Cool thread. Spent the last 2 hrs reading through it. I worked on commercial jets for abt 12 yrs. Most familiar with the JT8 engs (737-200's and 727's). Never worked on helis.

One of the interesting things I learned while reading this thread is the N1/N2 relationship. On the large turbines, the N1 is free wheeling and the N2 connects to the gear box. To start, we would spin N2 to ~20% (or max motoring speed) then add fuel..

Another thing I noticed, the ignitors are much more powerful on the large turbines. When they pop, it sounds like someone is inside the eng banging on the case with a small hammer!.
I was always a bit nervous replacing ignitor boxes.

Best part abt your project, no FAA inspectors looking over your shoulders and digging thru your paperwork.

Keep up the good work. Can't wait to hear it roar..

P.S. Your safety wiring looks to be improving as you go

Big turbo fans! I would love to see the inside of one.
on these 53,s the starter generator spins n1 (GP) then the fuel is added.
the n2 (PT) is there in the gp path extracting the energy then its shaft runs right thru the hole engine back to the
planetary s reducing it. Thats really the key to being able to use them in a boat,
The trick of being able to stop n2 while the gp is running and select a shift forward .neutral reverse.
I can only imagine the energy on the huge engines on the ignitors
the video i posted does not really show how intense the spark is.

If the FAA showed up at my joint they would lock my A$$ up
10-4 on the safety wiring i have been trying to get it. Dont laugh but i could feel it in my forearms
from the milbars.

i have a 1000ft lb torque wrench.
we had a couple guys hold the engine while i got my click.
Run out is about .001 over spec. thats about a human hair.
the rub is the spacer running the second nozzle which is actually floating if you look at the picture in post 439 see 1/4 inch holes around the cylinder nozzle?
inside is the nozzle floating I took a small punch and tapped it thru hole at 10 o clock and rub is gone.
Com buster (PT) is lowered down onto GP

Jim at PPS sent me the stainless versions of the i think 71 of these.

before dropping the combuster we need to find the mark mi made early in this thread.
we need to match up the marks.

the picture is terrible way down inside is the pt shaft which the marks are now realigned

the hollow shaft bolt is now dropped back in notice shims

dab a little nickel ease anti seize on the threads
torque to 200 inch lbs

like this

Thayts a perfect Now lets a C if the wheels pushing the TUB will hold the load of expected 1950 hp+ let the # 6's CRY on -