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'82 38 KAAMA Scarab

Old 11-23-2017, 03:18 AM
  #31  
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On mine, I want to have the cabin functional, and appearing stock. So I won't be leaving mine stripped. Now, as far as the seat backs and bench bottoms, mine were pretty heavy. I haven't put them on the scale yet to see exactly what each weighed, but I'm willing to be that just the seat bottom on one side was all of 40-50 lbs. The seat back was probably close to that weight. The next time I go to the boat, I'll take a scale and weight them. I think a lot of the weight of the seat bottom, is all of the epoxy that was slathered on it, because I agree, 1/2 ply isn't that heavy on it's own. The v-birth is close to 8' long, that's a lot of wood up there, and the farther up the nose the weight is, the more its going to hurt.

I know Coosa claims their panels are 30% less in weight than plywood, so that wouldn't be a lot of weight savings. I am curious if I made my own panels out of Divinycell wrapped in kevlar if they would be even lighter. I've got a lot of Kevlar fabric, so I'm doing all of my repairs with that, and vinyl ester. I know it's not as great to work with as glass, but I won't have to use as much of it for the same strength. In the end will it make a lick of difference? Most likely not, but I like to experiment with things to see what happens.

To go back to that conversation with Dan, he said I could save 60 lbs by replacing my bulkheads with composite. At the time I wasn't seriously considering it, but I am now curious if he was talking about all of the bulkheads or just the forward ones. If it was just the forward bulkheads, I do think there is some worth while weight savings to be had in the cabin by switching to composites. The other option would be to use thinner plywood, and reinforce it.

As far as the saddle tanks go, yes my boat has them. They are each 68 gallons with a 138 gallon belly tank. I've thought about removing them, but like you, I like the idea if I take a trip, to be able to carry extra fuel. Plus I keep my boat on a lift, and not having to pull it as often to refuel is a big plus.

I agree with you completely, some of the workmanship is terrible, the bulkheads are the biggest example. LOL, both of ours has the same issue, delaminated tabbing. Looking at my tabbing on the bulkheads, it doesn't look like they were wet out very well. It's a great example how a few minutes saved causes issues later. Ha, thankfully I haven't found any laid-up over paint yet.

What are your thoughts of of running the bulkhead in front of the engines, where the trim pumps mount, all the way to the hull sides, and glassing it all in. There's no support on this area from the companionway bulkhead, to the transom. I would think this would greatly stiffen the boat, and help with the stress cracking that goes on with these boats. It certainly wouldn't be a big deal to improve that area if it would help.
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Old 11-23-2017, 03:25 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by outonsafari View Post
does / can the floor come off the rest of the cockpit or just over the gas tank ?
sounds like your going all the way with the resto upgrade.
gonna jack it up and sqaure it up for the glass work and cabin rebuild ?

i enjoyed every part of mine including the grinding, only 2 things sucked
cleaning up after grinding, and the work was done outside so weather slowed it all down
keep me in mind about the side by side bolster,

thanks
take all the pics you can
The cockpit floor will come out, but I need to cut the tabbing on the sides, and then "strategically" cut the floor in the middle to get it out. I'm going to do this just so I can inspect everything, and I have a bulkhead that needs to be repaired. I will be truing up the hull, I need to move the water pick ups for the engines from the hull bottom to the transom. So when I do that, I'll flatten the hull bottom.

As soon as I know I'm not using the side by side, I'll let you know!
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Old 11-23-2017, 11:28 AM
  #33  
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Iím digging your thoughts on lightening up the cabin. Maybe Iíll look into Coosa for the v berth and main benches too. Youíre right about the weight up there in the v berth being very critical, much more so than say the back of the cabin or cockpit.

Ive considered replacing the engine bulkhead with a piece going all the way up, glassed to the hull sides. It couldnít hurt anything..
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Old 11-24-2017, 08:36 AM
  #34  
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if i was rebuilding / stick building a cabin like yours i would look at theses as an option.

laminated balsa core panels @ jamestown

i went thru 6 sheets of 1/2 inch nida core
2 in the bolster 2 in the hatch and 2 for scraps,experiments and waste
4 sheets of divinycel
2 coring the deck 1 filling and modding the dash, and bracing the engine hatch, 1 for scraps experiments, and waste

if i could redo my job i would have bought and used the baltec panels, but when i first found them on the web it wasn't at jamestown,
where i could get individual sheets, and the distributor i got a hold of told me there was a minimum order of 8 so i passed.
the 2500 bucks or more was a bargain in retrospect considering the time, money and issues with making my own panels or building
something that once tabbed together needed covering with glass, causing weight savings to diminish.

my boats bulkheads are are baltek pre finished sheets cut to fit and tabbed in.
i have some pieces that i was messing with and their light strong and cut/ shape real nice.
Attached Thumbnails '82 38 KAAMA Scarab-sany0324.jpg  

Last edited by outonsafari; 11-24-2017 at 08:47 AM.
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Old 11-24-2017, 08:41 AM
  #35  
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I finally found a local dealer that sells divinycell and Space Age Composite panels, and it looks like also ATC core bond. I'm going to give them a call on Monday. The biggest issue I had with this stuff was the shipping cost. Now that I can get it next door, there will be no shipping.

Last edited by endeavour32; 11-24-2017 at 09:36 AM.
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:42 AM
  #36  
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I was looking into coosa panels. They are not cheap. I haven't checked into divinycell composites. I am contemplating using it on the horizontal surfaces. I'm kinda skittish about using it on the cockpit floor. Have you been able to spend much time on the boat? Do you have anybody helping you?
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Old 12-13-2017, 06:52 PM
  #37  
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No it's not cheap. I'm really up in the air on spending all that money on a maybe, and all the extra work.

I've spent the past few weekends getting things done. Right now I'm removing the transom, I knew it had some bad spots, the the entire thing is WET. So far I've found about 12" of dry wood, and I have it half out. Honestly It's pretty easy. Most of it just falls out with a simple pry from a screwdriver. The biggest pain is sanding the last layer of wood off to get to clean glass. I've got the week between Christmas and New Years off, so I'll get a lot done that week. Do I have anyone assisting- nope, this is a solo project. When it comes time to laminating the transom, I'll get my dad to come down and help. Ha, getting the saddle tanks out alone, with around 15 gallons of fuel in them was not fun, but they are out.
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Old 12-13-2017, 07:02 PM
  #38  
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Here are some pictures on where I am at, on the transom.
Attached Thumbnails '82 38 KAAMA Scarab-img_1812.jpg   '82 38 KAAMA Scarab-img_0824.jpg   '82 38 KAAMA Scarab-img_0825.jpg  

'82 38 KAAMA Scarab-img_0828.jpg   '82 38 KAAMA Scarab-img_0830.jpg   '82 38 KAAMA Scarab-img_0838.jpg  

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Old 12-13-2017, 07:25 PM
  #39  
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sander ?
4 inch grinder with 36 grit flapper pads makes fast work of that leftover ply, scary fast !

another weight and cost saver for the cabin would be to re use all the teak, mirror plex, kaama stuff, metal trim etc and so on
that is salvageable or cool, and rebuild it like you say "in stock appearance"
but condense it down to a 1/2 cabin, head and galley, two couches that convert to one bed, bare bones the rest of the way up.

first picture, post 38
how the stringers come up for the front mounts.
since the #5 needs rear offshore plates, are you going to need to raise the outer stringers up at or near
the transom for the rear plates ?
how about the center stringer, anything special because of the notch ?
if any mods are needed will they interfere with the saddle tanks ?

Last edited by outonsafari; 12-13-2017 at 09:08 PM. Reason: stringer mods
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:07 PM
  #40  
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I use the term sander lightly. Its a heavy duty Bosch with a 5" 36 grit disk, set to spin. It's basically a selectable grinder/sander.

As to the stringers, the outer ones will be replaced as they are wet in places. When I do this, I will raise them for the rear mounts. As for the cabin, it's pretty bare bones as it is. The head is behind a curtain, honestly stripping it bare wouldn't save much as there isn't a ton there now, plus I want it usable. I do plan on overnighting on the boat when done.
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