Nope those blocks were cracked when I bought the boat. Hairline cracks from large coolant holes to the lifter valley on every hole. Couldn't even see them after I stoned the deck. But once they were baked they showed up. I think they both overheated What a shame. That's what neglect will do. The boat advertised as having cracked blocks because of water. I had to see for myself before trashing them.

I did drain the lower circulating pump hose before I started sucking. Then filled it through the top of that hose until it ran out the thermostat housing. Just for good measures, I pulled another 5 gal through the muffs on each drive to be sure the sea pumps and all of the coolers got their fair share. I typically don,t use any antifreeze, just drain everything, but on this boat it is just impossible to get to the drains. Motors are too close together and too close to the hull sides to do it. I needed a midget with 4' arms.

Wow what boat do yo have there

snap,i always remove the t stats on mercruiser engines before i winterize,then i let the raw water pump suck 8 gallon,s of the plnk stuff through the system,then i replace the t stat,i have been doing it that way for years and no cracked engine parts to date.i know a guy who never removes his t stats,he just runs the engine until it reaches operating temp then lets it suck the pink stuff until 6 gallons is gone.i am not much of a gambler so for me the extra 10 minutes to remove the t stats is time well spent.

Having a monkey with 4 ft arms and half a brain would be a tremendous asset while working on these boats. Last time I saw a midget he lost it driving one of my golf carts and took him a good 100 ft to get his chit together and back on track. Talk about funny. Regardless I'd gamble on the monkey with a set of snap on tools.

😀😂😃😃😄😅. Oh man. Anyway here is another way. I remove my outdrives every year. I start my engines without the outdrives on . Tap the plastic inlet suction hose fitting at gimble bell with 1/2 NPT about half of the thread deep. Home depot has brass garden hose to pipe fitting with either 1/2 npt or 3/4 npt. Put short length nipple on it and screw it in . Now a shortened garden hose will screw right into the fitting. Drop 1/4 HP sump pump into 5 gallon or larger pale . Have someone turn on pump start motor. Without T stats in. You can also use slightly heavier springs in checkballs to make sure antifreeze pumps into engine first.

I definitely prefer draining blocks completely after they are warmed up some. Here is the fitting I use.

SB I posted this a couple of times up here --- the video link.. I have alot experience with these types of anti freeze about half of them do not have enough corrosion inhibitors in them to begin with. Also 10 % water mix will expand this if it does hard freeze in the winter. Plus any water mix delutes the corrosion inhibitors - this brings down the corrosion protection even further especially if it was sub par to begin with.

Alot of experience seeing the V 6 Merc and Volvo apps inwhich will hold water in the intake manifold, crack when one just uses the pink stuff without draining all water completely out first and foremost. See this all the time when we reach about 9 degrees or below for about a week straight. Common cause people think that pink anti freeze will not freeze nor expand so many do not drain the water out first, ( they just run their engines on the anti freeze)

. Also Volvo Penta has a Service bulletin years ago that this form of anti freeze can swell the impeller when stored for periods of time... if 10 percent water or more is mixed, it will expand. So 3 gallons of pink stuff is 384 oz and 38 oz of water is all it takes to expand this mix.

Joe, just store it in Florida and use it this winter. LOL

I like the way you think Terry. It came from Havasu, so I am sure no one has ever winterized it before and I just can't take up the space in my shop all winter.