Not if you are running blower motors that you need to change the oil out every 15 - 20 hours because of how rich they run, other than if you are running the pi$$ out of them constantly.

That's about $100 in round numbers using SilverCap M-1
15W-50 and a M-1 oil filter fo the twin blower engines.

Blowers benefit most as the high film strength of synthetic oils protect them most when gasoline shears the oil down.

Think it over..:party-smiley-004:

Just purchased 2 five QT. jugs of M1 15-50 from Wally for $26.00 each.

I have a 500EFI with about 40 hours on it (after re-build) and can't decide which Amsoil product to use in the engine. I am trying to decide between the 20/50, 10/40 wcf, and the 15/50 RD50. I have been running the 25/40 from Merc in the past.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aro.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/rd50.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/wcf.aspx

It seems that most people are running the 20/50 from reading this thread. I boat mostly at Havasu and the pacific ocean.

The 20W-50 ARO is similiar to SIlverCap M-1...excellent choice.

The 15W-40 is a nice oil ofr diesel applications....the Racing formulation is good if you race.

The Racing formulation is good period.

Hydro,
after reading a bunch of your posts, I'm sure you've got a solid answer as to which one I should use. I don't actually race, but my boat is always pinned down the lake!

Is that what you are running?

[QUOTE=Racerngr1;2842506]Hydro,
after reading a bunch of your posts, I'm sure you've got a solid answer as to which one I should use. I don't actually race, but my boat is always pinned down the lake!

Yeah, as I said in your other post, that is all I run, and that is what AMSOIL INC would recommend too. Run the Racing Oil. Pair it with the Marine Gear Lube, oil filters and Racing grease, and you won't be happier. No you don't race, but running about 5000 RPMS for a duration of time, to me, is classified as racing.

I just called teague and he said the 50wt was too thick for the ocean and Havasu. They are only selling the kendall 40wt and that's what he would recommend for my engine. I think I'mgoing to run the WCF.

Yeah, that will work too.

Too thick when, at operating temps?

I don't think so.

Is this the same shop that said not to use synthetic oil because it causes the rollers to slide and cause flat spots? And the starts recommending Amsoil because they are sponsored by them?
People, think for yourselves.

Ken

It really depends on the engine,...an 1100 HP super charged engine that considerably dilutes oill with gasoline would do well with a 50-60wt conventional/syn oil.

An HP 525 would be better off with a 40wt is you don't want a multi-vis...

Careful jumping to conclusions..

Hydro, I don't jump to conclusions. A 40 weight will work just fine, and so will the 50 weight in his engine. Personally, I would run the 15w-50 Racing Oil. Boats are under extreme stress and high temperatures, therefore, I would run the 50 weight. Especially in Havasu, with the temps out there, I would want the extra protection, but as stated earlier the 40 weight will work just fine.

I know you don't jump to conclusions..I was referring to Teague :drink:

I like double ester products best these days....oils like Motul 300V and Redline.

M-1 V-twin is great as well and SilverCap M-1 is a great oil (though POA) the price is 1/2 of a 2x ester oil.

Teague is just a rare bird is all...:food-smiley-007:

I go boating alot and will put 20 hours on a boat in about a month so next time I change my oil, maybe I will try 50wt.

50 wt is best for temps 50*F up.

40 wt if less than 50*F.

Unless the engine is blown or has a very high lift cam use 40wt.

Run a 20w-50. It flows better when cold than a straight 50 and thins less at temps over (say 225 for sake of discussion) than a straight 50.

Ken

FYI Ken...


I talked with the guys at Sterling a little bit ago. They like M-1 SilverCap with 20hr changes for the most part.

More is overkill and less is not wise I think was their thinking...most engines there go out the door with M-1 in the sump....

Make a choice on the side of caution. What is wrong with that?
OK, you may spend a few more bucks for oil, buy less beer.

Mobil is tough product to beat in any flavor. It is available everywhere, it is not all that expensive, although a lot of people on this board think so, and most important, it works and works very well. (I am not a fan of light viscosities ie 10w30 in boats.)

Add a change interval of 20 hours and the high zinc stuff (V-Twin) is waaaay overkill, but your are talking engines that are $25K and up.

Ken

525 mercs, what would you guys use...I currently use the Valvoline 20-50w VR-1 racing oil....With changes every 15-25 hours...Give me some suggetions or is there something better out there for better protection..Florida boating...:ernaehrung004:

A motorcycle rated oil, 20w50 viscosity.

Have a good time.

Ken

I agree Ken. People on this board crack me up! They spend 100's of thousands of dollars on their boats, but when it comes to oil and lubricants, its "Give me the cheapest thing I can find". It shouldn't matter if the Mobil1 or AMSOIL was $25/qt, its still worth it!

Just posed the question...I see that there is something better out there..I will make the change right away...And it doesn't matter how much is spent on the boat...When this one goes, in with the next..$$$ has never been a prob...

thanks for your advice..

Joe

Imagine a Sterling or Merc HP engine with $2/qt oil....

....then $3,000- $5,000 to redo the heads every 50-100 hrs...

You are very welcome.

Ken

Ken,

Thanks for your response and advice..I appreciate it..Already purchasing some Amsoil with filter...

Joe:drink:

Gentlemen...

I have a ZZ502 bored/stroked to 557CI, 9.33:1 comp, mild tight lash solid roller, just shy of 700 hp @ 6000 RPMs

I used M1 V-Twin 20/50 for 4 seasons when this engine was a ZZ502/502 and changed the oil and filter every +,-20 hours. I like the VT due to the additives and high flash point/resistance to heat. The V-Twin is tough to get around here (central NY state). Think I'd be safe using M1 15/50 Silver Cap or should I stick with the V-Twin?

And no.... a few $$ more per qt. doesn't matter to me as I have a single BB with 10 qt. pan.

Thanks in advance !!

Kidnova,swing into a motorcycle shop and purchase a motorcycle specfic 20w50. you will be fine.

Ken

Thanks, Ken. I'll check out the local Harley shop and see what they have.

Bill

You can purchace Amsoil online and it will ship UPS to your door. If interested PM me and I can get you the info on how to get dealer price.

M-1 15W-50 GoldCap and Silver cap have 1200 ppm zinc/phos.

20W-50 V-Twin has 1600 ppm Zinc and Phos.

You do get what you pay for as ZDDP is quite costly.

My local Auto Zone has Mobil 1 V-twin in stock. Doug

The OE Harley Syn 3 can be improved on. Try to stay away from all OEM oils. Aftermarket would be the direction of choice.

Where in central NY are you?

Ken

I agree....

OEM anything means 2 companies have to share the profits by boosting price.

This may be a dumb question, but why doesn't Mobile 1 and Amsoil market there best and most popular used oil on this thread for Marine use????? It seems the Mobile 1 V-Twin and the 20-50 Amsoil pass with flying colors for marine use why dont the Manufactures capitalize on this??

Viscosity question
 

I have a newly rebuilt 502. Fresh bore to .030 over.
I am comtemplating what oil to run, break in vs long term. I have some Mobil 1 15W-50W. Is this OK?

Boat is an 89 Checkmate 25' Convincer

Thanx,
Dave

Dave, run an oil with a lot of anti-wear additive. You have a flat tappet cam.

Most motorcycle specfic oils have high zinc.

Do Not buy an OEM brand. Mobil V-Twin, Motul, Spectro, Maxima.

Most of these are available at Metric motorcycle shops.

Ken

I would geuss that the Offshore Market may not even be on their radar screen.

With the collapse of the auto industry, the majors are going to have to look for other markets to sell to. It just my be around the corner.

Ken

What about Lucas, STP or Slick 50 type oil additives.
Thanks Bobby