milkshake or condensation
07-03-2018, 03:53 PM
#21
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The second one looks better but what really concerned me(for what its worth) is the amount of milkshake on the heads and rockers....it looked really milky up top there...do you still have the second oil?? maybe just the different camera angle makes it look better??
Is this the first milkshake problem?? as in these 2 oil drains are the only ones you had with milky oil??
Is this the first milkshake problem?? as in these 2 oil drains are the only ones you had with milky oil??
07-03-2018, 03:57 PM
#22
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Also in the pic of the rockers...it looks foamy....in my experience it only gets foamy like that from a water leak...not condensation but idk could be wrong....I would suggest pressing up your water system as someone suggested earlier...it will tell you right away if theres a leak
07-03-2018, 03:58 PM
#23
Platinum Member
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iTrader: (6)
What oil is this ?? the second one ( just drained ) looks like baby poo.....not good
07-03-2018, 11:37 PM
#25
Registered
If the head bolts go in to the water jackets, what sealer did you use?
It's been suggested to use " leak lock" in the blue jar, I got mine at the local HVAC supply.
You can search for leak lock here on the forum.
07-06-2018, 07:49 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
We have been camping for the 4th so I just tore the motor down and from what I can see there is no leakage from the head gasket, intake to head is also leak free. I really think that the block has a crack someplace from having the sleeves put in. I did not have this issue before. I can get a deal on Merlin IV blocks so I am probably just going to build a 540.
I did look and all of my head bolt holes are blind and all intake bolts do not look like any leakage.
The milkshake oil (first time) was Lucas 20w50 break in oil. Second oil is Brad Penn 20w50 semi-synthetic (what I normally run).
I plan on having my oil cooler pressure tested as well.
Thanks for responses.
I did look and all of my head bolt holes are blind and all intake bolts do not look like any leakage.
The milkshake oil (first time) was Lucas 20w50 break in oil. Second oil is Brad Penn 20w50 semi-synthetic (what I normally run).
I plan on having my oil cooler pressure tested as well.
Thanks for responses.
07-09-2018, 08:54 AM
#29
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Thread Starter
When I put the motor back together I installed the cam in straight up instead of 2 degrees advanced and I see no signs of reversion. Both rebuilds had less than an hour of run time. The first time I drained between 8 and 9 gallons of oil and water out of the pan/block so I doubt reversion would push that much water into the engine. I had a crane 651 on order but didn't arrive before I put the motor together. Might try the Crane 651 when I rebuild it again.
This is what I drained the first time plus it blew who knows how much out of the breather/overflow tank into the bilge area as the motor was full of water/oil and still ran decent.
This is what I drained the first time plus it blew who knows how much out of the breather/overflow tank into the bilge area as the motor was full of water/oil and still ran decent.
07-09-2018, 07:51 PM
#30
Registered
you don't get condensation in a day. you put it together with clean new oil and it turned milky in a half hour? water is getting in. i cut a board and drilled it for blocking the water ports on the heads. then block and heads can be pressure tested with no intake on there. bought a crossover and blocked one side off so one side can be pressure tested at a time.
