Ryan,

We may end up going with Scorpion, who has a Gen7 option. Or we may end up entertaining the idea of cutting the Polylocks and/or conversion studs down just a bit. We’ll work it out. One way or another. I’m going to avoid cover spacers if I can.

I’m told the 211 is quite the difference. I have no empirical experience, though.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

I’ve been quiet here, but work on the rebuild has been steady and forward….


The short block is together.

After getting the runaround between Cometic and Summit, trying to save a few bucks on a set of non-catalogue head gaskets that Summit doesn’t have in their system (.080” MLS with 4.310 bores), I gave up and ordered them straight from Cometic. They are supposed to ship by Friday.

I spent the last two days replacing all the maintenance items in the transom assembly; both bellows, the updated water passage and the oil line. Speaking of the oil line….



For those that don’t recognize this little widget, it is the transom assembly bulkhead oil fitting. Word is that little hose barb gets brittle over time and has a habit of breaking off. Michigan Motors makes one out of brass, with a threaded-in barb, but it’s kinda spendy, so I improved on it and made my own out of 316ss and a welded barb. PM me if this little gem appeals to you. I saved the programs in the machines.


Oil filter head is finally installed and temp sender is wired in.

Anybody got an extra strap for the drive oil reservoir or have suggestions for securing it to the bracket such that it can be removed for filling?


Fuel pump, filter and pressure regulator are permanently mounted and plumbed in, except for hoses to and from the rail. Fuel cooler will be somewhere between the rail and the regulator.



Ground bus bar is in and awaiting a box of screws to start making connections. Solid copper, nickel plated. I will connect both batteries to this and then run a ground to the block, maybe two.

I’ve also got the new bilge pump and float switch wired in, but I’m waiting til everything is done and we’re ready to drop the engine in before I mount it to the floor. I can very easily see myself kicking it or stepping on it and breaking the housing, which would really pish me off.


I’m sure there’s more, just gotta get to work to pay for all this crap. Now, it’s just a matter of cleaning up my mess in the engine well and tidying it up, ready for engine install day.

Thanks. Brad.

Brad, why didn't you hang the oil filter to minimize mess when changing?

Liberator,

The short answer is because the filter was mounted as such originally.




Changing the filter isn't really that big a deal. I just poke a hole or three in the top of the filter and let it drain as the oil pan is draining, then wrap a towel around the base as I crack the filter loose. I'd always managed to avoid making a mess previously, even with the filter mounted on top of the engine, so I just kept with the same philosophy. Whatever mess we get will end up landing on fiberglass, on the outside of the engine stringer. I'll just have a towel there to catch any incidental spillage.

Thanks. Brad.

I have broken so many of those stupid plastic hose barbs and it always ruins my day, they are a pain to replace! I should have a gear lube reservoir strap, I can check when I get home

Ryan,

I can't imagine ever breaking this one. Or having it rot away due to salt.

For the record, changing it while the engine and drive are out isn't that big a deal. Just sayin'....

Thanks. Brad.

Ryan,

All good. Thanks for the offer, but I ordered a reservoir strap from Amazon for probably a bit more than the shipping we'd pay getting yours to me.

Thanks. Brad.

only change I would look at on the transom oil tube is if you look at the original it is reduced every where except where the o-rings go. wondering if they do that so if there is any corrosion in the bore over time it will let it come out easier. dont know that for a fact as most engineers dont think that far ahead but I would maybe reduce it some in those areas just in case.

CompedEdge,

It’s a molded plastic piece, which is an additive process. Those voids are all about material savings. When you’re removing material, it’s a completely different philosophy; you don’t remove any material you don’t need gone. I would think giving crud and corrosion a space to gather would be worse than not. If it’s gonna collect in there, I’d rather it be a thin film of it rather than what essentially amounts to a retaining key. Personally, I thought it odd that Michigan Motors actually put that machining time into their offering.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCC-SCP1016

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCC-SCP4016

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCC-SCP3016

What’s the real, practical difference? Other than that it appears the marine option has a smaller maximum spring diameter, which seems odd to my lizard brain…..

Thanks. Brad.