Guys,

Maybe it's my lacking Google skills....

Can anyone tell me the filtration size for the K&N3002(3)? I can't find anything about it anywhere. All the links that pop up only parrot what K&N has on their website. I don't really need to know the OD and OAL......

Thanks. Brad.

Smitty,

Coming from a machining vantage point, that sounds incredibly large. I have course lapping compound with smaller grit particle size than that. I can't imagine anything that large flowing toward a main journal. Ick....

Thanks. Brad.

Made in the USA.

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-z-ro...motor-oil-zrd/

Anyone run amsoil, debating running Z-rod 10w40 this season for the high Zinc in it.

ouch!

Joey,

I'm getting ready to switch to their 20w50. Got the oil and K&N filter; just waiting for the oil temp sender from Gaffrig to arrive so I can do the modifications to the filter mount during the oil change. I opted out of the Z-Rod formula. The standard 20w50 says "High Zinc" on the jugs. Not sure how much is in either.

The reports I read on scorch tests and such, and insight from here on OSO, leads me to believe AmsOil is about as good as it gets.

Thanks. Brad.

I ran Amsoil Dominator in my last boat for a minute. If you believe the interwebs, Bob Teague likes it.

I personally see no problem running a 15-50 synthetic, 50 indicating the strength of the film. Poor marine engines are always in heavy load mode and up in rpm's. Size of the boat and weight determines the demands put on your engine/engines and may be just one of the reasons I see the results I do with my filter/oil combo which can not be denied. 25' cat and very little drag. One size does not fit all in our world.

0.0025" main bearing clearance is 63 microns.

There's studies that say small 20 micron cause the most wear and many that don't.
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The crank won't stay perfectly centered within the bearing, and when loaded, likely bends taking up much of the clearance. 20 micron contaminants would start contacting at 0.0008".

Soot will wear down parts by abrasion, but that is more a diesel issue.

There are other methods to polish the oil in the pan or dry sump tank. Use an additional small flow higher pressure electric pump that flows oil just through a finer filter and back into the pan.

Where is the contamination coming from?
How clean is the air going into the engine?

I was running mercruiser 15w50 in my stock 502 Mag but I want to be sure I run what's best for the new engine. It has about 8hrs on the engine so I would assume switching to a full synthetic is fine now.