You may have just left a switch for something (bilge, blower, etc..) in the on position

Ryan,

Maaaaan.... I so wish it were that easy. But, no. I had already checked that. I even climbed back up there and double checked it again.

I guess my question is... Do the gauges show SOME continuity? Even if only minimal...?

There are two "amplifiers" with remote "on" wiring. Anything there?

Thanks. Brad.

I bet it is that easy. If your radio has a clock powered by the battery that could be enough to show continuity

Also, remember your body is a conductor so be aware of what your fingers are touching when testing for continuity, and never hurts to double check with a second multimeter.

Ryan,

Funny enough, I have been using two different multimeters. I would love to say one for the helm and one for the engine well, but I have a habit of carrying them from one to the other, and never let it be said I take the same one back.

I sure hope you’re right. And I’m inclined to believe it, as I have been wracking my brain and scouring every possible potential source of the issue I can find. So far, I’ve found exactly ZERO legitimate cause otherwise.

Yes. There is a clock in the radio. Not that we’ve ever set it, but it’s there. Plus all the other memories it’s got. I guess I could start disconnecting those things and see if it goes away.

But, just to be clear…. Can gauges be guilty of inducing continuity?

Thanks. Brad.

I'm not exactly sure, but I would guess not. Most of your gauges should be on switched 12 volts, and not constant, so theoretically without the key they are not connected to the main battery wire.

quiet for a while
how goes the engine Brad?
hope all is well

Liberator221,

All is good here. Cold as farq, but hangin’ on….

When you get down to the little bits, progress slows a bit….




Got the fuel rail on and the harnesses connected. I made a set of riser sleeves for the ignition coils, to get them away from the valve cover heat and give us room to tuck the harnesses underneath. I reloomed the injector harness with new cable management webbing, using rescue tape to secure the ends/openings. Gonna do the same for the ignition harness, as the old shrouding was heat cycle baked and crumbling.


Made a grim discovery. I poked the hole in it with the screwdriver, but these heat exchanger seals are toast; literally falling apart in my hands. I ordered all new rubber components and the heat exchanger will be good to go and final installed.

Pretty much everything else is hung, as far as the peripherals, except the ProCharger. I need to pick up a new serpentine belt, as I have no idea how old the one that came off is (I haven’t changed it since buying the boat).


A glimpse at the exhaust riser plumbing. It got a bit more complicated than I had planned after putting the concept to reality. I can make it all work, and it will be free flowing, but it’s definitely gonna be a conversation piece. Now I just gotta hope it’ll actually fit under the sundeck (I’m 95% sure )

The builder is going to build a run stand. Nearly 50yrs of building engines on a hobby basis, and he’s always just dropped the engine into place and fired it up. But he’s decided a run stand would be cool, so my engine is gonna be the guinea pig for it. I picked up some 2” box tubing and he’s gonna get to cutting and welding. He’s got all the components for a proper run stand (starter, fuel pump and regulator, etc). It won’t be long. He’s saying a pre-run engine in the boat before the end of the month.

Good times….

Thanks. Brad.

Looking good, Brad.

Padraig

Are you going to run it on the dyno to get numbers and a base tune?