yes. we do it all the time on dyno stuff with a serp belt

Johnny,

Yes..." Which? I mentioned two options. (Sorry, Bad habit)

Thanks. Brad.

If you can not run it at all thats the easiest. With your serpentine belt setup, that is a little difficult. Looping the pump in a circle (preferably through the cooler, but ok if not) is a great option when taking the belt off isnt.

Johnny,

So, if we are headed to the dyno, I need to sort out how to connect the rack ends of the two hoses.....

I have to ask.... I guess we can't just let it run empty? I'm guessing it uses the fluid to lubricate and cool the seals and such...?

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

Anybody have any idea what the high pressure hydraulic port size is on the steering rack? The low pressure port is M16X1.5. The high pressure port is slightly smaller and appears to have a little finer threads. I can get an M14X1.25 tap to start, but it tightens up, and I'm not willing to push it (I don't want to bugger the threads up or introduce chips into the hydraulic system). Minor diameter of the threads is right at Ø.500, measured with calipers, which lines up with the M14 theory. I'm not in a position to measure the actual hose end fitting, but I'm trying to sort out the details for new hoses and such. Looking to convert to 6AN connections, as that is what the OEM oil cooler has that we are repurposing for the PS cooler. This will also make closing the loop for a dyno session REALLY easy.

Thanks. Brad.

We always loop it around. The other plus is with it, alternator, sea water pump and circ pump on as well as the exhaust you will be using, you get a true Dyno number. Not the hero numbers a lot like to post.

Guys,

So, some updates on the project….

Engine is 99% done. All that left is the raw water, fuel, oil and PS plumbing that will remain attacked to the engine. Harness is complete. I will likely have to order a set of harness extensions to reach where I located the ECM. NBD. I’ll hopefully get some pics tonight.

Spoke with the builder, and he agrees. Dyno time. Spoke with the machine shop with the dyno. Cost is not prohibitive. They can’t facilitate the wet exhaust, but they can plumb the raw water supply from and drain to a holding tank. So, we will have everything for the finish build involved in the dyno session except the exhaust risers and extended elbows.



Made a union adapter for the PS line for to be looped together during the dyno session. I’ve since machined a hex on it for a wrench. The threads are M14X1.25 for anybody interested.

Couple updates with the boat…




Picked up a used sea strainer. I had to modify/re-fabricate the mounting bracket to get it to fit in about the only space I had for it. Pretty sure it’s plenty big enough. FYI…. I significantly overestimated the amount of suction side hose I’d need. I’ll probably go ahead and replace all my like-sized hoses since I’ve got it, but I’ll undoubtedly have a fair bit left over if anybody might be in need of some. It’s the good, non-collapsible stuff; 1-1/4” ID.




Found a cool M16X1.5 to 6AN adapter for the PS return line that has to be remade as a result of repurposing the OEM oil cooler as the PS cooler. I had intended to remake the high pressure side, but have since decided it’s not worth the effort. It seems the connections on both ends are more work than they are worth. The hose is intact and looks to be in pretty good shape. I’m just gonna leave the unbroken unbroken.

Hopefully, I’ll have some REAL updates sooner than later. The weather is starting to break in SW Ohio. Time to get the PQ back in proper working order.

Thanks. Brad.

Will you be able to use your exhaust just not with water? Most I have done have been dry so that never came up.

Wildman,

Shop headers. I wouldn't think it would be a good idea to run the stock manifolds and elbows dry. I know this will change the tune a bit, but, as Johnny said, we'll only be "mostly" there on the dyno anyhow.

Thanks. Brad.

theres a brass coupler that connects the 2 ends of the oem hoses together.I think its a merc part.