For him maybe.
Glad it`s not a per HR. charge at least.

Dan,

To be fair, I bought the ECM and harness used, and he had no idea the harness was not going to be a full LS style harness. I can't fault him for that. He could have just tossed it back at me and told me I was going to have to buy the right harness. He's trying to save me some money. He doesn't believe in raking people for everything their worth. Like I said, he enjoys building engines, and he makes enough at his day job to support his needs.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

Good, bad or otherwise, we decided to forego the dyno session. There were just too many concessions needed for the dyno shop to be able to run the engine. Between the closed cooling and the wet exhaust, the tune we'd get would have been arbitrary at best, and I felt like we were unravelling too much of the ball of yarn. So, we said farq it and dropped it in the boat this last Sunday. The builder was under some time constraints, and I was getting impatient to get it done, and then we had to take a couple runs at it, removing the oil cooler to make room, which ate up a fair bit of time. In our haste, we forgot the anti-rotation tabbed washers that go between the motor mounts and mounting pads. He had them laying there on the floor, so my guess is he was planning on putting them in place after we got the engine in place, before dropping it down on the mounting pads. But that didn't happen and here we are. So.....

Couple questions... Are they absolutely necessary? It's hard for me to imagine them turning once the motor mount nuts are tightened down, but I also figure there's a reason they are in place to begin with. The builder told me he doesn't use them on his boat and has never had an issue. I know that doesn't make them irrelevant. What's the thoughts on tilting the engine forward and/or sideways enough to get the mounts over the studs enough to sneak them in? There is a fair bit of stud sticking up above the motor mounts, and they seem to be fairly snug clearance over the studs, that might be a challenge; avoiding damaging the mounting pads. It's also been suggested to forego them, mark the nuts and keep an eye on them to see if they are turning. I know I REALLY don't relish the idea of pulling it back out of the boat, but....

Suggestions?

Thanks. Brad.

Pics of the washer you are talking about? If it's what I'm thinking of it's critical for engine to outdrive alignment

Edit: I think you are talking about front motor mounts and I'm talking about rear

Ryan,

Correct. The front motor mounts.



These thingies. They were bent over the nut before, but I’ve straightened them for adjustment, then they get bent over the nut again.

Thanks.

Did you use any lock tight? You would be amazed what will loosen up in a boat.

Wildman,

I wouldn't think LocTite would work very well, as you would have to apply it before setting the engine, and, by the time you got around to making adjustments, it would have set. Once set, if you turn the nut (assuming you were using a removable formula), you very likely lose the "lock".

Thanks. Brad.

They turn, many engines fall out of adjustment because of those mounts and take out a coupler or transom assembly, bend the tabs over the nut and put a hose clamp around to keep it from spinning

they are important. Boatnt hit the nail on the head. About all you could do is carefully mark the uppers and maybe locktite them so you can see when (not if) the mount drops. You will be able to bring it back up with the lower nut.

Johnny, BoatNT,

As I said, I was assuming to worst; that they exist for a reason. And probably a hard learned reason.

I’m working on it. I have a plan to use a forklift to lift it by the exhaust manifolds just enough to sneak them in place.

Thanks. Brad.