Re: Marine Lubrication
 

So what's everybody running in the crankcase this season anyways?

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Well, last week it was a mix of mercruiser oil and lakewater :(

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Amsoil 20w-50 Racing for the first time. Only been out one time and my shifter let go but I should have that fixed in the next 1-2 weeks then I'll get to see better, how she runs. First trip out she ran awesome. O/P was good and solid so, so far all's well!

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

What oil where you running previously?

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Valvoline 50W Racing oil and syrup. :D Already I see cold starts much better. That Valvoline is some thick stuff. It took several minutes to get it warmed up enough to idle in gear to launch and usually more than one start. Just setting it up over winter with a blend of Valvoline 40w Racing and Amsoil 15w-40 (what I had left and just wanted to coat everything good, then change it again in spring before running it) it started right up with 2 pumps and one crank then idled with no problem.

Besides, the Amsoil 20w-50 Racing smells and looks like cherry syrup! :D

I'm also using the new Amsoil filter. Used to us the SD's.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

I have seen at least 10 racing teams last summer have a drum or cases of Amsoil Racing 20W-50 in their trailers...I would bet it is used a lot on the circuits.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Mobil 1 15W-50 with a Mobil 1 Oil Filter
and
Amsoil Marine in the Outdrive

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Gotta keep us in the know about the Amsoil in your drive!!

Hows it werking? :D

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

where is a good ( easy) cross refrence web site for oil filters?

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Anyone use Royal Purple? Its easier for me to get than Amsoil

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

I put this together a while back..

Oil Filter f/ most Mercruisers
FYI:The thread type on the filter is 13/16-16.
Fram: PH5, HP4, DG5, PH13 (no anti drainback) Pureolator: L34631
Purolator Pure One: PL34631
AC: PF1218, PF932
Motorcraft: FL-12A
NAPA: 1060, 1060gold
Wix: 51060
Wix Racing: 51060R, 51061R R= Racing
K&N: HP3002
Baldwin: B1428 (Top Rated)
Amsoil: SDF-24
Hastings: LF279
Fleetguard: LF3679
Mercruiser: 35-802885Q
Mobil 1: M1-302 or M1-111
Kendall: K31
Penzoil: PZ45
Quaker State: QS5
Shell: S63, SH38
Texaco: T38, T38B
Warner: PH1218
STP: S01218
Valvoline: V056

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Here is the deal...

I know 4 guys using Royal Purple Gearmax and love it

3 who use Redline Shockproof Heavy and swear by it.

Several using Mobil-1 and getting great results.

A few using Amsoil who think it is "thinner" and gives an extra 1 mph.

Many who have a love/hate relationship with Merc HP.


The problem is I do not see any one product being the end all. I do like the seal conditioners in Amsoil's new product however more than the rest. It may keep seals intact better and longer and water out better too. That is a huge benefit as I see it.

So the bottom line is...in this department Mercury has a captured audience and HP is a great product.

To see a difference I would say any is a good pick but put a shower on if you don't have one. Showers will extend outdrive life more than anything else potentially could. "Underpropping a tad" will take a lot of load off the gears as well and if you can live with loosing 1-2 MPH then I would say do it. Extension boxes supposedly have a positive effect on drive longevity as well. Hitting the sticks hard takes it toll...put all this into place and the COMBINATION will improve your odds of having less probelms. Oh...keep the HP well within the limits of the drive...right :D

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Changing gear oils to a synthetic and picking up 1 MPH, Maybe in a small boat. Even a 22 footer needs about 20 HP to gain 1 MPH. Changing gear oils isn't going to "give back" 20 HP. Ken

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

I was thinking more along the lines of motor oil, but thus helps too

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Oh sorry...

Royall Purple Motor Oil are made of mostly Grade IV and Grade V synthetics. They do have a LOT of moly in them..."slick oils" ...

The hotrodders say you gain some HP form the reduced friction...then Teague says these type of synthetics cause flat-topping...

RP is a good product...it can behave wierd if gas gets in the oil Sterling says...

Redline has a ton of moly in it too.

Mobil-1 or Amsoil give me a better feeling. Better balance of additives in a strong base.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Can you queue me into what flat-topping is?

My main two concerns are:

1) protecting my flat tappet cam
2) water emusifying (protecting from internal corrosion/damage from moisture)

This is why I currently use Mercruiser oil. (and gearlube)

My boat will never see extended WOT runs of more than 5-10 minutes.

I could care less about a few lost or gain HP.

There is a well known auto racing speedshop (JR Motorsports) in my town, and they carry Royal Purple.

I know I apprieciate all this info, and I am sure others do to

Thanks

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

I see a lot throughout this post about various syn oils especially the HD 20/50 how many of you know there is something better! Even greater protection! I have been reading this post and more and am finally going over from Kendell GT1 20/50 to Spectro, check the link below and do your own research it may soon be the new up and comer.

http://www.spectro-oils.com/

Phil

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

I have never heard the term "flat tapping". Are you refering to the flatting of the rollers in a roller type cam? If you are, you do not have that worry. You state that you have a flat tappet cam and this type of cam does not have any rollers in the lifter. As far as the water emulsifying question, are you currently experiencing water in your oil? The oil would look like gray floor paint if enough water was present. All oils will "hold" some water in suspension before it starts to effect the quality and color of the oil. Hopefully by running your engine and getting everything hot this small amount of water will evaporate. This is why auto makes say short trips are hard on oil. Condensation will build up in the oil will stay in the oil unless the oil gets hot enough to flash off. 150 degrees of oil temp will accomplish this. Obviously the hotter the oil the faster the flash or evaporation. Mercury has started to spec in their oil, both engine and gear, with an emulsifier. This additives purpose is to hold more water in the oil to give a longer service life. These emulsifers are very polar, with one part being water soluble and another portion being oil soluble. I personally don't care how much longer the oil life is with water in it, I don't want it in my engine.
All modern day engine oils, be it synthetic or petroleum have very strong anti-rust packages. If I was you, only running WOT for very shor times I would run Spectro 4 20w50. It is a petroleum lubricant for motorcycles that has been uptreated in the anti-wear package. A very shear stable product with excellent stay in grade properties. After all if you purchased and poured in a 20w50, would't you like to drain out a 20w50? I hope this helped. Ken

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

I personally believe that 'roller skating' with synthetics is a pure myth. If synthetics were so slick (which they are not) to cause the rollers not to roll, there wouldn't be any wear anyway because there would be no friction!

I have an old Harley, and I remember this myth was spoken like gospel by HD dealers about synthetics when they arrived on the scene. Nowadays the HD dealers are pushing it as the end all be all, now that HD has a synthetic line of their own. The fundamental innards (roller everything) of the HD motor have not changed since conception!

I'm no expert on the matter, but from what I have gathered the advantage of synthetics is that they are much more stable, especially under high temps, and the base stocks are more resistant to breaking down.

I had issues with water in the oil this year, looks like bad stock manifolds. This will always be a concern with me, since afterall the motor is a boat motor. I have ordered Revolution exhaust w/the dry flange, and my cam is not too large that reversion should be an issue. But the chances are always there for water to find its way to the crankcase, wether it be a little reversion now and then, or by condensation. IF it does find its way in there, I like to know that the oil somewhat accommodates for it, and the Mercruiser oil does.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

If you are worried about water in the oil, a real quick test is to drop a couple of drops of the suspect oil into a hot pan. if water is present in the sample, the oil will skate and dance in the hot pan. If the oil just thins out, no water is present. Ken

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

What I am after is protection if the oil does get water in it. I have heard that certain synthetics and water do not get along at all, and I would like to avoid these oils at all costs.

I don't worry about this in cars, but they are not in the same enviroment as boats. There are a lot of potential sources for water getting into crankcase, some we can control, others we cannot.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

If a small amount of water from condensation is present in the oil then an oil with emulsifiers will "surround" the oil and form a "micro-slurry". If the water and oil repel (like vinegar and oil) then the water is left to make full contact with metal and form rust deposits.

An oil with more "anti-corrosion" protectants such as M-1 V-Twin or Amsoil Marine 15W-40 offer an EXTRA edge.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

FYI...I see Mobil-1 5W-50 is plentiful again on store shelves with a new label.."M-1 5W-40 Diesel and Truck".

This oil has great ZDDP leevel and the TBN is excellent. Probably the best product out there for trucks and suv's as well as diesel vehicles. Also great for sportscars.

Another tid bit...BMW cars and SUV's are now at 15,000 mile drains with Mobil-1 0W-40 to remain under warranty.

Porsche' and Benz are following as well.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

My BMW M Coupe is recommened for 15,000 miles using Mobil 1 10w-60. I never put 15,000/year so change out much before reaching that mileage.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Notice the upmark on a bottle of M-1 synthetic at an oil change senter?

It's way over priced...and they use crap fliters made in Mexico at most of them too.

To extend you need a good oil filter.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

JM,
A friend and I have been using 25W50 Royal Purple in our modified 575s with excellent results. You will like it.
I just changed all fluids last weekend, and am now using Amsoil 20W50. The boat seems like (may have been the conditions/ideal) it's a little faster/revs quicker with the Amsoil.
Steve

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

have a 496HO and was told moble1 was the best? if so what weight?

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

I change filters in between oil changes. I am using mobile 1 ep.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

15W-50 Mobil-1...an A/C filter works great and is reasonably priced...it's all you need unless you race.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

You can easilly go 50 hrs unless you race with 15w-50 M-1-EP.

Changing filters at 25-30 hrs and topping off is not a bad idea if you care to do it and maybe go 55-60 hrs. We have done UAo's on the recent most formulation and 50 hrs is very safe even with a few good runs.

Now WOT all day long is M-1 20W-50 V-Twin or Amsoil racing 20W-50 territory.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Is there a noticeable difference between v-twin and amsoil? I am running the amsoil lube in my drive and the price would be less for the amsoil because I paid the membership dues. But I would the extra if v-twin is better. Thanks.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Just changed to M-1 15 -50 EP in my 496 HO's at 150hrs. I was running Torco 20-50 Racing and had a little lower pressure on the port motor after a hard run. When I fired up with the M-1,the pressure went right to 40psi and stayed there (cold). Even when run up to 2K rpm it stayed at 40 until I put a load on the motors then it went to 60!

Ran it hard and had more pressure than with the Torco and no reduced pressure after a run in either motor. I am a believer!! Thanks HydroC!

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

I am glad Mobil added back the ZDDP into the 15W-50 realizing it is mostly for "offroad" use. ABout the only difference now is the cap used to be red.. and now it is gold.

It's also holding up very well in some uao's I saw in 525's that were run 50 hours...the TBN showed it had more abilty to keep going and the wear metals were almost zero.

May as well just use the A/C oil filter for $4.99 which is very good and then twins will be a $70.00 expense every 50 hrs. and you get maximum protection

It's better and less hassle than 25 hr changes with 40wt conventional Kendall..about $40/change...so the conventional is more $$.. :D

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

I wanted to report back after my switch to the M1 V-Twin. I'm running a mpi 5.0 SBC and was concerned about hot idle oil pressure. With the V-Twin, I've picked up 10# cold and about 5# hot. Maybe 2 or 3 # after a hard run. I'm running a NAPA gold (Wix) filter.

I still worry about fuel dilution (the oil still smells to me like gas) so I plan to do an oil analysis after about 25 hours.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Hydrocruiser, What can you tell me about an AC 932 oil filter? Is it performance marine worthy? It appears to be similar in size to the K&N 6002.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

MI-302 filter failure.

HC, I was out boating last weekend and saw my oil pressure drop about 10 psi.

Went home and did an oil change, when I took the old filter off I found that the internal metal screen had partially failed and collapsed toward the middle.

New filter and pressure is back, thank God.

Are you aware of an address/department where I can send the filter to EM for them to have a look at it?

This is the first issue I have had in over 30 M-1 filters.

Thanks

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Look back a few pages on this thread..Vandy is a big Mobil distributor...he can get the job done.

I have been lately not putting as much emphasis on going to M-1 filters as we have had a couple such problems.

It seem the really big motors need big flow and Fram Racing; Wix Racing; Baldwin and K&N do a better job at this.

Mobil also changed the design of this filter over the last year...just like they have changed oil formulations...we are trying to keep up with the changes.

The oils such as 15W-50 M-1 EP are now better than the previous RedCap...I am not sure what they did to their oil filters but the older ones had a more sophisticated bypass valve.

My advice...try K&N...many offshore racers use them.

That is why it is worth a minute now and then to keep your noses in this thread...things change! :D

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Thanks for the reply, looks like Vandy021 hasn't posted since April.

This was my last old style MI-302, installed a new style one. Will be taking a look at it every couple of trips. Probably will go with WIX racing same as we use on our race cars on the next change.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Wix racing makes a very tough filter case and bypass vlave. I am interested in seeing how the new Mobil-1 filters do.

I called Mobil today and they indicated they are being used in higher horsepower applications so they beefed 'em up.

Time will tell.

Re: Marine Lubrication
 

Hydro - could you rank the filters as you see them today? I am trying to decide between Wix and k&n filters. I plan to use Mobil v-twin. Thanks.