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Drive questions Teague/Imco/Bmax

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Old 03-19-2012 | 12:18 PM
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[QUOTE=KWright;3644498]
Originally Posted by offshorexcursion

KWright....Yes they are all the same "type" of drive, a surface drive. Whats your point?

My point is they all don't handle the same. NXT's do not work well with fountains. #6's do. no one one here has talked about how the asd works on their Fountain. KJM talks about his boat handling differently with the asd's. It will be nice to here what the diff. is. I'm sure it would be different if they were say #6's. I'm not knocking the asd's just trying to learn but everytime someone ask a question the answer is their the best, most speed gain' cheapest to convert, ect. Ok I would just like to ask someone who has walked those steps thats all, not putting you down but just not sure you can answer these from experience.
I understand what you are saying now, and agree. Every boat, driver, setup, is different. Very hard for any of us to "actually" know the truth unless we see it with our own eyes.

There are no threads showing that Arneson, or the X-Power is a bad drive, so imagine how frustrating it is that everyone doubts those drives and are not willing to give them a try!

No threads show any good from the SCX-4, but they are selling like hot cakes??? Why?? Don't know.

Why did everyone leave Myspace for Facebook when they all said they like myspace better?? And Facebook gets all the credit for "inventing" it!!!Weird how things work sometimes!

Not sure about the Fountains running better with the #6 over the NXT, but obviously the NXT has a blunt bullet, etc. The #6 might run better on every boat for all I know. But Does the NXT run better than a XR on a fountain? I bet it does not shred propshafts for breakfast!

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Old 03-19-2012 | 02:10 PM
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There are no threads showing that Arneson, or the X-Power is a bad drive, so imagine how frustrating it is that everyone doubts those drives and are not willing to give them a try!

Actually, there were several threads about the x-power drive a lil while back... but they were removed by the poster after a sealed settlement with the manufacturer was reached. From what I understand, it was a stipulation within the agreement. Maybe that guy will get back on here and describe some of his experience with them... Very cool looking drive though.


No threads show any good from the SCX-4, but they are selling like hot cakes??? Why?? Don't know.

I agree, and I dont understand it either.
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Old 03-19-2012 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Rik
100% YES! Read that again YES, I can sell you two ASD6 Drop Box Arnesons for $30K.. Every day of the week even.
But we arent talking about ASD6 drop box arnesons here, are we? I do believe this discussion evolved from a discussion about Teague vs Imco vs B-Max direct replacement drives, which morphed into a discussion about comparable drives, which I do believe would be the ASD7? The last time a talked to Rik about this conversion for my boat, it was gonna cost me 26k for a drive... Maybe I'm mistaken, what do I know.
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Old 03-19-2012 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SS930
Buy a number 6 boat to begin with, you're money ahead in the long run!
Well said! However, #6's arent without flaw either, I do believe thats why there is now an M8.
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Old 03-19-2012 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by waconda
Jerry is one that bought into the hype and now where is he?
Last I heard the Bmax was going back on!
All these folks want is the truth Rik so why not speak it and let the people who are spending the $$$ decide on what best fits their needs.
Rik no one on here is taking anything away from the reliability of your surface drive. A CV shaft is 1 tough part.
I'll Call B.S. The boat burned up due to fuel vapors igniting with the plugs out and coil still hooked up so how they are going to put anything back on it is beyond me especially when Jerry got rid if the BMAX before he ran the boat with the Arneson.
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Old 03-19-2012 | 03:10 PM
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So since this discussion has strayed so far off course from the original question, and since we're all here, and also since I've never been able to get an answer to a few question's that I personally feel are worth asking...

A.O. Razor or Rik- Let's hypothetically say a guy has a 26-30 ft single engine vee hull. Let's also say that guy want's to upgrade power substantially because he'd like to add some speed all across the board. Now let's factor in some reality- this guy's boat came with a bravo, like 95% of the other boat's out there within it's class. Now let's also say this guy's boat weighs about 6000-6500 lbs running weight, and that he'd like to run over 100mph, and it should also be noted that this is a straight bottom boat with a narrow beam. Something else that should probably be mentioned here, is that his bulkhead is part of the structure unlike some other boats- it isn't just a separation panel behind the seat which could easily be moved forward at the loss of cockpit space, it's actually a fiberglass part of the deck structure that quite simply- cannot be moved. Now with all that said, let's say this guy builds an engine that makes somewhere in the 1500+hp range because he's an idiot. If he was to use your bravo conversion, what would you think would fail first? Then second? How low in the boat would the engine have to be mounted to accomodate your drive to obtain proper propshaft height? I have read here in several places, as well as on your website, that your transmission is rated to around 750hp? How much stronger could it be made? See, this guy would be limited in his drive choices due to the fact that his engine compartment does not have the length to accomodate a transmission, unless it was mounted inside an extension box... such as your's. Moving beyond the transmission, the drive articulates up and down, as well as side to side for trim and steering, correct? So there must be some sort of u-joint or cv shaft employed in it's design? How much power would that assembly safely handle? In looking at some pictures of this setup on your website, I notice it only seems to have 1 trim ram, and 1 steering ram... If something were to happen to the cv shaft or u-joint assembly, such as a catastrophic failure, what would keep the prop and rudder assembly from turning to one side or the other uncontrollably... such as would happen in a gimbal ring failure? How many different gear ratio's do you offer this unit with? I would assume that such a boat as described here, probably wouldn't respond very well in the name of handling with a huge diameter/huge pitch prop, so maybe this particular boat would need to keep the pitch down, and the prop speed up to keep it from rolling with the exaggerated pitch that would be required by higher ratio drive and lot's of hp, but still be able to maintain engine rpm.... I'm not being fecetious, these are genuine question's I have asked in the past because I genuinely want to know, but have never been able to obtain answer's to. I think at this juncture, these are answer's that everyone considering such a conversion should be privvy to. This is not a cheap swap. We're talking about enough money for one to go buy a whole complete boat with, just for a pair of drive's. You have stated more than several times that these other companies do not offer a compete propulsion package that could be considered comparably priced, because they generally do not come with steering and trim systems... But the fact is, 95% of the boat's out there, came with bravos and this universal equipment from the factory... So why would they include it? Now I do understand that not all boats came with hydraulic steering, and that that cost should be factored in with such a conversion... But most of the boats that people would be considering for such an upgrade, probably did. So how is this a dollar for dollar camparison? I'm not trying to be a dick, and I apologize if I come off as such... But what gives? Let's put this issue to bed once and for all, and then maybe we can all stop wasting so many hours of our life trying to wade through the bs on so many of these pages? Tell us all how your product is so much better in each aspect of the application. I want to hear how much safer it is, and how much stronger it is, and what cannot fail... I'm sure we all do. We'll leave the install and setup details aside for this, because your right, all boats are going to need a prop and seat time figuring out setup- regardless of what drive you use.

I'm all ears sir... I'm sure we all are....
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Old 03-19-2012 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by lvrepoman
But we arent talking about ASD6 drop box arnesons here, are we? I do believe this discussion evolved from a discussion about Teague vs Imco vs B-Max direct replacement drives, which morphed into a discussion about comparable drives, which I do believe would be the ASD7? The last time a talked to Rik about this conversion for my boat, it was gonna cost me 26k for a drive... Maybe I'm mistaken, what do I know.
Sorry but I never quoted you or anyone 26K for a #7M drive kit. Sorry but that is beyond what they cost. As for the ASD6 Drive, well this is an apples to apples comparison as the other drives mentioned are not drives prices themselves. They are pieces of a drive assembly not a complete drive assembly. We to can sell a piece of a drive for less than a drive kit would cost. I am just up front about it telling you that there are more things needed than just a drive leg alone. Not every customer needs the entire kit nor a complete Bravo drive assembly as they might/do currently have part of the drive that is not needing replacing. This is what people are pricing and putting a competing object up against price wise is a bit misleading.
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Old 03-19-2012 | 03:27 PM
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[QUOTE=KWright;3644498]
Originally Posted by offshorexcursion

KWright....Yes they are all the same "type" of drive, a surface drive. Whats your point?

My point is they all don't handle the same. NXT's do not work well with fountains. #6's do. no one one here has talked about how the asd works on their Fountain. KJM talks about his boat handling differently with the asd's. It will be nice to here what the diff. is. I'm sure it would be different if they were say #6's. I'm not knocking the asd's just trying to learn but everytime someone ask a question the answer is their the best, most speed gain' cheapest to convert, ect. Ok I would just like to ask someone who has walked those steps thats all, not putting you down but just not sure you can answer these from experience.
Well, Fountain is, scratch that as they are not open for business or I could be wrong about that too, was putting the Arnesons on at the factory for the past 20 years so I'd say they work very well but so would others that have them. I more than understand your comments about owners stating their experience here on OSO but unfortunately not everyone is on OSO so it makes things a bit difficult when searching. Most that I have spoken to expressed the same comments. "They simply don't have the time to go on the internet"


Sorry 4195 that this has gotten so far off your subject on this thread.
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Old 03-19-2012 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Rik
I'll Call B.S. The boat burned up due to fuel vapors igniting with the plugs out and coil still hooked up so how they are going to put anything back on it is beyond me especially when Jerry got rid if the BMAX before he ran the boat with the Arneson.
Rik we are speaking of 2 different customers for the one that called me did not have a fire.
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Old 03-19-2012 | 03:32 PM
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Rik by the way Fountain is open I spoke with Craig 2 weeks ago.
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