I have a couple new sets I powder coated merc blue of the Hardin style but was wondering about the 2 piece. Are they not really what there suppose to be? Pretty sure I’ll be able to remove mine without sliding the stellings back??? Engines not in the boat yet.

They just leak like a sieve. It's like a constant oil change. Put oil in the fill hole on top, run boat for a few hours, the valve covers automatically drain oil to the bilge, top off with another 1/2 qt, drain bilge from the oil plug on the back of the transom.
Hardin might have corrected them. I know S30 has posted how he ground areas away to help.
Sorry ICPPLPEEING for the derailment.

I heard from Gelner that they are better now.. but who knows .
I have spring PEEers so don`t know if that would work .

I always thought they were a great concept however I’d rather lose a couple 1/4 nuts from time to time in the bilge rather than oil everywhere. That would drive me nuts!

As a stock replacement they leak. You can grind down the inner rail on the base at the rear corner which helps. With that cover you usually have the spring spray bars in them which only adds to the oil laying on top of head. I usually had oil return lines plumbed into the head going down to pan which helps keep oil a little cooler and definitely reduces the oil available to leak. Main benefit from my standpoint is time and accessibility. Oil absorb pad in bottom of hull usually takes care of oil problem. Comes down to a cost versus benefit question for the individual.

[QUOTE=bob;4813405]The profiler is hands down the best OTB tunnel ram HP wise.

heres a pic of how to do it.
head down to post 29 and beyond
Boatfreaks

lol okay boatfreaks.

^^^^ shouldn't be hard to get around - Darr did it for years -lol

Original 2 piece base

After grinding to prevent leaking @ joint as per boat freaks thread