil filter at 40 hours then getting to 80 hours is a reasonable expectation. A Group IV/V can go twice the manufacturer's recommendation with a filter change inbetween unless you are racing.

Fuel or water getting into the oil or running WOT extensively can change that scenerio.

Best thing to do is when chacking the oil smell and look at it closely.

My big problem last year, according to the analysis, was fuel getting into the oil. I suspect the engine is running rich at idle, and plan to do a tune up in the spring. Also, the oil was running very cold last year, i will be adding an oil thermostat to bring up the temperature this year (since i usually start my boating season when the water temp is still in the 30's).

My plan is to change the filter and top off at 20 hours, and get an analysis. I will likely repeat that every 20 hours all season, unless the 20 hour analysis comes out exceptionally clean, then i may stretch the interval to 40 hours.

I looked around and never found v-twin at any local auto parts stores or at wal-mart. I'm in the Detroit area, maybe it just doesn't sell well enough here.

Mike at Sterling had told me a while back that if you smell gas on the dipstick change it.

The K&N 2002 just wont fit, close but not there. So Ill try the Wix 51069R which is a little shorter. Will post success or not. Non-racing Wix 57099 will fit but how good are they? Will try the new M1-111 as well.

Thanks for the help. I need to remount and use the larger filters.

Yes i've heard that many times, but that doesn't help.

I need to address why gas is getting in the oil to begin with. This is an NA motor, a stock 502 with under 150 hours since a rebuild. Hopefully some adjustments to the carb and new plugs and wires will eliminate the fuel in the oil to begin with.

If not, i'm going back to super cheapo oil because i'll be stuck changing it twice a month anyway.

you do roughly a 1000 times more damage to your engine running it rich then you do with extended oil changes. think about it... race engines at daytona spin 8500 rpm for 24hours straight routinely on consumer grade synthetics with no issue... do you REALLY believe your boat has worn the oil out at 20hours ? or that your engine produces SO much trash that at 20 hours you better change the filter ?

if you are contaminating your oil with fuel, then thats not a lube problem. if you are running the water and oil temps too cold then thats not a lube problem either. don't try to fix your lack of correct configuration by pretending to do proper maintainence with frequent oil changes. make the motor correct and the oil and filter will take care of themselves at intellegent intervals.

QUOTE=Hydrocruiser]
Those are great motors and seem to be running very happy!

Many are finding 75W-90 Mobil-1 gearlube to give great results.

The new Mobil-1 15W-50 EP formulation would work real well for you and probably with hopped up engines you are on a 25-30 hour change cycle with that oil and a good premium oil filter.

Hope that helps![/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info. What would be the reason why so many people are running the 20w-50 oils. Some people tell me that a 50w oil will protect the crank more due to the flex of the crank on my BBC stroker motors. I also contacted Amsoil and RP and below is what they told me to run. I dont mind changing my oil every 25 hrs, I just want the best protection I can get. Also, no one seems to be able to answer 1 question I have. Maybe you can help. What does a multiy weight oil ( ex. 20w-50, 10w-30 ) equally out to be in a straight weight ( 30w,40w,50w). If lets say a 20w-50 equals a 40w once at operating temps, what would the reason be for running a multiy weight vs a straight weight? Also what benefits would running a 75w-90 vs a 75w-140 gearlube have. Thanks again for all your help.

Amsoil:
Motor: 15w40 (AME)
Outdrive: Gearlube (AGM )

RP
Motor: XPR 10w-40
Outdrive: 75w-140

I think it needs more ZDDP and to go back to PAO/Grp IV./V.

Kendall 20W-50 is probably almost as good for 1/2 price.

All the true PAO's are now selling for $8.99/qt.

Hydro,

I am a little lost. Are you saying not to use the mobil1 15w-50 and to switch to a kendell 20w-50. What is the best PAO/Grp iv/v oil to use. Looking back on some of the responses, it shows that the Mobil1 20w-50 V-Twin has alot of ZDDP. I am thinking this would be my best choice along with the Redline 75w140 gear lube. Sorry I am alittle confused on this subject. I have just heard so many things about Amsoil and RP. I have nothing against Mobil 1 and was considering using it this spring. also, I have been using the Napa Gold 1060 filter. I am running the stock oil cooler from the original Bullgod motors. Boating in Mi, the water temp doest not get real warm and the air temp can vary alot. Just trying to weigh all my options and find the best oil for my application. Thanks.`

We hear from good sources that M-1 is a Grp III except for $9/qt products...

Having said that..

Not all Group III base oils are created equal. ROTELLA T Synthetic is made with Shell's XHVI base oil, which unlike other Group IIIs does not begin as distilled crude oil, hence of all Group III base oils, XHVI is truly the only one that can legitimately be called "synthetic." XHVI is a wax isomerate, meaning that it is made from the slack wax removed from distilled crude in normal solvent dewaxing. This slack wax is catalytically transformed (isomerized) and hydrofinished into a chemically pure base oil which rivals PAO in virtually every category. There are other "synthetic" oils out there based on Group III, but Shell's is unique in that it uses XHVI base oil. Chevron and Petro-Canada produce Group III base oils that come close to XHVI, but even though these oils are all hydroprocessed and utilize the same type of isomerization technology employed in the making of XHVI, they are not the same thing.

I only recommend using a PAO Synthetic and I am not happy with a GRP III. base...you might be?

XHVI.............Extra High Viscosity Index(?)

Ken

Sort of like that I hear. Shell is ahead of everyone in GRP III. product manufacturing techniques.

To answer a recent question..

Why Use Synthetics (PAO/Ester) in Off-SHore Crankcase Applications?


Synthetic crankcase lubricants (PAO/ester) offer the following potential advantages over mineral oil-based products:

Problem solvers for difficult environments
Faster oil flow at low temperatures
Less equipment warm-up time, more productive up-time
Less engine idling saves fuel and lowers excessive engine deposits
Less wear during low-temperature startups
Lower evaporative losses at high ambient and engine operating temperatures - less makeup oil required
Potential for extended service life
Better oxidation stability
Lower evaporative loss - less makeup oil
Better viscosity control
Potential to extend equipment life and increase time to overhaul
Potential for operating cost reductions
Fewer change-outs
Less downtime
Lower labor costs
Lower waste oil disposal costs
Lower maintenance and replacement costs
Reduced energy/fuel consumption

Alisyn Synthetic Oils and Greases
 

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