Dyno results
03-30-2014 | 12:16 PM
#51
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From: Chestertown, MD
Unlike that other pic on the first page. How's the old saying go? If it has tits or wheels it's bound to give your problems. Haha I had to add some comedy to it. Looks like a solid build! Good job going with the quick fuels! They are the best I've seen out of the box! And this thread is full of great info!
Last edited by KRAUSMOTORSPORTS; 03-30-2014 at 12:36 PM.
04-02-2014 | 04:25 PM
#52
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Unlike that other pic on the first page. How's the old saying go? If it has tits or wheels it's bound to give your problems. Haha I had to add some comedy to it. Looks like a solid build! Good job going with the quick fuels! They are the best I've seen out of the box! And this thread is full of great info!
04-03-2014 | 10:19 AM
#53
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04-03-2014 | 11:51 AM
#54
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From: bel air, md
Hey Budman, it sounds like that motor is gonna fight you to the end. You'll get it just stick with it. Not to start a what's the best product to use... But I've always used liquid Teflon and not just on one or two motors but I've never had an issue with it. Good luck keep your head up.
04-03-2014 | 02:06 PM
#55
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From: On A Dirt Floor
Budman, how well did you clean the shipping oil off the threads ? Takes along time to do with all the studs / bolts but it's a must do. Most sealers turn into a dripping goo when mixed with that oil.
04-03-2014 | 04:46 PM
#56
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Plan is to try pulling the leaking studs and apply more hylomar to them to see if that fixes it. Of course, I still have to test the other bank. If it's leaking like a sieve too I might just give up and pull the heads and studs, clean everything again, and try something else. It just seems like everyone has a preferred thread sealer that they claim works every time. Hard to figure out which one is fool proof.
Wondering if I ran it on the startup stand with some of the GM sealer circulating in it if it would take care of this. Trouble is, if it doesn't fix it, then I have that much more stuff to pull off the engine. Bob seems to think I am overthinking it - he thinks it will seal itself up when it gets hot. He may be right, but if not, I'm going to be pretty far into it.
I seem to have a knack for rooting out all of the exotic clusterfuqs with this motor. Can't wait to see what's next.
ICD, sorry to hijack your thread! Don't want any of my bad mojo rubbing off on your motors!
04-03-2014 | 06:49 PM
#57
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From: Chicago
I think you did, while priming the 2nd motor I had like 3 oil leaks and a bad check valve.
Guess I should tighten fittings before I get distracted
I like the Hylomar but for gaskets. If it leaks try something different for threads.
Any good HVAC supply house should carry it..
Guess I should tighten fittings before I get distracted
I like the Hylomar but for gaskets. If it leaks try something different for threads.
Any good HVAC supply house should carry it..
Leak Lock high strength pipe joint sealant
Leak Lock is a state-of-the-art high strength, pipe joint sealant consisting of chemically resistant film formers, plasticers, reinforcing fillers and solvents .
A resin based brushable paste which remains permanently flexible, adheres to internal surfaces and fills voids
Ideal for metal and plastic materials subject to extreme vibrations
Effective in temperatures from -200ƒF (-93ƒC) to 400ƒF (204ƒC), full vacuums and pressures to 10,000 PSI
Leak Lock can be used on all metal or plastic materials, including but not limited to, aluminum, aluminum alloys, cast irons, copper, copper alloys, (brass, bronze, etc...), magnesium and magnesium alloys, carbon steels, stainless steels, galvanized surfaces, PVC, CPVC, ABS, fiberglass, black polypropylene, and kynar. Leak Lock should be applied to threaded joints, flanged joints, gasket surfaces and all mating surfaces where a fluid-tight seal is required.
Leak Lock seals a broad range of chemicals including all refrigerants such as R-12, R-22, R-502, R-134A, etc., all CFC, HFC and HCFC refrigerants, petroleum products, natural and manufactured gases, steam, water, air, etc. No other sealant offers the application range of Leak Lock. Use alcohol as a cleansing solvent prior to setting.
Available in 1 1/3 oz. tube; 4 oz. & 16 oz. brush top plastic jars; 1 gal. can
Product Specifications
What is Leak Lock?
Leak Lock is a state-of-the-art high strength, pipe joint sealant consisting of chemically resistant film formers, plasticers, reinforcing fillers and solvents .
How It Works
When Leak Lock is applied to pipe joints, it adheres to the mating surfaces. After joints are assembled, Leak Lock sets to form a chemically resistant flexible fluid-tight seal.
How to Use It
Leak Lock should be applied to clean joint surfaces, either with the applicator brush or any convenient spatula. Apply Leak Lock to both mating surfaces. Tack should be allowed to develop before joints are assembled.
Where to Use It
Leak Lock can be used on all metal or plastic materials, including but not limited to, aluminum, aluminum alloys, cast irons, copper, copper alloys, (brass, bronze, etc ...), magnesium and magnesium alloys, carbon steels, stainless steels, galvanized surfaces, PVC, CPVC, ABS, fiberglass, black polypropylene, and kynar. Leak Lock should be applied to threaded joints, flanged joints, gasket surfaces and all mating surfaces where a fluid-tight seal is required. Special Applications - Leak Lock is ideal for joining dissimilar metals and materials. Prevents loosening of nuts, bolts, plugs and fittings. Call Highside for specific applications and compatibility.
Leak Lock is a state-of-the-art high strength, pipe joint sealant consisting of chemically resistant film formers, plasticers, reinforcing fillers and solvents .
A resin based brushable paste which remains permanently flexible, adheres to internal surfaces and fills voids
Ideal for metal and plastic materials subject to extreme vibrations
Effective in temperatures from -200ƒF (-93ƒC) to 400ƒF (204ƒC), full vacuums and pressures to 10,000 PSI
Leak Lock can be used on all metal or plastic materials, including but not limited to, aluminum, aluminum alloys, cast irons, copper, copper alloys, (brass, bronze, etc...), magnesium and magnesium alloys, carbon steels, stainless steels, galvanized surfaces, PVC, CPVC, ABS, fiberglass, black polypropylene, and kynar. Leak Lock should be applied to threaded joints, flanged joints, gasket surfaces and all mating surfaces where a fluid-tight seal is required.
Leak Lock seals a broad range of chemicals including all refrigerants such as R-12, R-22, R-502, R-134A, etc., all CFC, HFC and HCFC refrigerants, petroleum products, natural and manufactured gases, steam, water, air, etc. No other sealant offers the application range of Leak Lock. Use alcohol as a cleansing solvent prior to setting.
Available in 1 1/3 oz. tube; 4 oz. & 16 oz. brush top plastic jars; 1 gal. can
Product Specifications
What is Leak Lock?
Leak Lock is a state-of-the-art high strength, pipe joint sealant consisting of chemically resistant film formers, plasticers, reinforcing fillers and solvents .
How It Works
When Leak Lock is applied to pipe joints, it adheres to the mating surfaces. After joints are assembled, Leak Lock sets to form a chemically resistant flexible fluid-tight seal.
How to Use It
Leak Lock should be applied to clean joint surfaces, either with the applicator brush or any convenient spatula. Apply Leak Lock to both mating surfaces. Tack should be allowed to develop before joints are assembled.
Where to Use It
Leak Lock can be used on all metal or plastic materials, including but not limited to, aluminum, aluminum alloys, cast irons, copper, copper alloys, (brass, bronze, etc ...), magnesium and magnesium alloys, carbon steels, stainless steels, galvanized surfaces, PVC, CPVC, ABS, fiberglass, black polypropylene, and kynar. Leak Lock should be applied to threaded joints, flanged joints, gasket surfaces and all mating surfaces where a fluid-tight seal is required. Special Applications - Leak Lock is ideal for joining dissimilar metals and materials. Prevents loosening of nuts, bolts, plugs and fittings. Call Highside for specific applications and compatibility.
04-03-2014 | 06:58 PM
#58
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,090
Likes: 3,681
From: On A Dirt Floor
Budman, what do you really have for a block ? You said you have a 540, then said a passenger block ? Excuse me for forgettting what you have put togther for a motor.
The 502 (from GM) and some of the other race and of course aftermarket has some blind holes.
Studs don't tighten into the threads like bolts, so that's why bolts seal up easier. The bolts and block threads are basically squishing/jamming/pulling (whatever the term is) together.
Does no one use the trusted Permatex #2 around here anymore. LOL.
Oh and I believe Loctite makes a stud sealing compound if you are real worried.
The 502 (from GM) and some of the other race and of course aftermarket has some blind holes.
Studs don't tighten into the threads like bolts, so that's why bolts seal up easier. The bolts and block threads are basically squishing/jamming/pulling (whatever the term is) together.
Does no one use the trusted Permatex #2 around here anymore. LOL.
Oh and I believe Loctite makes a stud sealing compound if you are real worried.
Last edited by SB; 04-03-2014 at 07:03 PM.
