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I was thinking oh damn I haven`t seen another set of those flame arrestors I had, then I realized oh wait those are mine lol

Yep !!!! Covers and all !!!! 😊

Dan - what silicone do you like the best for this app? (I also owe you for letting me borrow those props years ago....!)

Gil had to originally put silicone on my transom even after fairing and sanding the transom "flat" as could be achieved. Not much, just a bead on the leading edge of the o-ring (or seal) I ordered some new o-ring material to make my own seal & to re-install my box after some repair / maintenance. The stuff on there is pliable but damn it's hard to scrape off. Had to pry the box off.

Need silicone type/brand suggestion to get it re-installed this weekend.

I am thinking the "3m Marine Grade Silicone Sealant" (NOT 4200 or 5200!)

Sorry to mini hi-jack Eric, but I thought the responses were interesting.

I went with a very small amount of 4200 on the new seal seamed roll work great

I use the Right Stuff by Permatex

you might want to think about putting steam dumps where those allen plugs are in the intake.

Ok so with the new foam seals on the transom assembles everything cleaned and checked 500 times I’m ready to have a evening of install on the back of the boat. Transom assembly’s tabs fitting ect. Is there a tq spec on the inner transom assembly nuts ? My biggest fear is a leak on the transom assembly I don’t know why lol it’s all new but that would be a *****. I got all new ss nuts and mounting stuff. Excited for final assembly now just have to get my helper and some 4200!

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/d...lt-torque.html


20-25 ft/lb for a bravo t plate

What exactly are steam dumps?

I think I’m going to put the transom seal to transom dry from what I understand that’s the best chance of it sealing

There is no cross over at the rear of the intake manifold, so the water deadends in the rear of the cylinder head and since there is no circulation they have a tendency to run hotter in those area's, so if you were to pull those plugs and attach a -4 fitting with a dump hose the water has a place to go and you have a more even temps across the the cylinder head.

Absolutely we just put those plugs in to test run them we will be doing that for sure when we put them in. Whenever that may be. Have every part here to put it together but no time. Those brand new yahama 255x sure do look nice lol! I have spent so much time on the lake the last 2 seasons with the kids like every weekend I kinda regret going so far into this project never would of thought I’d get so much enjoyment out of a turn key bow rider. Lol.

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Nothing beats these days

No project updates - LOL were all curious and wondering ...

Sorry updates have been slow. I spent the hike summer at the lake with the fam and taking a break from projects. I did have the boat at the interior shop for several weeks getting the new panels made for sides and above the dashes so those are all done and installed. Also had some other parts made by some good friends in the baiting community. I have a stock pile of parts for the winter and see no reason why she shouldn’t be in the water in spring. Finishing up a inframe rebuild on my kodiak moter and winter maintenance on that truck then in to the boat

Looking forward to seeing it done. Soooooofa king nice so far!!!

Yes me to !!! It’s been a long process started going down the rabbit hole of thinking about 6s have to stay on track lol

6’s?! May as well. Lol

Lol your not helping lol

Boat ran really well with Konrads and can’t go back know I think with 750hp and lighter boat they will hold up really well. Can’t wait to get it in the water

I wish I would have had the balls to do this... but I would have to make new tail pieces, raise the hatch and we already had the transom cut for the 3s..... Oh well I just want mine back to making noise.

If I thought there was anything to gain by going to 6s I would. But straight bottom guns do not love 6s they do porpoise and only having 750-800 hp I think the Konrads will hold up fine absolutely have to drive it correct but that’s with any drive. Also my boat is pretty light weight so that helps !

I always wonder why that is. Well, I think any straight bottom gun porpoises, but they were designed with a CG to be used with the motors pushed forward for transmissions (TRS Drives). I suppose its the fact the drives and gimbals weigh so much hanging way off the back.

I owned two 93's one Kevlar TRS and a glass bravo boat and neither one porpoised

Every straight bottom cigarette I’ve ever been in (cafe gun and tiger, bravo 3a 6’s, didn’t matter) porpoised at some point. Drag tab, move drives around, they all needed something to get the sweet spot. Get in flat water, they porpoise. But they’re not meant to run flat water now are they!

Tank do you think spinning the props in would help with the porpoising?

Doubtful. :D

My boat with the konrads and 575s ran really well is hoped around a bit 60-55 but Laid down and ran really well beyond that. Who knows know that the cabin is different and built different hoping for them best

I had a 93 TRS Top Gun that porpoised ever so slightly in flat water. Easily fixed with alittle tab. Really nice riding/balanced boat IMO...Then I had Old School with #6's. Craig told me to pretty much leave the drives level at all times because the boat didnt like trim.... boy was he right! When you are used to running a TRS where you can really trim alot to gain speed, the #6 boat was like a dolphin in flat water with just a touch of the trim button. I learned very quickly to leave those drives level in flat water....but, bring the boats in the ocean, and the #6 boat stayed level and rode flatter than the others. Solid wave crusher.

I was used to trimming my 4`s and 5`s to the moon and the boat kept picking up speed.
With IV`s anything past level is no bueno.
Mine likes to run a couple knotches past tucked for the most part. Gotta be going over 70mph to be able to be level and not hop.
Anything over level shoots a rooster for a mile and loses speed at WOT .

This. This is really not helping me pass up the deal on sixes I found....

Do it!! :drink:

Pair of VI`s 2" above bottom and a set of 18 diameter 5 blade props 18R it`s going to feel like a new boat.
I get on plane at 3000rpm and no blow out .. pops on plane like a ski boat.

I mean they`re terrible , you should not do it at all.:D

I mean, you make a solid point. There’s really no reason “not “ to do it.

I need to repower the other boat with merc racing outboard 400s. I guess that’s about the same price, so whatever I end up with first is happening.

It may be just me reading what you wrote in the wrong context - are you talking about what you had before or referring to the 6's you just put on

IV is 4, VI is 6

We figured you were just testing us. Lol

Help needed!
working on fitting new trailer under the boat. For our style of boating we want to do we decided to swap trailers. I tow with a single cab medium duty so storage is kinda short. We’re at the point in our life we’re the kids are getting older and doing a lot in there own. So me and the wife want to head out and do some runs in different places. We would like to attend some fpc events / some Bahamas stuff and other places that being said for lots of miles towing I decide to opt into a Myco gooseneck. With a custom built platform over the neck with boxes underneath for storage. On the platform I can run all the spare tires and such. Worked out a deal and got a 2012 Myco that had a 42 tiger on it.got it home and doing a full restoration and build on it. Leads me to my questions ? Trying to figure out we’re axels should be. We are shorting the trailer a bit and putting all new axels and hard ware on we have everyhing cut off and are trying to figure it out with out moving the boat on it. It was set up for step haul and I didn’t like the supports we cut everything off and are having it sandblasted. Anyone have a 38 gun sitting on Myco gooseneck for measurements?

seems to be notched boats, at least in stock form my 87 never did with 3’s but didn’t have a notch