after some research and reading, and advice from the tech guys i have an order placed for the material to bond in the patch.
then another phone call to get straightened out on a technical question regarding what the tech guys said,
now i think i have a schedule to follow.

clean out original patch seam with multi tool
635 epoxy mixed w/ 404 thru a caulk gun into seam
apply 635 to transom and patch wait approx 40 minutes. (hot coat / absorbent coat )
wet out 1700 (no mat)
instal patch,

patch will be drilled and bolted into place using the top 6 bravo bolt holes @ aprox. 10 pounds of torque while the 635 cures for up to 18 hours.

once cured the bolts get removed and the bolt holes will get doweled, the seam around the new patch will get 635 mixed w/ 404 syrnged into it
and the patch glassed over as follows;

4 layers of 1700 w/ the 635 epoxy. after freshening up the area w/ a new 36 grit pad.
not sure what is needed to rustoleum paint over the epoxy after it's cured.

but the phone call and time explaining it to me was greatly appreciated, the technical stuff really goes over my head.
thanks dave.

anyone see 's a problem with how i plan to bond in and glass over the patch, please feel free to chime
in and voice your opinion / set me straight.

thank you

Just found this thread. Very good looking work man.

thank you,
went thru your 300 thread, and think you did a great job.
following yours and endeavors 38 thread with interest as well.

ups brought epoxy and related materials today so transom patch will happen over the weekend weather permitting.

bonding in the transom patch
 

the multi tool was used to clean out the seam since there was some voids in it
then the seam got a coat of 635 epoxy.
after the suggested amount of wait time i had some 635 mixed with 404 hi density filler and some 1700 strands.

i cut a strip 50 inch x 1 inch of 1700 and pulled it apart till there was just a pile strands.
the thought was it would be stronger like fibrous concrete or throwing steel in concrete.

the mix went into an empty caulk gun tube, from there into a plastic syringe
nice thing about the syringe, it hits bottom so squeeze and pull out over and over fills the gap with no air.
use the tube for big gaps and syringe for tighter gaps

the result was less than perfect,
went a little light on the 404 so the mix was a bit runny, and swiping it with the bondo spreader
pulled the strands and made it worse, so i filled the gap till the mix was gone and just in case had a tube of 610
on stand by and finished it off with the syrnge and swiping it till it stopped sagging, 5 minutes or so.

it's filled solid now, say 50 50 with the mix and 610, but 610 is made from 635 resin and 406 filler,
610 is supposed to be a premixed gap filler / bonding adhesive so i'm confident.

24 hours later the seam is cured and the surface was re ground,
when i put the mix in, the 4 middle bravo holes got filled so the idea of using 6 bolts to clamp the patch
in place went out the window.
the patch and transom got a coat of 635 resin and after the suggested wait time,
2 layers of 1700 got dry rolled onto the patch, then a batch of 404 got mixed and a thin layer swiped on the transom
where there was some multi tool marks, old dowels and splinters of wood missing here and there.

the transom jig was used to hold and clamp in the bottom, the patch was pre drilled in 9 places and it got screwed on
lowest to highest, as the bolt and screws were snugged up 404 and 635 squeezed out from the seam, so again,
confident that the patch is bonded in good.

tomorrow we can all have a good laugh when the transom jig ends up being bonded to the outside

had a good plan
 

pressed a piece of cardboard under a piece of 3/4 marine ply under the truck tire.
cut to the exact size of the glass and skinned the cardboard with wax paper and blue tape.

4 layers of 1700 all cut real nice and marked for centerline
boat marked for centerline.

hardener and epoxy pre poured
404 filler pre mixed.

boat got a hot coat and after the appropriate waiting time,
(hardener cup rolled around to coat cup, resin poured into that)

mix 404,syrnge in and swipe
mix and wet out glass smallest to biggest stacking it up, then using the marks put it on the transom
and the air bubble roller to work it all out.
good plan, execution, well !

Nice work! Very informative. Gotta follow this, this type of work is my very weak spot.

thank you,
my weak spot too, just checked it, it looks real nice and is dry to the touch
next week the hole will be re cut cleaned up and epoxy 1700. then it can start getting put back together

I just found this thread ,,wow u are doing a great job on it,,I had the first one out of the mold Steve is my good friend ,,Had it rigged with a mild big block 500+ hp bravo drive 18 1/2 up went 78 no problem loved the boat went thru anything I will see if i can find some pics ,,looked the same all white,,but mine had the cockpit back seat 2 bolsters up front,,,

lightspeed, thank you.

i hope steve feels the same way.
would be great if you dug up some pics of yours, did yours have a cabin as well as the cockpit bathtub.
powering mine with a 496 mag ho, X is 17 9/16 square method, so prop should be at 4 1/4, and i'd be happy
if it ran a well mannered 70, with a mirage plus (pitch to be determined)

Looking great OOS!

go up to 181/2 planes off no problem

the transom is already cut.
2 layers of 1700 around the opening and it starts to go back together.

glassing the cutout
 

after 4 days the patch was cut out and the hole cleaned up, the transom assembly went on for a look see, and i think there is
enough wiggle room to ensure it goes on plumb and on center once it goes on for good.
so while the weather is good might as well glass it.

when the cut out got it's hot coat the bolt holes were taped off and all 8 got filled with 635 epoxy
10 minutes later the tape got pulled and mess cleaned up.

the cutout got 1 layer of 1700 in 635 epoxy, the second layer just made a mess, so it had to come off.
if it's critical the opening needs another layer i'll grind and put another layer on, anyone ?

you can see the 2 layers the patch got bonded on with and the 4 layers it got covered in on the scraps

u better put the gimbel on and turn it make sure the steering arm dosnt hit the transom on the inside,

good spot, the steering arm gets cut off.

hardware for engine mounts won't be here till the 10th -11th, so all the little side jobs are on deck
plus i think upholstery will be done today, early next week at latest.

Come on now where's the updates? :)

hey, it's january, we had a couple weeks of sub 70 degree weather and it might have rained 4 times this month !

bilge is all painted and ready, all transom thru holes got epoxy soaked.

kplanes, backing plates, backing washers, imco driveshaft, battery box, and misc. stuff all painted
floor and tank bumpstops, etc all the hardware is here and on deck.

went to nut and bolt company today, got everything but 4 bolts

went to hydraulic company today, brought in a pipe plug and h20 sensor, said i needed a reducer
the guy never picked it up, just went in back and brought out the correct part.
obviously i found the right place, they make lines and have every fitting you could ever want,
even tho i have no idea what it is, but jic, an, npt, swivels quick disconnects, you name it.

ordered the gas tank today, 65 gallon bolt in, .125 thick t-5052 h32 marine aluminum, no idea what that all means,
w/ 2 1/2 pick ups, and a mechanical sight gauge
some special non carbon insulating hi density rubbery something and all neccessary hardware, hoses etc.
not the 3/8 supply hose, i'll get that local.

the transom assy, drive, exhaust, all of it in the house, stacked up / lined up ready to go
can't wait till the house is a house again

so a couple errands for 610, 5200, 4200 and some more 4000 a another can of phantom black for touch
and some special antiseize and it can start getting assembled, weather permitting

WOW! I wish I had them kind of fiberglassing skills and enthusiasm. Beautiful work.............

Looking nice buddy. Loooking forward to seeing your boat done.

Not sure if your familiar with a product called "TEF-GEL, but we use it in my business here on the gulf coast exclusively for anti-size and thread lubricant to keep SS-bolts and nuts from galling. We even use a thin film of it on the flair and flair nuts for A/C flair fitting connections.
Really good stuff!
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/tef-gel--corrosion-eliminator-and-anti-seize-lubricant-tube-with-applicator-20cc--P012222212?pCode=12222212&mrkgcl=481&mrkgadid=3252 241789&rkg_id=h-528c6287c2179dc9cb41591446879763_t-1517402963&cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC%2520-%2520Product%2520Type-_-12222212&product_id=12222212&adpos=1o1&creative=10 8421551244&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&mrkgadid= 3252241789&mrkgcl=481&rkg_id=0&gclid=CjwKCAiA78XTB RBiEiwAGv7EKiZIERfIyy-XGe9ToIlkacF55bm_AqpmNsDyGBPogp29H4OyrY7vBBoCBZ0QA vD_BwE

thank you,
been keeping an eye on yours as well, my boat has some spider cracks on the deck same location as yours (right at the fairing)
and my boat is cored there. i'm convinced it's the sharp turn in the glass rather than a more gentle curve.
like a sharp turn on a road thru a cornfield some where, every now and then there's a new set of skid marks going right off !

gmsinc,
thank you for the compliments, but in truth i'm just an amateur.
heading up to west marine today so i will try that teff gel thank you.

so my friend jeff, with permission,
driscoll's auto interiors malabar fl. specializing in hot rods, private airplane interiors, and boats. in business for close to 30 years.


the only request was keep the lightning bolts, it can have more seams than frankenstein, i don't care !
it's his calling card and in my opinion, the end result is awesome the material is nice,
it's really gonna pop once it get's installed. couldn't be more satisfied with the quality of work.

it's 6' 6" wide by 5' 4" long, all 1 piece so i guess that made it a pain, plus no staples in the nidacore.

painfully slow rigging, everything gets drilled, dry fit, masked off then 5200 or 4000 applied depending on where it's located.
every nut and bolt got a swipe of some special anti sieze lubricant called tef gel, that was recommended by member gcmsinc,
awesome stuff, everything goes together very smooth with it.

had help for some things this weekend because 1 person can't reach both sides of the nuts and bolts.
transom assembly almost went on until it was learned i have the wrong exhaust block off plate.

big reward tho, with the hatch and bolster installed it looks good, fits good and leaning the backrests at 6 -7 degrees make it
very comfortable to stand in w/ lots of leg room and room for footrests. the back rests are w/ in 1 inch of the original height
and have 2 inch foam on them now. calling the bolster a win.

alot is going on and getting done but they come apart alot easier and faster than they go back together, so it's painfully slow but moving


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8f4138a4f5.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0c7e1f17e6.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c8e90a3654.jpg

Looks super nice Dan. I wish I was as far along as you...

^^^^^^^ thank you, wish mine was going as fast as yours !

here's a day, 24 holes drilled for ---- 4 snaps, 18 nuts and bolts, 8 are back out so i could 610 the big holes for the steering column.
so 16 and 4 snaps are in w/ 4000 and 2 have 5200.

homemade backing washers where their needed behind the dash, front gas tank bumpstops are in,
and the fill / vent cutout got 2 layers of 1700.

steering and grab handle can go either port or starb, the throttle assy is reversible.
have the option of either 2 single function sticks, or the dual function w/ trim button that's installed.
they all use the same bolt holes.

floor opens up a mile, should be able to put the tank in without taking the floor out.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1ca8cabf5e.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c8097df906.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...26b7bec6bf.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7916b4ddd4.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ca1de82047.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b73960ac67.jpg

What diameter pipe did you use for rigging tubes? Any goals for a splash date? Warm weathers around the corner.

made a 24 degree cradle/sled, it's flat side to side where the engine sits for sliding, wiggling and shimming into alignment.
in the pics, the engine is within 1/4 inch front to back of final install, and within a 1/4 below the correct elevation.
tomorrow the coupler goes on then i'll start shimming.

looks like the seastrainer can get mounted inboard on the starb stringer between the rear mount and starb tab pump.
also looks like the drive trim pump can get mounted inboard on port stringer between the rear mount and port tab pump.
both of which would go a long way keeping the rigging clean

meanwhile the 496 is getting some attention as well, once it's done and the boat is 100 percent ready for it, those pics
will go up.

( hint the complete remote oil filter head, oil cooler, pwr steering cooler, the air system, all lines and bracketry
along w/ the aluminum exhaust w/ stainless risers and bellhousing will be in the swap shop before this week is over )




https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9b8509a0e3.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6bb997b946.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...981f600039.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ddfe85b7f7.jpg

Love the rebuild!

what is the blue bucket for? nice work by the way!

thanks guys,
the chain for the hoist goes in the bucket so it doesn't scratch the boat

an update full of setbacks, all mechanical
 

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4b1742b48a.jpg

sea pump and cool fuel were tapped several months ago and boxed up.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fe54859e17.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...696a95772d.jpg

whole idea about tapping the sea pump and cool fuel was to eliminate the leak points and eliminate the meter (pictured) and run water from the pump to the cool fuel then overboard.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5b74cca0f6.jpg

the cool fuel water overboard thru the old steering thru hull came about once the transom was layed out for the new steering and you could see the distance from the original steering to the new.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b932c29c91.jpg

since the original steering thru hulls aren't being used on the port side any way, no problem dowel the holes

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fa3bd93a29.jpg

wack in some 1708

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...386efd9aec.jpg

knock off the high spots

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ddb7dc0904.jpg

clean sand fair and schloop on the gel. finished product came out nice. it'll probably crack and pop out !

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...48f626b29b.jpg

the pump pads get glass on 1 side so when they're installed the bottom isn't bare wood

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...90f491822e.jpg

they got located when the alignment was being done

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...133a2bcb9b.jpg

plenty of access

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5c7ab11145.jpg

glassed in

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a9a1edcff6.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...cec3d4af8a.jpg

THE KIT, well the relocation kit didn't need much modification and the stock wires for the exhaust sensors are long enough. except the whole port side of the wiring harness needed to be unwrapped to move the pcm to the new plate it was a full day.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b3564bd856.jpg

but the hoses for the water tube will not not work. on the port side they let the tube lay on the engine mount. on both tubes, the hose fittings don't line up w/ the hose fittings on the exhaust. the stock hose from the engine isn't anywhere near the end of the tube which is fine because the alternator is blocking it anyway. this tube will have to be plumbed in backwards.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4f38232fb3.jpg

on the starboard side, it's a total mess the hoses won't work at all. the tube will only work if it's plumbed in backwards because of the cool fuel. no big deal, the stock hose is no where near the end of the tube. that's o.k. because it will not fit between the engine and cool fuel and it;s brackets. plus on the starb side 6 of the 8 header bolts that need to be torqued cannot be accessed w/ a socket and barely w/ a box wrench.
so the starb side will leak and crack first i guess ?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...75a32f0b7a.jpg
see what i'm saying

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9ae266da32.jpg
i'm adding "kit" to the an, jic, npt, inverted flair, dash dot metric oring abortion, hoses, don't forget the hoses.
now i know why you engine guys stand next to your builds like a proud papa w/ a hand on the header,
it's because you found all the external parts that work and fit on that engine.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6db950baef.jpg

below pic of the inner transom plate was also done a while ago, it needed to be trimmed for the hydraulic lines.
thats all on me, the inner plate is for an extension box.
thread links that maybe should've just been on this thread.
https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...er-runout.html

https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...rection-2.html

https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...ly-cr%40p.htmlhttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...78254bd836.jpg

wow! that's some serious work right there!!!

think this is the last thread that should've just been included here

https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...ml#post4624307

drive lube pump and filter bracket
 

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1e06d7a4d2.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1f5afd6381.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...91129f7874.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...29b4953011.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...688e8d7bbe.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2931621181.jpg

You are doing an amazing job! Did you mount your battery in the bottom of the bilge, in order to get the weight as low as possible?

^^^^, thank you
yes, everything except kplanes and pumps are mounted in between the stringers and as low as possible.
the pumps are mounted on the stringers but outboard of them.
maybe the trim pump can go inboard, don't know yet because the drive lube pump is there.
there is another battery tray glassed in just like the rear one at the front of the gas tank in case the boat needs more weight up there.
the gas tank is 3 1/4 inches lower than the stringers, but that was only for the mounting tabs and fill / vent could clear the floor.

the tank has been in for a while, in fact it's been out twice to verify and adjust the rubber strips it sits on are placed correctly.
open and remove the floor up forward and the tank goes in and out thru the opening in the back of the bolster.
i'll get pics up of the install.

been a while since you and heath updated your threads, heath is working on the 30 tho, so hows yours going ?
i'll admit the oil line -an jic dash dot dot dash inverted flair crap has me at wit's end, all the kit stuff has been a royal pain.
needing either mods or different parts. i do this again it wont be sterndrive, it's all crap !

I'll be posting some progress tomorrow. I've had to take the past few weekends off, due to other projects that needed to be dealt with. Today I cut and installed the forward engine bulkhead. I cut out the the one I made a month ago because it was crooked. With the new one, I made it one sold piece. I want to stiffen up the boat as much as I can, and the factory bulkhead was a joke.

finally plumbed in. the new oil lines from russel are 100 times better easier and faster than the fragola.
was able to make a big s turn hose so the oil could flow counter to the water.

class 6 suggested the flexfab hose and the stuff is awesome. it bends and twists right around and thru
places without getting kinked.
all of the hose fits well with no pinch points or areas of concern.
as it turns out the port exhaust could get plumbed in from the front and since port runs hotter
it'll probably stay this way even tho it doesn't match.
but i rigged it both ways and packed the reversed set up away.

same for starboard, i plumbed it reverse, only way it would work, but plumbed it to run with or without
the meter that sends water to the cool fuel.
the switch is easy, everything between the sea pump and p/s drive cooler comes off.
and the other hose and 3 npt to hose barb fittings go right in.

since the upper was modified and properly shimmed / set up by mr gadgets and the lower is new
i'll run it thru the factory suggested 10 hour break in period.
so, the meter will stay on during break in because i know it works, later it can be switched and we'll see how that works.

3 hose clamps, paint the oil cooler hangers, a once over and the engine is ready to go in !
hope i put the mounts in the right place !

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f557dfeca3.jpg

port in reverse
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9e05f5f303.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3b7a412187.jpg

port in front, all it needed was the kit hoses cut back 1/2 inch on each side and it fit there w/o issue.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1fbc67bedc.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6b976fc4c4.jpg

oil flow against water flow
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...156d1115db.jpg

drive and p/s steering cooler
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...cdb2e1b7fa.jpg

starboard plumbed in reverse with meter.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c02c10292a.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f11a894fe6.jpg

this is to run w/out the meter later on. water from seapump drain fitting goes into cool fuel then overboard.