View Poll Results: Synthetic oil or not?
Yes I use synthetic oil
301
65.72%
No I do not use synthetic oil
140
30.57%
Hell, I don't even know where the oil cap is
17
3.71%
Voters: 458. You may not vote on this poll

Like Tree0Likes

Poll: Synthetic engine oil or no?

Reply
Old 02-18-2003, 05:08 PM
  #61
bobby daniels
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by mcollinstn
MODVP

The only rolling-element bearings in an auto/marine I/O engine are the roller lifters and roller rockers (if it has them).

Those bearings will be under the same loads and conditions in a blower motor as they would be in a NA motor.

As far as roller lifters flatspotting, the Heavier or Thicker the lube film, the higher the chance of stalling the roller. AND it is more apt to occur at low rpm with heavy lube in a cold motor. One of synthetics' biggest advantages is its resistance to cold weather thickening.

The tips on roller rockers have been shown by high speed camera to either "not roll", or "roll backwards" at certain rpm. This behavior is more due to harmonics in a dynamic spring-loaded condition (think of those Gee Haw sticks where you make the propellor spin different directions) than any sort of lube film breakdown.

I notice your name MODVPSST. Your Merc outboards have rolling-element bearings all over them. The crank bearings, the rod bearings, all of them. I would recommend synthetic non-castor 2 stroke lube for you to run in them as well.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Very true MCOLLINSTN and thank you,,syn.are truly the way to go !!!
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2003, 05:51 PM
  #62
Registered
 
HyperBaja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lewis Center, Ohio
My Boats: 1990 Baja 190 DSR
Posts: 3,606
Default

1400-1500 hours, 4.3l no rebuild, everything stock, drive the crap out of it. Most of the time it is above 4k. Actually, the only time below 4k is through the no wake zones(I had it up to 5900 in a no wake zone once though, we were seeing how high it could go!!). Oil is regular merc stuff, changed every April. Regular oil is fine. If you are making lots of power, you might make a few more ponies by switching to synthetics.

Last edited by HyperBaja; 02-18-2003 at 06:38 PM.
HyperBaja is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2003, 12:32 AM
  #63
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
 
Quiet Storm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Lake Michigan
Posts: 1,683
Default

Every time one of these oil debates come up I read them intently to try and find the best answer to the question as to which oil is the best to use. Some use synthetic, some use regular, some the red stuff others the purple. And what about grades? Straight or multi? Everyone seems to have a different answer and everyone records some fantastic results. An engine builder told me not to use synthetics in my blower motors because if I get condensation in the motors I won’t know it because the synthetics are water rejecting. At least with regular oil if I see my oil turn into a milk shake I know I have a problem and can do something about it before I trash a motor. This sounded good but others say no.

How about just using what the engine manufacture recommends? Could there be some wisdom in his recommendations or are we all just a little bit smarter than he is?
Quiet Storm is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2003, 11:00 AM
  #64
bobby daniels
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Quiet, corvettes and vipers ect. come with mobile 1 that should help you some with your choice also put alittle water in a 3.99 bottle of mobile 1 , and tell me again it doesnt mix ,,,it does for sure ( I tried today,,bored ) again your engine builder is in the 70's,,,,,, syn. are even used in piston turbo air planes talk about condensation from 50 on the ground to 30 below at altitude under boost ,I use aeroshell and have it oil lab checked every time with great results ,,aircraft oils man difference is lack of ash for spark knock protection ,please use syn. its great and used in about every type racing you can name ,blown,turboed,ect.

Last edited by bobby daniels; 02-19-2003 at 11:03 AM.
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2003, 01:07 PM
  #65
Registered
 
mr_velocity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,084
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by CAP071
I was thinking of running REDLINE SHOCKPROOF OIL in my drive I hear it's great. but what weight do you run? Heavy, medium or lightweight?????? I seen it on www.fishermotorsport.com
I've run Redline Heavy shockproof in my Bravos from day 1, 1996. Broke my first and only drive in summer of 2000, this is on a 41 Velocity with 600s. Took two teeth off the pinion gear.
mr_velocity is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2003, 05:43 PM
  #66
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
 
mcollinstn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: tn
My Boats: 1991 F311SR1
Posts: 5,491
Default

All motor oils are formulated to coexist with a certain amount of water, synthetic or otherwise. Condensation is a very real and very well-known part of an auto engine's environment. The water issue is a non-issue when discussing motor oil.

Gear oil is a different story. Some gear oils will suspend water, others reject water. This is true of conventionals and synthetics both.

Mercruiser specs their gear lubes to absorb water better than others. This is a plus if you go long intervals before changing gear lube. It is also a plus if you wrap lots of fishing line around your propshaft (kills the seals).

I'd rather use the lube that gives the best chance for my Bravo to live. If that means keeping an eye out for water and changing more often, then that's fine with me.
mcollinstn is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2003, 07:53 PM
  #67
Registered
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Michigan
My Boats: It's how well you go fast
Posts: 3,345
Default

keep in mind that water is result of combustion kids.

funny,,,,,there is so much $$$ and politics in oil as well as auotomotive industry....kinda makes it very hard to find the truth.
audacity is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2003, 11:55 PM
  #68
Registered
 
WetKitty42's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Long Island
My Boats: Lumpy Old Resin Bucket
Posts: 817
Default

Mobil 1 15-50, but don't drip it in the bilge

Syn. Oil is a ***** to clean...
WetKitty42 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2003, 08:09 AM
  #69
Registered
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: s.c
My Boats: 2001 Warroir Power Cat
Posts: 134
Default

I run Amsoil,& use Napa Racing Filter's we do change it quiet frequently..so far so good.and after 2 season's of running hard & proper maintance.. i suppose any syn..oil will do. i run 2 10.71 littlefield blower's. not to say the engine's haven't let go. They have. but not from the oil.
MovinOn is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2003, 08:13 AM
  #70
Registered
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: s.c
My Boats: 2001 Warroir Power Cat
Posts: 134
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by WetKitty42
Mobil 1 15-50, but don't drip it in the bilge

Syn. Oil is a ***** to clean...
Psttttt..Spray it with purple stuff "degreaser" that will clean it quick.. just don't let it hit anything that has been powdercoated.. or you will---->>@%&*#%.
MovinOn is offline  
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Riverracer
General Q & A
54
05-30-2008 11:30 PM
Dave1972
General Q & A
38
10-14-2003 12:24 PM
Sydwayz
General Q & A
8
03-31-2002 06:43 PM



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:33 PM.


Copyright 2011 OffShoreOnly. All rights reserved.