It was my understanding that the oil companys had to lower the amount of zinc because of EPA regs. (Catalytic converters) I think GM had a cam break in additve, but I'm not sure if it's still available. JC gave me several Oil options. Doug

[QUOTE=outriggers;2894340]If you are going to use Mobil 1 V-Twin, there is more than enough.

Stay away from conventional automotive products.

Motorcycle specfic products do not fall under the zinc reducing policies of the major oil companies.

Ken

[QUOTE=minxguy;2894844]SM oils have very low ZDDP.

You NEED an SG; SH..SL... oil. If it says SM; SL; SG then don't use it. SM oils have only 800 ppm zinc whereas V-Twin for example has 1600 ppm.

M-1 Silvercap/Amsoil 20W-50's/M-1 V-Twin/Redline/ Motul/RP... etc are all great.

ttt

[QUOTE=Hydrocruiser;2895023]I ran the M-1 20/50 V-Twin in my ZZ502 for 4 seasons, with plenty of hard run time. The engine was torn down at about 140 hours and the builder said the internals looked great. So I'm a believer in the V-Twin.

The ZZ502 is now a "ZZ557" with about 200 more HP than before. The M1-V-Twin is a PIA to find. Would the Mobile 1 silver cap in 15/50 be a good choice/substitute? I change oil/filter every +,-20 hrs.

Thanks

been running the M1 20/50 since after break-in of my 496's. 265 hours now

just stumbled across the V-twin on closeout at a truck stop for $1.99 qt.!

needless to say I picked up 18 qts.

Thanks to all the advice here, I'm putting M1 V-Twin in my new to me HP500 with a M1 filter and 75-90 drive oil!

Thanks.:drink:

At $9.99 a quart $1.99 sounds unbelievable.:eek:

Is that all they had? I would have purchased every last bottle!!

there was 23 or 24 qts available. I wouldn't spend the $10 qt. to fill out 18 for a second change of it, happy with the $5 qt. "regular" M1 20/50.

but at $2 a qt the 18 qts I did take saved me money on the next change over the reg. 20/50 at wallyworld!

can't beat that!!

[QUOTE=Kidnova;2897665]I run the Amsoil in my Bravo 1 drive as well as my engine (500EFI).
I run this in my engine:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/wcf.aspx

This in my drive:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/agm.aspx

For the people who are looking for something a little thicker, this would be a good alternative as well:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aro.aspx

If you're interested in purchasing the Amsoil, I'm a dealer and can get you a better price then you see.

what about Valvoline VR1- 40W, and a K/N 3002 filter, basically stock 502, should I use the 10 qts that I have remaining or use it in the truck.

Thanks

Well the VR1 isn't a bad oil, it's not comparing apples to apples. The VR1 is not a synthetic oil like Amsoil is and based on the facts of the oil content the Amsoil is going to last longer and do a better job of protecting for whatever amount of hours you have your oil in your engine for. The valvoline will break down a little faster then the Amsoil 20/50 or 10/40. The K & N filter isn't bad if you like stuff made over seas, vs. stuff made in America! Let me know if I can help you out any more.

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/VR-1_Racing_Motor_Oil.pdf

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aro.aspx

Not Right, the valvoline is ok stuff, I personally would use the 20w50 over the straight 40 for two reasons, better film strength when hot and faster oil pressure when cold.

Zinc levels are more than enough, you will change your oil before the zinc issue becomes an issue.
I would't worry about the TBN numbers, the fuel purchased today is very. very low in sulfer. Flash point, your Valvoline is good to 470+ no worry, if your oil temp is 470 you will have other major things to worry about, pour point who cares, it's a boat, water is pretty hard at 30F.

My 2 cents.

Ken

Thanks, I'll switch to some 20/50, btw, I took a look at my K/N filter and it does say made in USA, if we still consider California parts of the US.

I believe that the K & N filters are now being made overseas where as they used to be made here; however, I may be mistaken and if I am, I apologize.

[QUOTE=Kidnova;2897665]With 20hr changes SilverCap would probably suit your needs. The base content and zddp levels are a bit lower I think. But still good stuff. Certainly better than dino oil.

I have news for you, the 4-ball wear test is a gimmick. Has no relevance to what goes on inside an engine. It's been discussed at length on bobistheoilguy.com. It's used as a pre-screen to test additives.

It's called marketing.

But they do compare 4-ball results to their competitor's products and if they are "ahead" sometimes... as you mention it... may indicate at least a stout anti-wear additive presence in their oils? That could be good?

What about custom blend oils? Haven't seen any info on that. I have access to someone who says he does custom blends for people and has been doing it for years. What can these people do and what would the be the ideal oil if he could do whatever you wanted?

So he's an "oiltender" of sorts...but never went to "oiltender" school?

All the mixing I need is done at my favorite pub.

To answer your question for example.....Mobil + Amsoil = Mobsoil (sounds like something that Capone' would use in the getaway car). ;)

:ernaehrung004:

V-twin is getting hard to find up here. One local distributor needs $12 per quart. Where are you finding it in bulk and approximately how much is going for?

If I wanted to change from Valvoline VR1 40w and Wix Racing Filter, what do you recommend? I have a pair of 540s that are two years old. Would like to run the oil for the season, 25 hours. Maybe the Wix filter is ok? Thanks.

I wouldn't think you would see info on that.

Most people who want custom blended oils don't want the world to know what it is. A sample of the oil and an analysis of the sample will put you into the formula though.

I would guess if you are running an Indy car and needed a "real special" tranny oil with additional anti-wear, say moly instead of the more conventional stuff and a real thin synthetic base stock you would have to go custom blending.

In the real world, I can't see any advantage. Products on todays shelves are the best they have ever been, sure you can debate the zinc levels, TBN numbers, drain intervals, etc
but when was the last time someone used a ridge reamer to remove pistons? It was common practice to stay away from an engine with 100,000 miles, now we are wearing our cars milage as a badge of honor. Sure machining and metalurgy have all become better, but so has the oil.

Custom blends, not practical fo Joe consumer in my opinon.

Just my 2 cents.

Ken

I'd use the AMSOIL Dominator 15w-50 Racing Oil. The Wix filter will be fine.

That's what " 2000 lb Gorilla Oil" can cost these days...and yes...it can be worth it.....especially in the big expensive engines like Merc's 700- 1050's..:kiss:

If you can't find it...then this is "equivalent" from Amsoil and very easy to get. If you get an associate membership (cost of $10.00.. it will allow 20% off your purchases for six months".

With the 20% discount (in gallons with discount) final price is $ 8.43/qt...that's a deal.

Both V-Twin and Amsoil Motorcycle Oil have outstanding anti-rust properties...this allows storage for extended periods without fogging..incase you forget of course. ;)

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcv.aspx

We need to get an oil analysis on this newer oil...see what's in it...:bigbird:

That is a big price difference for the same product. What is up with Mobil 1? Meaning, why so hard to find nowadays?
.

Do you know how to tell what the shelf life is? If you bought a 30 gallon drum, how fast would you need to use it before it goes bad?
.

Mobil just "reformulated" M-1 10W-40 MX4T Motorcycle and now it's called Racing 4T.

(Reformulations can sometimes be another word for replacing a base oil that is not as costly).

It's possible that as MX4Twas reformulated...V-Twin may be next in line.

I asked that question of the owner of a "15 minute" Quaker State" oil change center. Lots of 55 gallon drums of oil ..pressure dispensing equiptment hooked up...basically a "sealed" system.

How long does the manufacturer say it's good for?

Response..

Must avoid humidity and temperature changes that might cause condensation. That being said...I was told a couple 2-3 yrs.

-Wal Mart up here has M1 V-Twin for $8.97/qt.

Mobil 1 V-twin
 

check amazon.com, I bought 20qts. on 7/07/09 for $8.33qt.

That's a great price for V-twin

Same price around Houston in Walmart, Autozone is more but will price match.

It's probably already in this thread somewhere but as far as dino oil, how does the Vavloline VR1 50W race oil rank these days? Supposedly they're high in Zinc and phosphorous???? The off-road Vavloline race oil is supposedly even higher.

You really don't hear anybody talk bad about the VR1 product lines. It's just a difference between the dino and synthetic oils. As far as finding out exactly how much zinc of phosphorus is in a certain oil, that's hard info to find in most cases because that's like Valvoline telling everybody exactly how much of what is in there products.

VR-1 was analyzed a while ago on Bob's site..it was found to be low in ZDP...like 900 ppm. Sad

Much better off using 15W-40 Rotella. More ZDP and detergency as well.

I got a couple PM's about which conventional oils would "I" use...

Merc 25W-40

Rotella 15W-40

Delo 15W-40

Castrol GTX 20W-50

Kendall 20W-50

Penzoil SAE 40

Penzoil 20W-50

Bradd Penn 15W-40 or 20W-50

I think Bradd Penn HP is one to strongly consider!

http://www.bradpennracing.com/Zinc.html

http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/SAE15W40.html

Got a PM as to what one or two conventional oils I would use.

#1 Bradd Penn 20W-50

#2 Merc 25W-40


How's that?:lolhit:

Call you post the oil analysis on these two oils?

I am also interested in how the Amsoil 20w50 Motorcycle Oil compares to the old Amsoil Series 2000 20W50 racing oil for which I have my own analysis report that I posted earlier.