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Old 03-21-2014 | 10:02 PM
  #31  
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dan, i think you will be pleasantly suprised at the way your boat will run this year,forget about alum heads,new carbs and chillers,893 hp is nothing to sneeze at but rather big for your setup and il bet it will be trouble free so enjoy my friend.
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Old 03-21-2014 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
dan, i think you will be pleasantly suprised at the way your boat will run this year,forget about alum heads,new carbs and chillers,893 hp is nothing to sneeze at but rather big for your setup and il bet it will be trouble free so enjoy my friend.
I agree. I think today we quite wrapped up in builds we see on the web. But in my opinion, for a simple low compression, iron headed, 540 inch engine, with a roots blower, nearly 900HP is a real good number. Even if he backed the boost down a bit, and called them 850's, thats still a stout package that will fit the bill in an old school 38 Cig, with #4 drives.

I will say I noticed one thing so far. Last year, those engines never started real well. Whether they were cold, or warmed up, they always ''chugged'' to life. It be like crank crank crank crank crank blub blub blub blub blub blub until they smoothed out and stayed at 900rpm. Heck, even the initial fire on the dyno, with the timing retarded a bit, they sprung to life! once the timing was set, they fired up with some authority every time, with a simple flip of the ignition, like most blown engines should. I think that was simply having the right spark plugs in there this time. Either way, those are still some of the sweetest idling carb'd deals I've been around yet. Mike, as noted yesterday, you almost cant get them to surge, if you try. The AFR at idle, was in surge territory, yesterday when we played with them. I know why they are like that, but I am not sharing that info!! But I will give you guys a hint. its not the throttle blade setting, its not the mixture screw setting, its not the air bleeds, its not the idle feed restrictor size. I've been through those carbs. Theres something in them, just a tad different, than most other carbs.
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Old 03-21-2014 | 11:00 PM
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I don't have the Hp to hang w u guys. Very impressive stuff that I would like to hear run some day.. Very Nice. TKACH needs a new Profile pic tho
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Old 03-21-2014 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
I agree. I think today we quite wrapped up in builds we see on the web. But in my opinion, for a simple low compression, iron headed, 540 inch engine, with a roots blower, nearly 900HP is a real good number. Even if he backed the boost down a bit, and called them 850's, thats still a stout package that will fit the bill in an old school 38 Cig, with #4 drives.

I will say I noticed one thing so far. Last year, those engines never started real well. Whether they were cold, or warmed up, they always ''chugged'' to life. It be like crank crank crank crank crank blub blub blub blub blub blub until they smoothed out and stayed at 900rpm. Heck, even the initial fire on the dyno, with the timing retarded a bit, they sprung to life! once the timing was set, they fired up with some authority every time, with a simple flip of the ignition, like most blown engines should. I think that was simply having the right spark plugs in there this time. Either way, those are still some of the sweetest idling carb'd deals I've been around yet. Mike, as noted yesterday, you almost cant get them to surge, if you try. The AFR at idle, was in surge territory, yesterday when we played with them. I know why they are like that, but I am not sharing that info!! But I will give you guys a hint. its not the throttle blade setting, its not the mixture screw setting, its not the air bleeds, its not the idle feed restrictor size. I've been through those carbs. Theres something in them, just a tad different, than most other carbs.
do any of the throttle plates have a hole drilled in them?
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Old 03-21-2014 | 11:34 PM
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]520731[/ATTACH]
Originally Posted by mike tkach
do any of the throttle plates have a hole drilled in them?
No sir.

Its actually the location, of the idle feed restricter. Most carbs have them in the upper location in the metering block. Dans, are in the lower position. One is above the fuel level in the bowls, the other, is below. It has pretty much been proven, the lower hole, works much better with low vacuum signal, and will provide a more stable, fuel supply at idle. Unstable fuel supply=Surge. I noticed how well dans engines idled around the docks. Much cleaner than most blown deals i've been around. I just had to find out WHY they idled better than most. They'd just put around no problem, no surging, no stalling, just good smooth steady idle. Like it didnt even have roots blowers. It wasnt just the tuning on them. There was something different in them, I wanted to know what it was. So i offered to rebuild them for him :-)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]520731[/ATTACH]
Attached Thumbnails Dyno results-meteringblock.jpg  

Last edited by MILD THUNDER; 03-21-2014 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 03-21-2014 | 11:50 PM
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il be dammed,you learn something every day.
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Old 03-21-2014 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
il be dammed,you learn something every day.
It was a little trick i learned from the guys who run the jet/Vdrive deals, they run alot of roots stuff, and some pretty radical cams. My stock holley 850 marine carbs, Joey's nickersons, and most others i have been in lately, have had the restrictor in the upper position. I can make my engines surge like crazy. Almost have to have a little surge, or they wanna stall sometimes. Not dans though! put put put put put all day.

Notice how today on your whipple deal, how when you held the bypass open, the AFR's started going nutty, rich/lean, rich/lean. Gotta love that bypass though!

Last edited by MILD THUNDER; 03-21-2014 at 11:55 PM.
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Old 03-22-2014 | 12:20 AM
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Did you guys use leak lock on the head studs? Seems quite a few guys run into leaky studs using the specialty thread sealers out there, and if I recall Mike likes and has used leak lock with great success?
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Old 03-22-2014 | 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Borgie
Did you guys use leak lock on the head studs? Seems quite a few guys run into leaky studs using the specialty thread sealers out there, and if I recall Mike likes and has used leak lock with great success?
Yes. Its great stuff. Icdedppl been using it for years in HVAC too.
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Old 03-22-2014 | 05:47 AM
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Getting jealous over here! Nice work fellas, lets go break some ice.
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